2016 Another Greek Summer
I have to admit it- I am an addict and so is Pete.
We are addicted to travel and Greece.......here's this year's Greek trip:
Week One: Brownhills, Dover, Remich, Breisach, Modena, Fano and Ferry
We picked up our new electric bikes ( an out of character extravagance!) and headed to Brownhills for an overnight before heading down to Dover. I sneaked in a little visit to Boundary Mill as I had never been and managed to come away with a linen dress. It was too big and too busy a place to hold my attention for more than an hour and I was anxious about some of the very senior generation's parking .....especially after one pulled out in front of us as if he couldn't see a blooming great white van. We had plenty of time to get to Dover so did the 'scenic tour' of Romney Marsh and Hythe, thinking about an ice cream on a beach, but we saw only hedges and a seagull. Dover and a pint called. We had an early ferry after a quiet night.
huge barge on the Mosel at Remich
The crossing was also quiet and we headed for Remich after missing our usual stop at Junction 16 for diesel and shopping because I was fiddling with the MP3 player. We stopped instead at junction 10 though height barriers were an issue so we parked by the garage. We had lunch in Aire de Amoudries . We stayed in the layby at Remich and we used the new Endless Breeze 12 volt fan which is really efficient. It was expensive but we can save the cost of a night on hook up and still keep cool. By the end of the trip, it had paid for itself.
Remich time is shopping time- up the hill for diesel , cheap gin and bread. Then on the motorway, we saw a terrible sight....a motorcyclist had been knocked off his bike, minutes ago and was lying in the road. We were waved past and people were there helping but neither of us think he had survived. We were very shaken up.
We had a nice drive over the Col du Bonhomme towards Kaysersberg and Colmar and after shopping and refuelling in Colmar, we carried onto Breisach. When we got there, the road was barred- there was an enormous flea market behind the stelplatz
and there were guys directing us where to park. We parked a bit awkwardly but the parking guys told us we could move when some of the stall holders finished. The next issue was the meter didn't work- I got the parking guy to ring the number displayed on the board as I had put money in. I also google translated a note for the windscreen instead of a ticket, just in case. It came in useful to show the parking guy when he came round. We had a walk round town and Pete uploaded his newspaper outside the closed tourist office.
It's easy to see why Viking river cruises stop here- it's a lovely place.
Next day we drove without incident to Bad Bellingen services and bought a vignette for Switzerland. There was a thirty minute queue for the Gotthard tunnel but good music passed the time and the scenery is wonderful. The problem came looking for Camper Club Mutina in Modena. We had been before but both sat navs decided to give up the ghost.....aaaargh...so I headed for signs to the autostrada south and found it without their help. It's a good stopping spot with showers, wifi etc for 14.50 euros. It was very hot but quiet.
We seemed to go through Italy quite quickly with music and got to the sosta at Sassonia, Fano in good time. The little hut where you pay has gone and there was no-one about to pay, but a guy came around later.. Pete went for a swim after we parked up at the back in the shade of some bamboo. There are no services here but there are services in the Fano town sosta if needed. We had a walk into the lovely old town and ate out. The local sparkling wine was delightful , the food good, but the service was poor. It cost 7 euros to stay on the sosta.
The next day was ferry day and we were in Ancona in less than an hour after driving past fields of sunflowers. I love this bit of the journey, it feels like we are getting close to Greece!
The ticket man at the toll was very smiley when I gave him some sweets- it's a boring job and my Mam gives sweets to bus drivers, shop assistants etc so I carry on the tradition.We checked in at the ticket office then went down to the ferry where we waited the usual forever. There is no rhyme or reason, it would seem to us, as to how you get put on but this time we were unlucky and not near a 'window' so not much daylight.
Pete got chatting to a Greek lorry driver who gave us a bottle of oil from his village and we gave him a bottle of English beer. We shared a plate of gyros, ( brought down to the camping deck from the upper deck by Pete who goes up with a piece of foil to cover the plate) with some salad . Pete convinced me that there was a deal on and if you bought gyros, you got a beer cheap so he enjoyed the beer and had a calm but hot crossing.
Week Two: Aginara
The ferry called in unexpectedly to Corfu which was a nice surprise.
I read books and Pete watched the islands go by. It didn't take too long to get off the boat and after a quick stock up in a very quiet Lidl, we were off along the New (!) National Road to Glyfa. I am always happy to go down the hill to Glyfa and Aginara camp site looking at the sparkling sea across to Zakynthos.
Kiki at the reception was so pleased to see us and after the usual, 'how are you?' type questions, the next question was ' what about Brexit?' This was a question we would hear many times and it would be discussed with all nationalities. It made me realise that Greeks discuss politics very often and most people are politically aware. I feel that it would be good if people in England were more concerned about how the country works than about who wins celebrity shows.
We got set up and went for the swim that I dream of in the winter.....and it didn't disappoint, The warm clear water seems to rid you of all the miles travelled and any anxieties except what to order for dinner and how many shooting stars we will see......
Kiki told us that there had been heavy rain so everything was green and flowery. We had a wander along to the next beach and Pete carried on exploring and looking for tortoises while I checked the sunbeds and brolly for shade...horizontally!
We got back to find the van in full sun- we usually park in a different place but decided on a change, but we hadn't worked out the sun position very well so we moved- better to be comfortable and tall eucalyptus trees gave greater shade.
The next day , the bikes had their first outing to Arkoudi, a nearby village. My bike took me a little while to get used to as there is no throttle but it drives off smoothly as soon as you push the pedals. The seat isn't a comfy as my old Powacycle Windsor but it certainly is a more powerful bike. We had a lovely coffee in the square and we were welcomed back...we have been coming here a long time! ( ten years)
Our love affair with Greece motorhoming started with camp Aginara and continues. The shower block has been revamped. We went up to the restaurant again for lovely home cooked food.
Another day we went for a cycle to Glyfa beach and had to stop to watch the sheep eating up the water melons in the field- some of them had completely pink faces.
Pete did a lone cycle for coffee up to Liggia then onto Kastro for shopping. It's a long uphill but worth it. I was busy making sure the sea was still there. A minor disaster struck when Pete didn't put the top back on the flask of tea I had taken down to the beach ( how very British!) and the cold tea leaked into the Greek phone and ended it's short life. ......
