Corinth-onwards

Day 30 Camperstop Afrodites Waters, Corinth

I thought it would be really tricky getting out of Athens but we seemed to hit a lull in the traffic so it was okay. Driving along the road to Corinth we saw a big black pig dead in the middle of the road.

Pete’s memory played tricks with him- he wanted to go over the bridge over the Corinth canal and he thought it was at the top of the canal so I directed him that way and we ended up in Loutraki. 

We stopped where a waterfall comes out of the hillside under some trees, had a walk into the town for a coffee by the sea and wondered if we’d come to Greece’s answer to Eastbourne- there were so many old ladies walking about. The café had the most fantastic loos- automatic lighting, spotlessly clean, flowers and all high tech stuff but when I was on the loo the lights went out – I had to open the door a little to get them on and the same thing happened to Pete. After getting some lovely fruit and veg, we drove back the way we’d come and found the bridge. The canal is  an amazing feat of engineering and I was overwhelmed by the size of it. Clearly  other people aren’t as when we sitting having a souvlaki next to the bridge , a couple came over, asked if we spoke English, then said ‘ Is that all there is to the canal?’ I wasn’t really sure what to answer if they were so underwhelmed by the amazing achievement that saved 131 nautical miles for ships, the sheer size of it, the beauty of the colour of the water……so I went back to my wonderful souvlaki.

We went back to the Camperstop and Vassilis came over straight away with a bunch of grapes and they were so pleased to see us again. We talked to a Spanish family who’d been to Scotland and later to two young Greek girls who turned up with a tent. Fotini and Vassilis had gone out and they  had no transport and there was nowhere to put a tent up. I asked if I could help but then the family came back and they put their tent up on the drive under a tree and gave the girls some chairs. We went up into the village for souvla and the waiter was an American Greek who lives not far from my cousins in Mission Viejo in California, who comes to Corinth every summer. When we  got back to the camperstop , Spyros, Vassilis’ son invited us over to eat some fruit but I declined as we weer too full of dinner and watermelon to eat any thing else- we should have gone though as it’s so kind of them to take us into the family and I regretted it afterwards.

Day 31 Camperstop Corinth

We decided to stay another night, it’s so comfortable and we could spend more time looking round Ancient Corinth. It’s an amazing place too- so much to see. We went in the museum and saw the archaeologists at work and when Pete went on his usual exploration, I sat under a tree and watched a hoopoe. This bird is about the size of a jay and I’d never seen one sit still for so long. When we got back to the camp, Fotini brought us some courgettes, aubergines and peppers that she’d picked in her garden that morning- so kind. We did internet stuff and jobs and had a sit about. We noticed the girls were still there but their tent was now under the front porch of the house. We went to Marino’s for dinner and had lovely food on a balcony where we could see the sea and the lights round the bay. I saw a Skops owl sitting on an ancient building but for a  change didn’t have my camera …I’m sure it laughed at me!

Day 32 Camping Lido Tolo

Acro Corinth

We got up early and took some English beer and biscuits over for the family and the children gave us a stone painted with Ancient Corinth on that they’d done to remind us of our stay. Such hospitality! We drove up the mountain to Acro Corinth passing two cyclists who had paused on the way up. It was a twisty road and we were surprised to see the cyclists arrive not long after us so we had a chat- they were  Swiss and had electric bikes! The site was free to get in and we had a chat with the guy on the gate about Greece, the economy, politics- it took me all my time to prise Pete away. It was rocky , uneven and steep to go up but the views are absolutely stunning. It’s almost unbelievable that people could build such a place at such a height. 


I wandered around on my own while Pete did mountain goating round the walls taking photos.  I was concerned about getting down so made my way slowly down resting often and as I was sitting under a tree, a party of teenagers arrived – I couldn’t work out the nationality but eastern European- they all headed off eagerly except two who sat next to me, one got his ipad out and the other got his mobile phone out and didn’t even look at the view! Oh well, I hope they don’t regret missing it later.