Well, then there was a resurrection! I put the phone overnight in Greek pasta that looks like rice ( kritheraki) and the moisture disappeared, the phone worked! We cycled to Arkoudi for a lovely meal and the first horta ( greens). We found out how good the bike lights are on the way back.....compared to our old bikes, these are like car headlights.
I cycled up to Liggia with Pete , but I got hot. I sat watching swallows in the cafe, cooling down ,then decided I would go back while Pete went on to Kastro.
Week Three: Aginara and Methoni
Well the days went by and we were too comfortable to move. The days were full (or not) of swimming, reading, doing jobs around the van. Pete asked me one day what I was going to do today. I said ' Nothing'......he said 'You did that yesterday' and I replied....'I know, I didn't finish it'.............
We had a fridge issue where there was an error code 13 so Pete contacted Thetford and it seems we needed another thermostat ( had one last year) but they wouldn't send it out to Greece even if we paid postage. They sent one home. The fridge works but the lights flash ( we covered them up) and you can't be sure of the temperature. One evening we took gin and tonics down to beach then went to the restaurant for rabbit stifado then came back to the beach bar to play backgammon and watch an enormous moon rising.
I had a brainwave- I found a Thetford dealer in Athens then rang Mary, our wonderful friend, and she is going to collect the thermostat for us.
I braved a trip to Kastro even though I thought it might hurt my knees but it was okay once I got going. We went to the butcher's and the baker's and at the greengrocer's, the lovely lady there gave me a big pot of her home made nectarine and peach jam. I think it was a thank you for Pete's custom but it was nice and I had a little conversation in Greek without me being too embarrassed .
We stopped at a cafe on the corner on the way down to Killini's baths and the views are stunning...I can't think why we haven't stopped there before, but stupidly, I didn't take the camera.
Pete decided to have a roof clean- very adventurous!
That cleaning signaled a need to move. We had been very settled but it was time to go. A restaurant meal of fantastic Imam ( stuffed aubergine) and bifteki was our last one after packing up ready to leave for Methoni.
Kiki also gave us a pot of the most delicious jam (vournela). We drove down to Zacharo and called at the bakery for spinach pie. We stocked up in Kalo Nero and had coffee in Agia Kyriaki where there is a little harbour and it was full of people swimming and having a good time. The cafe had amazing pieces of wood washed up by the sea as decorations.
We got to Methoni in the afternoon. We really like it here. Nandia on reception took us to get hooked up but we didn't fully pitch up as we had to go back to the water pump later because the water was off when we arrived. We met up with David, an English guy who we had first met in 2006 in the same place...where did the years go? We had a drink with him and his lovely French friend Jean Marie and they joined us later at o Nikos for great food and much laughing and silliness.
The next day, we met with Saint Mary of the Thermostat and Caterina . Mary and Nondas got the thermostat for us and brought it with them to Finikounda. We had two coffees- there was a lot of catching up to do, and then an exciting time in the 'everything' shop where this time, the shopkeeper didn't have everything, but we got some long screws in another shop to fix the wonky sunbed.
It was very hot so we had an afternoon in the shade of the tree. The camp site has a lovely beach cafe where we ate some lovely pork in the oven and a huge salad.
Week Four: Finikounda
The next day we drove the huge distance ...about ten kilometres ...to Camping Thines in Finikounda We had our usual lovely warm welcome from friends and 'family' at our summer 'home' . It takes a bit of wriggling to get into our space but it is so worth it. While we were on the beach, more friends arrived.....it's so nice to be part of such a great group of people.
We went to one of our favourite restaurant, Palamides, for papoutsakia ( stuffed aubergines) and another welcome.
Pete usually goes to the baker's on his bike most mornings and he did some bread deliveries for people here. We tried Kiki's jam- we couldn't find a translation except 'cherry plum' jam- it was great. More friends from Athens arrived. The site is getting full. We had a mega beach day, talking with friends on the beach till almost nine o clock. The best time on the beach is after four o clock and it gets really lovely nearer sunset. We had a good night in the bar playing a new card game with a big group.
A bike ride into town means a coffee stop- this time in Gardenia. Sitting watching the bay having a coffee is such a pleasure. We had an evening music session round at Maghi and Panos' caravan.
I love doing a big wash here- everything dries so fast and smells good. As a reward- we went out for pitta gyros after having aperol with Maria and Stefan.
It is tricky to go for a shower here- you set off but stop for a chat here and there and it takes a long time to have a quick shower, but time doesn't matter, people do.
Pete got up early to go fishing with Nondas, Panos and Babis so I had a leisurely morning. Pete caught two little fish- one inedible and one tiny one so it was lovely of Nondas to give Pete his fish for our dinner. Pete took gin and tonics to friends and Christina and Anna came for some pink fizzy,,,then Stefan and Maria came for some Mosel wine before they went out...we got round to cooking the fish about 11pm! Corinne and Geoff left and the cat who had kittens under their van carried the kittens and put them under our van. It is the same cat who put her kittens in our engine two years ago....how do they know who will tolerate them?
Week Five : Visitors!
We rented a car and drove up to Corinth to meet Tom and Dana, his girlfriend. They had been travelling from where they live in South Korea to England then Italy and Greece. We got to the station just as their train came in! We stopped in Petalidi for a nice lunch and a chance to get to know Dana who we hadn't met before. While they got settled in their room in the village we went back and the cat brought out the kittens to play. I put a box round the back for them as them kept falling off the water tank where the cat had put them.
Next day we took Tom and Dana to Koroni for a look around the castle and a drink sitting watching the sea. We had a nightmare drive getting out of Koroni as Pete took the little road but most of the traffic decided to come the other way and we squeaked through. I think I stopped breathing at one point.
Playing frisbee on the beach proved interesting as it flew into the river and disappeared and even though Tom went in, he couldn't find it. We went to Methoni castle for the sunset- it's a good place to watch it go into the sea. We went back to the campsite cafe for a meat pikilia- it's a nice place to sit and watch the lights of Methoni.
Polylimnio Waterfalls- somewhere we have never been, so on recommendation,we went together early . A walk down and a scramble up a rocky path brought us to an amazing place. It is so unexpected in a hot dry country to find these falls, cool and green. The shady trees give way to an open pool with lots of waterfalls.
There was only one family there and the guy had lost his prescription sunglasses in the pool but however hard Tom and Pete tried, they couldn't find them. Tom did his usual 'jump off a high place' after diving in to the cool water. We saw a freshwater crab .
We left as lots of people starting arriving and ate a spanakopita then went into Gialova for a drink before heading to Voidokilia to go for another swim on one of the world's best beaches . The almost circular white sandy beach was very busy but we had a good swim .
We couldn't resist calling into Pylos for ice cream at Kronos- a great cake shop.
We had a bit of a confused start to the evening as we had plans to take them to a panagyri ( festival) up in Xarokopio but as a group of us gathered to go, we got the news that it had been cancelled due to the death of one of the musicians who was to have played there. Instead, we went to Methoni to Sapienza- a restaurant where you go into the kitchen to choose food the family have made. It is always nice there.We ate with Marie and Felicie, as it was their last night before returning to France. When we got back we went to drink raki with more friends.
Tom had hurt his neck diving into the pool yesterday so only came along to the beach for a short while. Pete went out with Nondas on the boat trying to rescue a shipwrecked boat but it was too rough to do it. It didn't stop him and Nondas making a story up about finding 'packages' on the boat and rumours circulated the camp till Pete had to tell them the story wasn't true.
Tom and Dana came round for a beach day then Pete went with friends to the dance festival in the village- always good to watch. The kittens are getting under our feet a little bit but the plan is for them to go to Vaso's little farm when they get a bit older.
We had a wonderful afternoon session with Panos, Dimitris and Titina singing and playing music on the beach. There were lots of people all sat around drinking and talking and having a wonderful time as the sun went down. Maghi translated some of the old Greek songs so we understood a bit more. We had a wonderful mezze with Anna and Dimitris, Christina and Nikos and Jan and Lucy. We had some lovely food but best of all was the chat and the laughter.
The day of the volleyball competition! In the evening around six o clock, people gather on the beach to play volleyball. Everyone is welcome and lots of people sit and watch but today was the competition and it is very serious.
We went to To Stekis fo a last evening out with Tom and Dana in the seating area under the grape vines. We met up with friends for ice cream afterwards too.
Week Six: departures and arrivals
When you are on a campsite for a while, you see people coming and going. It's sad to say goodbye but lovely to say hello. Takis took us in his new truck up to Corinth to say goodbye to Dana and Tom who went back to England. We managed a sneaky Lidl shop too. While we were away, the kittens were taken up to the farm but they didn't take mother cat so we caught her and took her there to be with them. She wasn't very happy. The finals of the volley ball competition took place and it was very exciting. We all sat and watched and I loved that so many people were sitting on a lovely beach in the cool of the evening all having a good time.
Edith and Peter arrived from Germany. Angelos left . We went to have showers and it happened again! ...drinks at Stefan and Maria's with Dimitris and Anna.....great.
We had a wonderful evening out at Takis' farm when Dia and Dimitris took us there with almost forty others for a meal made by the family. It was fantastic. We felt really honoured to be invited. Panos, Titina and Dimitris played and sang and we sat talking and laughing feeling so happy to be part of it all. We also saw four shooting stars.
The band- Panos ,Titina and Dimitris played in the bar the next night and we had marvellous mojitos made by Mario. The cat carried all the kittens one by one back to our van! They made themselves at home in Pete's shoes.
Gabi and Gerd , our great Austrian friends arrived - so good to see them again. There were many arrivals all at once.
It's always interesting to talk to, and watch, the windsurfers- there's an air of expectancy when the forecast is for wind, then a scramble for kit and to get out on the waves. New this year to Thines is a place to hang sails which is such a good idea.
The annual boules 'competition' took place in our 'street' ...actually lots of people tried to play and it's good fun- especially when the kittens decide to try to play with the balls too. Bernhard and Uschi arrived after a three day drive from Munich.
We went with Dia and Dimitris up to Akritihori for the panagyri. We ate hot roast pork and bread and drank very cold beer. These festivals are a great occasion and this was no exception. There were hundreds of people sitting eating, drinking and talking on the football field while musicians played and singers sang on the stage. The organisation is astonishing- we even got little packets with salt and pepper . There were no tables left for us to sit at so we climbed onto the stands where people watch football and all sat there. We were joined by lots of people from the camp and we had a super night. Who says Greeks can't organise? This was brilliant!
Week Seven
Sadly, more friends left. Mary and Nondas went back to Athens and Jan, Honza and Lucy went back to Czech Republic, We went cycling with Gerd and Gabi in the hills above Finikounda.
I had another birthday. We celebrated it at Palamidi's where Theo arrived with cake! There was a bit of moving around the site as people left and their spaces were taken. We moved! Johann and Hilde left and we moved into the space at the front with help from lots of people. The cat and kittens moved too .
There was much discussion about a group of refugees who had been rescued from the other side of Sapienza- the island opposite Methoni. It was good to hear that many people are very supportive of the refugees . It makes me so angry that Britain just isn't helping very much, but also I feel humbled by the kindness shown by other people and other countries.
This pitch is cooler as there is more breeze and we sat about a bit enjoying the pitch and watching the kittens learning to climb.
We cycled along to camping Loutsa to see Corrinne and Geoff . It's nice there too.
We had some more fridge issues eventually finding out that if next door has air conditioning on, we lose power but we sorted it by changing where we plug in.
We had a fantastic evening with Greek friends up in Evangelismos where 25 adults and children all went to eat. We ordered everything from the 'starters' menu and we had loads of different things- some we had not tried before like baked feta with chili. Fotis the owner was great - when Panos, Titina and Dimitris played and sang, he kept food and drinks coming and we had a very modest bill. At almost 2 am we went back down to the camp.....fantastic night.
Sabine and Manfred arrived by plane - more people to talk to in our 'street'.
Week eight
Disaster! Thunder was rumbling and the skies went grey. The kittens disappeared ....it turned out that they had hidden in Herman's car engine. Martina found kitten Two who had dropped out near the camp entrance. Pete went looking for the kittens along the road to the restaurant and in the car engine without any luck.
We went to eat with Gabi and Gerd as it was daughter Stephanie and grandaughter Emilie's last night. I couldn't sleep worrying about the missing kittens though.
The next day I walked all over looking for the kittens. we had a lovely evening with Nikos, Christina, Aleko and Vivi.
Kitten One turned up! I was so happy but little kitten Three had been my favourite and never returned. The weather was a bit unsettled. Angelika and Axel came to visit and Corrinne and Geoff brought the boats back prior to their return.
Our wonderful friends Aris and Dimitris came! It is always so good to see them. We went to To Steki with them and had a good meal and lots of laughs.
Dia and Dimitris and Vicky left, Rikki and Gerd arrived from Austria and parked next to Norbert and Heide. We cycled to Methoni for lunch wth Aris and Dimitris- he is such a good cook.
Gerd, Gabi, Nikos and Christina all left. The international boules was played often with lots of different people trying to play for the first time.
The kittens can now get up the van step- we have to be careful not to step on them.
Week nine
The lady selling oranges came and we bought our usual bag. They are very good for juice. Norbert and Heide brought us some marmalade they had just made. We cycled to Methoni and had coffee and talked to an older Greek man about his family and how he had found some of his family in England. He was very interesting. Later, I was swimming and it started to rain- it's a strange sensation , swimming in the rain. Mother cat went in the box I'd put underneath the van for the kittens as the rain got heavier. Despina started cooking on Tuesdays and Fridays- something we look forward to as she cooks really lovely food at the campsite so we don't have far to go for a lovely evening.
Edit, Petros, Bernhard and Uschi left. I can't believe how fast the time goes.....
Theo borrowed my bike and went to Methoni with Pete. we had a treat at Palamidis as there were only four people left eating late so Nikos played some Pink Floyd for us.
Pete got inventive and made a cork on a string toy to keep the kittens amused- we have had lots of fun watching them growing .
Football season has started and Pete watches it with Theo.
We put the awning in as there was a storm forecast and it was a really bad one - the van rocked , the lightning was really bright and close and the rain was very heavy.
Week ten
The storm has changed the beach. The river is raging into the sea and the tree that has been under the sand for years with just a little bit sticking up was washed of sand and you can see all of it. For a time, you couldn't get along the beach as the river was too dangerous to cross. There was very bad flooding in Kalamata with some fatalities. Mary rang from Athens and we had lots of messages to check we were okay. Pete Yiannis and Theo went to 'rescue' the umbrella poles that , despite being set in concrete, had been uprooted. The awning stayed in for another day.
Bad weather doesn't last and the sun was back out and most things back to normal fairly quickly but the town beach has also changed shape. You can tell that it is September as the children are back at school and there is an influx of older British and German people in the village on package holidays.
Martina and Joshie left taking Ludwig their dog home. Some German children staying in a house along the road came to play with the kittens and they made a cat house for them with sticks. Theo and Pete ordered a set of boules for the campsite as Laurent had left and they still wanted to play. Axel , Angelika and their two friends came to eat with us and loved Despina's cooking.
We had a lovely surprise as Anna and Dimitris returned to collect a sail for their boat and they stayed overnight. We had such a good evening- we had missed them a lot. We all had breakfast together with Corrie and Geoff and Dimitris repaired the electric post near us. Pete had a sailing lesson with Geoff.
The parents of the German children came round to thank us for letting the children play - how nice. They are from Munich. The children's english was very good and the parents were pleased that the children had been speaking to us.
I am having some difficulties with my hips- usually here everything is fine.
Jane and Kerrigan arrived from England. we knew they were coming but it was still lovely to see them. They love it here too.
They told us about their adventures in India.
Week Eleven
We cycled to Methoni for coffee but were sad to see that the beach cafe outside the camp had completely gone- washed away in the storm. That is so sad as they were doing really well. You can still eat just inside the campsite but the beachside tables were very special because of the fabulous view.
Pete went to collect walnuts. We met Dimitra , Theo's girlfriend and had pizza with them- watching football of course.
We met Corrie and Geoff in Finikounda for coffee, we cycled, they sailed.
We went out for a meal on a showery evening and took refuge in the old phone box half way up the hill until the rain passed over. We wore waterproof coats for the first time ever here.
We visited Jane and Kerrigan in their lovely hotel before going out
with them.
Herman and Helga left and then there was great excitement because the new boules arrived!
Week twelve
I got a message from my sister to tell me that my mother had fallen and broken her little finger and her wrist and was in hospital. we spent a long time trying to arrange flights or ferries back home. I managed to talk to the nurse in the hospital and my sister went to Newcastle to be with Mam. There is a ferry strike so we can't get a boat yet.
We stocked up with more oranges from the lady who comes every week in her van...delicious juice.
The Run for home
Now it was our turn to say 'goodbye'. I don't like it and there were tears, but not mine, as I know we will be back. I think this is why we love the place- it's like having another home and another family in Greece.
We stopped in Kyparissia for coffee on the way to the ferry and in Lidl in Kalo Nero to stock up. We got the ferry and sat at the back watching the Rion Bridge fade.....not too sad this time. The boat was quiet and we watched an amazing sunset over Kefalonia.
Coldrerio
We don't usually stay in motorway services but Coldrerio in Switzerland feels safe and we do a big drive through Italy off the ferry to get a good start to the journey home.
Luneville
The lovely drive through Switzerland always amazes me.
We called into Colmar for diesel but decided not to stay in Kaysersburg but to push onwards. We stopped for lunch at the top of the Col du Bonhomme where it is possible to overnight. We stopped at Luneville - eight euros.It's a new stop for us but one we might use again. There's a neat little aire next to a chateau and park where we had a nice evening walk. The light through the windows of the chateau was amazing and worth going back to explore another time.
Stenay
We had showers in the fairly dated block but everything was clean and the showers were good. I had looked at several possible destinations for the night but then Pete realised there was a football match on so the plans changed to going somewhere with good internet so Stenay it was. We parked on the Capitainerie side of the river for a change. The we discovered that the game was last night! We went for a walk around town but there was nothing much happening and most places were closed...the most advertised event was a blood donation session!
Dover
We tootled along in the misty morning via Charlesville Mezieres, Cambrai, Maubauge and Valenciennes stopping for breakfast in a layby. We carried on to Lille , stocked with diesel at LeClerc at junction 16 and went to Dunkirk for the boat. We stayed overnight in Dover then got off early and had the usual busy road run for home.
Another lovely summer even if it had an abrupt end. Mam is now fine and her arm and finger are mended. We brought her down to stay with us so we could help her.
I have to admit it- I am an addict and so is Pete.
We are addicted to travel and Greece.......here's this year's Greek trip:
Week One: Brownhills, Dover, Remich, Breisach, Modena, Fano and Ferry
We picked up our new electric bikes ( an out of character extravagance!) and headed to Brownhills for an overnight before heading down to Dover. I sneaked in a little visit to Boundary Mill as I had never been and managed to come away with a linen dress. It was too big and too busy a place to hold my attention for more than an hour and I was anxious about some of the very senior generation's parking .....especially after one pulled out in front of us as if he couldn't see a blooming great white van. We had plenty of time to get to Dover so did the 'scenic tour' of Romney Marsh and Hythe, thinking about an ice cream on a beach, but we saw only hedges and a seagull. Dover and a pint called. We had an early ferry after a quiet night.
The crossing was also quiet and we headed for Remich after missing our usual stop at Junction 16 for diesel and shopping because I was fiddling with the MP3 player. We stopped instead at junction 10 though height barriers were an issue so we parked by the garage. We had lunch in Aire de Amoudries . We stayed in the layby at Remich and we used the new Endless Breeze 12 volt fan which is really efficient. It was expensive but we can save the cost of a night on hook up and still keep cool. By the end of the trip, it had paid for itself.
Remich time is shopping time- up the hill for diesel , cheap gin and bread. Then on the motorway, we saw a terrible sight....a motorcyclist had been knocked off his bike, minutes ago and was lying in the road. We were waved past and people were there helping but neither of us think he had survived. We were very shaken up.
We had a nice drive over the Col du Bonhomme towards Kaysersberg and Colmar and after shopping and refuelling in Colmar, we carried onto Breisach. When we got there, the road was barred- there was an enormous flea market behind the stelplatz
and there were guys directing us where to park. We parked a bit awkwardly but the parking guys told us we could move when some of the stall holders finished. The next issue was the meter didn't work- I got the parking guy to ring the number displayed on the board as I had put money in. I also google translated a note for the windscreen instead of a ticket, just in case. It came in useful to show the parking guy when he came round. We had a walk round town and Pete uploaded his newspaper outside the closed tourist office.
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| flea market |
It's easy to see why Viking river cruises stop here- it's a lovely place.
Next day we drove without incident to Bad Bellingen services and bought a vignette for Switzerland. There was a thirty minute queue for the Gotthard tunnel but good music passed the time and the scenery is wonderful. The problem came looking for Camper Club Mutina in Modena. We had been before but both sat navs decided to give up the ghost.....aaaargh...so I headed for signs to the autostrada south and found it without their help. It's a good stopping spot with showers, wifi etc for 14.50 euros. It was very hot but quiet.
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| Swiss scenic roads |
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| a well earned drink Camper Club Mutina Modena |
keeping the fridge shaded
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| Fano |
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| an evening stroll in Fano |
The next day was ferry day and we were in Ancona in less than an hour after driving past fields of sunflowers. I love this bit of the journey, it feels like we are getting close to Greece!
The ticket man at the toll was very smiley when I gave him some sweets- it's a boring job and my Mam gives sweets to bus drivers, shop assistants etc so I carry on the tradition.We checked in at the ticket office then went down to the ferry where we waited the usual forever. There is no rhyme or reason, it would seem to us, as to how you get put on but this time we were unlucky and not near a 'window' so not much daylight.
Pete got chatting to a Greek lorry driver who gave us a bottle of oil from his village and we gave him a bottle of English beer. We shared a plate of gyros, ( brought down to the camping deck from the upper deck by Pete who goes up with a piece of foil to cover the plate) with some salad . Pete convinced me that there was a deal on and if you bought gyros, you got a beer cheap so he enjoyed the beer and had a calm but hot crossing.
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| Ancona |
Week Two: Aginara
The ferry called in unexpectedly to Corfu which was a nice surprise.
I read books and Pete watched the islands go by. It didn't take too long to get off the boat and after a quick stock up in a very quiet Lidl, we were off along the New (!) National Road to Glyfa. I am always happy to go down the hill to Glyfa and Aginara camp site looking at the sparkling sea across to Zakynthos.
Kiki at the reception was so pleased to see us and after the usual, 'how are you?' type questions, the next question was ' what about Brexit?' This was a question we would hear many times and it would be discussed with all nationalities. It made me realise that Greeks discuss politics very often and most people are politically aware. I feel that it would be good if people in England were more concerned about how the country works than about who wins celebrity shows.
We got set up and went for the swim that I dream of in the winter.....and it didn't disappoint, The warm clear water seems to rid you of all the miles travelled and any anxieties except what to order for dinner and how many shooting stars we will see......
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| the first Greek beer |
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| it's tomato season |
We got back to find the van in full sun- we usually park in a different place but decided on a change, but we hadn't worked out the sun position very well so we moved- better to be comfortable and tall eucalyptus trees gave greater shade.
The next day , the bikes had their first outing to Arkoudi, a nearby village. My bike took me a little while to get used to as there is no throttle but it drives off smoothly as soon as you push the pedals. The seat isn't a comfy as my old Powacycle Windsor but it certainly is a more powerful bike. We had a lovely coffee in the square and we were welcomed back...we have been coming here a long time! ( ten years)
Our love affair with Greece motorhoming started with camp Aginara and continues. The shower block has been revamped. We went up to the restaurant again for lovely home cooked food.
Another day we went for a cycle to Glyfa beach and had to stop to watch the sheep eating up the water melons in the field- some of them had completely pink faces.
Pete did a lone cycle for coffee up to Liggia then onto Kastro for shopping. It's a long uphill but worth it. I was busy making sure the sea was still there. A minor disaster struck when Pete didn't put the top back on the flask of tea I had taken down to the beach ( how very British!) and the cold tea leaked into the Greek phone and ended it's short life. ......
Well, then there was a resurrection! I put the phone overnight in Greek pasta that looks like rice ( kritheraki) and the moisture disappeared, the phone worked! We cycled to Arkoudi for a lovely meal and the first horta ( greens). We found out how good the bike lights are on the way back.....compared to our old bikes, these are like car headlights.
I cycled up to Liggia with Pete , but I got hot. I sat watching swallows in the cafe, cooling down ,then decided I would go back while Pete went on to Kastro.
Week Three: Aginara and Methoni
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| Aginara beach |
We had a fridge issue where there was an error code 13 so Pete contacted Thetford and it seems we needed another thermostat ( had one last year) but they wouldn't send it out to Greece even if we paid postage. They sent one home. The fridge works but the lights flash ( we covered them up) and you can't be sure of the temperature. One evening we took gin and tonics down to beach then went to the restaurant for rabbit stifado then came back to the beach bar to play backgammon and watch an enormous moon rising.
I had a brainwave- I found a Thetford dealer in Athens then rang Mary, our wonderful friend, and she is going to collect the thermostat for us.
I braved a trip to Kastro even though I thought it might hurt my knees but it was okay once I got going. We went to the butcher's and the baker's and at the greengrocer's, the lovely lady there gave me a big pot of her home made nectarine and peach jam. I think it was a thank you for Pete's custom but it was nice and I had a little conversation in Greek without me being too embarrassed .
We stopped at a cafe on the corner on the way down to Killini's baths and the views are stunning...I can't think why we haven't stopped there before, but stupidly, I didn't take the camera.
Pete decided to have a roof clean- very adventurous!
That cleaning signaled a need to move. We had been very settled but it was time to go. A restaurant meal of fantastic Imam ( stuffed aubergine) and bifteki was our last one after packing up ready to leave for Methoni.
Kiki also gave us a pot of the most delicious jam (vournela). We drove down to Zacharo and called at the bakery for spinach pie. We stocked up in Kalo Nero and had coffee in Agia Kyriaki where there is a little harbour and it was full of people swimming and having a good time. The cafe had amazing pieces of wood washed up by the sea as decorations.
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| Methoni |
We got to Methoni in the afternoon. We really like it here. Nandia on reception took us to get hooked up but we didn't fully pitch up as we had to go back to the water pump later because the water was off when we arrived. We met up with David, an English guy who we had first met in 2006 in the same place...where did the years go? We had a drink with him and his lovely French friend Jean Marie and they joined us later at o Nikos for great food and much laughing and silliness.
The next day, we met with Saint Mary of the Thermostat and Caterina . Mary and Nondas got the thermostat for us and brought it with them to Finikounda. We had two coffees- there was a lot of catching up to do, and then an exciting time in the 'everything' shop where this time, the shopkeeper didn't have everything, but we got some long screws in another shop to fix the wonky sunbed.
Week Four: Finikounda
The next day we drove the huge distance ...about ten kilometres ...to Camping Thines in Finikounda We had our usual lovely warm welcome from friends and 'family' at our summer 'home' . It takes a bit of wriggling to get into our space but it is so worth it. While we were on the beach, more friends arrived.....it's so nice to be part of such a great group of people.
We went to one of our favourite restaurant, Palamides, for papoutsakia ( stuffed aubergines) and another welcome.
Pete usually goes to the baker's on his bike most mornings and he did some bread deliveries for people here. We tried Kiki's jam- we couldn't find a translation except 'cherry plum' jam- it was great. More friends from Athens arrived. The site is getting full. We had a mega beach day, talking with friends on the beach till almost nine o clock. The best time on the beach is after four o clock and it gets really lovely nearer sunset. We had a good night in the bar playing a new card game with a big group.
A bike ride into town means a coffee stop- this time in Gardenia. Sitting watching the bay having a coffee is such a pleasure. We had an evening music session round at Maghi and Panos' caravan.
I love doing a big wash here- everything dries so fast and smells good. As a reward- we went out for pitta gyros after having aperol with Maria and Stefan.
It is tricky to go for a shower here- you set off but stop for a chat here and there and it takes a long time to have a quick shower, but time doesn't matter, people do.
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| chart of my shower trips |
Pete got up early to go fishing with Nondas, Panos and Babis so I had a leisurely morning. Pete caught two little fish- one inedible and one tiny one so it was lovely of Nondas to give Pete his fish for our dinner. Pete took gin and tonics to friends and Christina and Anna came for some pink fizzy,,,then Stefan and Maria came for some Mosel wine before they went out...we got round to cooking the fish about 11pm! Corinne and Geoff left and the cat who had kittens under their van carried the kittens and put them under our van. It is the same cat who put her kittens in our engine two years ago....how do they know who will tolerate them?
Week Five : Visitors!
We rented a car and drove up to Corinth to meet Tom and Dana, his girlfriend. They had been travelling from where they live in South Korea to England then Italy and Greece. We got to the station just as their train came in! We stopped in Petalidi for a nice lunch and a chance to get to know Dana who we hadn't met before. While they got settled in their room in the village we went back and the cat brought out the kittens to play. I put a box round the back for them as them kept falling off the water tank where the cat had put them.
Next day we took Tom and Dana to Koroni for a look around the castle and a drink sitting watching the sea. We had a nightmare drive getting out of Koroni as Pete took the little road but most of the traffic decided to come the other way and we squeaked through. I think I stopped breathing at one point.
Playing frisbee on the beach proved interesting as it flew into the river and disappeared and even though Tom went in, he couldn't find it. We went to Methoni castle for the sunset- it's a good place to watch it go into the sea. We went back to the campsite cafe for a meat pikilia- it's a nice place to sit and watch the lights of Methoni.
Polylimnio Waterfalls- somewhere we have never been, so on recommendation,we went together early . A walk down and a scramble up a rocky path brought us to an amazing place. It is so unexpected in a hot dry country to find these falls, cool and green. The shady trees give way to an open pool with lots of waterfalls.
There was only one family there and the guy had lost his prescription sunglasses in the pool but however hard Tom and Pete tried, they couldn't find them. Tom did his usual 'jump off a high place' after diving in to the cool water. We saw a freshwater crab .
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| Tom doing his usual jump off anything high |
We left as lots of people starting arriving and ate a spanakopita then went into Gialova for a drink before heading to Voidokilia to go for another swim on one of the world's best beaches . The almost circular white sandy beach was very busy but we had a good swim .
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| Gialova- Navarino Bay |
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| Voidokilia |
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We couldn't resist calling into Pylos for ice cream at Kronos- a great cake shop.
We had a bit of a confused start to the evening as we had plans to take them to a panagyri ( festival) up in Xarokopio but as a group of us gathered to go, we got the news that it had been cancelled due to the death of one of the musicians who was to have played there. Instead, we went to Methoni to Sapienza- a restaurant where you go into the kitchen to choose food the family have made. It is always nice there.We ate with Marie and Felicie, as it was their last night before returning to France. When we got back we went to drink raki with more friends.
Tom had hurt his neck diving into the pool yesterday so only came along to the beach for a short while. Pete went out with Nondas on the boat trying to rescue a shipwrecked boat but it was too rough to do it. It didn't stop him and Nondas making a story up about finding 'packages' on the boat and rumours circulated the camp till Pete had to tell them the story wasn't true.
Tom and Dana came round for a beach day then Pete went with friends to the dance festival in the village- always good to watch. The kittens are getting under our feet a little bit but the plan is for them to go to Vaso's little farm when they get a bit older.
We had a wonderful afternoon session with Panos, Dimitris and Titina singing and playing music on the beach. There were lots of people all sat around drinking and talking and having a wonderful time as the sun went down. Maghi translated some of the old Greek songs so we understood a bit more. We had a wonderful mezze with Anna and Dimitris, Christina and Nikos and Jan and Lucy. We had some lovely food but best of all was the chat and the laughter.
The day of the volleyball competition! In the evening around six o clock, people gather on the beach to play volleyball. Everyone is welcome and lots of people sit and watch but today was the competition and it is very serious.
We went to To Stekis fo a last evening out with Tom and Dana in the seating area under the grape vines. We met up with friends for ice cream afterwards too.
Week Six: departures and arrivals
When you are on a campsite for a while, you see people coming and going. It's sad to say goodbye but lovely to say hello. Takis took us in his new truck up to Corinth to say goodbye to Dana and Tom who went back to England. We managed a sneaky Lidl shop too. While we were away, the kittens were taken up to the farm but they didn't take mother cat so we caught her and took her there to be with them. She wasn't very happy. The finals of the volley ball competition took place and it was very exciting. We all sat and watched and I loved that so many people were sitting on a lovely beach in the cool of the evening all having a good time.
Edith and Peter arrived from Germany. Angelos left . We went to have showers and it happened again! ...drinks at Stefan and Maria's with Dimitris and Anna.....great.
We had a wonderful evening out at Takis' farm when Dia and Dimitris took us there with almost forty others for a meal made by the family. It was fantastic. We felt really honoured to be invited. Panos, Titina and Dimitris played and sang and we sat talking and laughing feeling so happy to be part of it all. We also saw four shooting stars.
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| at the farm- fab food and music above Finikounda |
The band- Panos ,Titina and Dimitris played in the bar the next night and we had marvellous mojitos made by Mario. The cat carried all the kittens one by one back to our van! They made themselves at home in Pete's shoes.
Gabi and Gerd , our great Austrian friends arrived - so good to see them again. There were many arrivals all at once.
It's always interesting to talk to, and watch, the windsurfers- there's an air of expectancy when the forecast is for wind, then a scramble for kit and to get out on the waves. New this year to Thines is a place to hang sails which is such a good idea.
The annual boules 'competition' took place in our 'street' ...actually lots of people tried to play and it's good fun- especially when the kittens decide to try to play with the balls too. Bernhard and Uschi arrived after a three day drive from Munich.
We went with Dia and Dimitris up to Akritihori for the panagyri. We ate hot roast pork and bread and drank very cold beer. These festivals are a great occasion and this was no exception. There were hundreds of people sitting eating, drinking and talking on the football field while musicians played and singers sang on the stage. The organisation is astonishing- we even got little packets with salt and pepper . There were no tables left for us to sit at so we climbed onto the stands where people watch football and all sat there. We were joined by lots of people from the camp and we had a super night. Who says Greeks can't organise? This was brilliant!
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| Party time! Camping Thines goes to Akritohori. |
Sadly, more friends left. Mary and Nondas went back to Athens and Jan, Honza and Lucy went back to Czech Republic, We went cycling with Gerd and Gabi in the hills above Finikounda.
I had another birthday. We celebrated it at Palamidi's where Theo arrived with cake! There was a bit of moving around the site as people left and their spaces were taken. We moved! Johann and Hilde left and we moved into the space at the front with help from lots of people. The cat and kittens moved too .
There was much discussion about a group of refugees who had been rescued from the other side of Sapienza- the island opposite Methoni. It was good to hear that many people are very supportive of the refugees . It makes me so angry that Britain just isn't helping very much, but also I feel humbled by the kindness shown by other people and other countries.
This pitch is cooler as there is more breeze and we sat about a bit enjoying the pitch and watching the kittens learning to climb.
We cycled along to camping Loutsa to see Corrinne and Geoff . It's nice there too.
We had some more fridge issues eventually finding out that if next door has air conditioning on, we lose power but we sorted it by changing where we plug in.
We had a fantastic evening with Greek friends up in Evangelismos where 25 adults and children all went to eat. We ordered everything from the 'starters' menu and we had loads of different things- some we had not tried before like baked feta with chili. Fotis the owner was great - when Panos, Titina and Dimitris played and sang, he kept food and drinks coming and we had a very modest bill. At almost 2 am we went back down to the camp.....fantastic night.
Sabine and Manfred arrived by plane - more people to talk to in our 'street'.
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| Aris and Dimitris |
Week eight
Disaster! Thunder was rumbling and the skies went grey. The kittens disappeared ....it turned out that they had hidden in Herman's car engine. Martina found kitten Two who had dropped out near the camp entrance. Pete went looking for the kittens along the road to the restaurant and in the car engine without any luck.
We went to eat with Gabi and Gerd as it was daughter Stephanie and grandaughter Emilie's last night. I couldn't sleep worrying about the missing kittens though.
The next day I walked all over looking for the kittens. we had a lovely evening with Nikos, Christina, Aleko and Vivi.
Kitten One turned up! I was so happy but little kitten Three had been my favourite and never returned. The weather was a bit unsettled. Angelika and Axel came to visit and Corrinne and Geoff brought the boats back prior to their return.
Our wonderful friends Aris and Dimitris came! It is always so good to see them. We went to To Steki with them and had a good meal and lots of laughs.
Dia and Dimitris and Vicky left, Rikki and Gerd arrived from Austria and parked next to Norbert and Heide. We cycled to Methoni for lunch wth Aris and Dimitris- he is such a good cook.
Gerd, Gabi, Nikos and Christina all left. The international boules was played often with lots of different people trying to play for the first time.
The kittens can now get up the van step- we have to be careful not to step on them.
Week nine
The lady selling oranges came and we bought our usual bag. They are very good for juice. Norbert and Heide brought us some marmalade they had just made. We cycled to Methoni and had coffee and talked to an older Greek man about his family and how he had found some of his family in England. He was very interesting. Later, I was swimming and it started to rain- it's a strange sensation , swimming in the rain. Mother cat went in the box I'd put underneath the van for the kittens as the rain got heavier. Despina started cooking on Tuesdays and Fridays- something we look forward to as she cooks really lovely food at the campsite so we don't have far to go for a lovely evening.
Edit, Petros, Bernhard and Uschi left. I can't believe how fast the time goes.....
Theo borrowed my bike and went to Methoni with Pete. we had a treat at Palamidis as there were only four people left eating late so Nikos played some Pink Floyd for us.
Pete got inventive and made a cork on a string toy to keep the kittens amused- we have had lots of fun watching them growing .
Football season has started and Pete watches it with Theo.
We put the awning in as there was a storm forecast and it was a really bad one - the van rocked , the lightning was really bright and close and the rain was very heavy.
Week ten
The storm has changed the beach. The river is raging into the sea and the tree that has been under the sand for years with just a little bit sticking up was washed of sand and you can see all of it. For a time, you couldn't get along the beach as the river was too dangerous to cross. There was very bad flooding in Kalamata with some fatalities. Mary rang from Athens and we had lots of messages to check we were okay. Pete Yiannis and Theo went to 'rescue' the umbrella poles that , despite being set in concrete, had been uprooted. The awning stayed in for another day. Bad weather doesn't last and the sun was back out and most things back to normal fairly quickly but the town beach has also changed shape. You can tell that it is September as the children are back at school and there is an influx of older British and German people in the village on package holidays.
Martina and Joshie left taking Ludwig their dog home. Some German children staying in a house along the road came to play with the kittens and they made a cat house for them with sticks. Theo and Pete ordered a set of boules for the campsite as Laurent had left and they still wanted to play. Axel , Angelika and their two friends came to eat with us and loved Despina's cooking.
We had a lovely surprise as Anna and Dimitris returned to collect a sail for their boat and they stayed overnight. We had such a good evening- we had missed them a lot. We all had breakfast together with Corrie and Geoff and Dimitris repaired the electric post near us. Pete had a sailing lesson with Geoff.
The parents of the German children came round to thank us for letting the children play - how nice. They are from Munich. The children's english was very good and the parents were pleased that the children had been speaking to us.
I am having some difficulties with my hips- usually here everything is fine.
Jane and Kerrigan arrived from England. we knew they were coming but it was still lovely to see them. They love it here too.
They told us about their adventures in India.
Week Eleven
We cycled to Methoni for coffee but were sad to see that the beach cafe outside the camp had completely gone- washed away in the storm. That is so sad as they were doing really well. You can still eat just inside the campsite but the beachside tables were very special because of the fabulous view.
Pete went to collect walnuts. We met Dimitra , Theo's girlfriend and had pizza with them- watching football of course.
We met Corrie and Geoff in Finikounda for coffee, we cycled, they sailed.
We went out for a meal on a showery evening and took refuge in the old phone box half way up the hill until the rain passed over. We wore waterproof coats for the first time ever here.
We visited Jane and Kerrigan in their lovely hotel before going out
with them.
Herman and Helga left and then there was great excitement because the new boules arrived!
Week twelve
I got a message from my sister to tell me that my mother had fallen and broken her little finger and her wrist and was in hospital. we spent a long time trying to arrange flights or ferries back home. I managed to talk to the nurse in the hospital and my sister went to Newcastle to be with Mam. There is a ferry strike so we can't get a boat yet.
We stocked up with more oranges from the lady who comes every week in her van...delicious juice.
The Run for home
Now it was our turn to say 'goodbye'. I don't like it and there were tears, but not mine, as I know we will be back. I think this is why we love the place- it's like having another home and another family in Greece.
We stopped in Kyparissia for coffee on the way to the ferry and in Lidl in Kalo Nero to stock up. We got the ferry and sat at the back watching the Rion Bridge fade.....not too sad this time. The boat was quiet and we watched an amazing sunset over Kefalonia.
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| just a bit windswept! |
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| Goodbye Greece |
Coldrerio
We don't usually stay in motorway services but Coldrerio in Switzerland feels safe and we do a big drive through Italy off the ferry to get a good start to the journey home.
Luneville
The lovely drive through Switzerland always amazes me.
We called into Colmar for diesel but decided not to stay in Kaysersburg but to push onwards. We stopped for lunch at the top of the Col du Bonhomme where it is possible to overnight. We stopped at Luneville - eight euros.It's a new stop for us but one we might use again. There's a neat little aire next to a chateau and park where we had a nice evening walk. The light through the windows of the chateau was amazing and worth going back to explore another time.
Stenay
We had showers in the fairly dated block but everything was clean and the showers were good. I had looked at several possible destinations for the night but then Pete realised there was a football match on so the plans changed to going somewhere with good internet so Stenay it was. We parked on the Capitainerie side of the river for a change. The we discovered that the game was last night! We went for a walk around town but there was nothing much happening and most places were closed...the most advertised event was a blood donation session!
Dover
We tootled along in the misty morning via Charlesville Mezieres, Cambrai, Maubauge and Valenciennes stopping for breakfast in a layby. We carried on to Lille , stocked with diesel at LeClerc at junction 16 and went to Dunkirk for the boat. We stayed overnight in Dover then got off early and had the usual busy road run for home.
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| oh no! The last Greek tomato |
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| poor wet cyclists-I gave them some sweets but surely there's a better method of boarding for cyclists? |
Another lovely summer even if it had an abrupt end. Mam is now fine and her arm and finger are mended. We brought her down to stay with us so we could help her.
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| Dover |
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