From there we drove to Mykines where it was really busy and the car park was packed. My hips were hurting a lot after Corinth but I managed to go the museum which was fascinating and then go slowly round the site while Pete did a quick  look round on his own. I couldn’t believe I was seeing the Lion gate that I’d only seen pictures of before . There were so many incredible Mycenaean artefacts in the museum – too much to take in at once I felt. Pete couldn’t help exclaiming over the size of the stones they used to build the walls there…..once again, he was so happy. I think he ought to take an archaeology course.

 We drove to Tolo to stay for a few days, pulled into Camping Sunset but reversed out as the trees looked too low and went into Camping Lido. We didn’t really like the site but parked up and went across to the beach. Our hearts sank. I don’t know what we’d expected but serried rows of brollies and sunbeds and loads of people on a narrow strip of  beach  wasn’t what we had in mind for a quiet few days. We had a swim, then went off on the bikes in search of another campsite. We looked at Triton 11 at Drepano and the sites alongside it but again there were loads of people and we didn’t like the feel of the place. We went down another lane to Assini Beach and the campsite guy there showed us a pitch we could have. It looked okay so we had a drink at the bar and thought we’d go there the next day. As we set off, Pete found he had a flat tyre and no pump so I cycled back to get the pump and noticed signs for Camping Kastraki that I hadn’t seen the first time. We got the tyre blown up and called in at the  campsite and had a look around. This was much more like us- tall pine trees, an airy feel and good facilities. We booked a space to return to and cycled back.  We needed some tomatoes and beer so I cycled into Tolo and went to a shop. I’d done 11 miles- quite enough for me so we had something to eat and had an early night after I got bitten twice in a few minutes sitting outside.

32 Camping Kastraki , Ancient Assini near Tolo

I paid the 29 euros for the site and we left after asking where there was a cycle repair shop. Luckily there’s one in Drepano. We couldn’t go on the pitch we’d looked at as it was soft sand but we found another. I did a big wash and after fresh bread and coffee, we got online and I chatted to our Tom in Korea. We went to the pebble beach which had the cliffs and walls of Ancient Assini ( and Cyclopean stones) at the end of it, a rocky bar in the sea which makes the shallows safe for children, a jetty so you can jump off and warm clear water. We then tried to set off for the bike shop but the tyre wouldn’t hold air at all so Pete did a puncture repair. He cooked chicken with the courgettes and aubergines we’d been given and it was a lovely meal. He wan’t really impressed that you needed 20 lepta to put in to get a shower though. It was a cool quiet night and I like it.

33 Camping Kastraki Ancient Assini

We went to Drepano and found the bike shop where 13 euros got Pete a new tyre, inner tube and his saddle fixed- a bargain. We sat in the square with the old guys and had coffee. Pete was so pleased with his bike repair , he went to the bakery and bought a huge spanakopita – a whirly one and it was gorgeous. We bought local sausage at the butcher’s and narrowly avoided getting soaked by the butcher’s children squirting water pistols outside- they were having good fun! When we got back we walked round Ancient Assini- Pete again going as high as he could and marvelling once again at the size of the ancient stones. I got a bit glum wandering round the bottom thinking how nice it would be to go with him and went back intot he camp to read. Pete cooked the meat and I made briam with the rest of the vegetables. We finished a set of backgammon and I won! I have to write this down as it’s happened only twice in 20 years!

Tolo from Ancient Assini

Camping Kastraki in the trees

34 Camping Kastraki

We went for a very long swim in sea was like an undisturbed swimming pool and about the same colour- wonderful. We then cycled into Tolo  for a look around and stopped for coffee at a café with a lovely view . We had another swim- in the afternoon the wind gets up and the sea is very bouncy and then it came…….you never know when it’s going to come but the Decision came…we’re going to move tomorrow. We had a nice veggie tea and Pete watched football on a very iffy internet

Connection that kept cutting out .

35 Glyfada Taverna, Shipwreck beach between Skala and Gythio

Elonas Monastery above left.

Glyfada Taverna near Skal

The drive through Mili  to Leonidio was really scenic along the coast road, winding up and down past little seaside towns and coves which looked beautiful. We stopped for coffee above a cove and the sea looked fantastic- so calm and blue. Leonidio was interesting to negotiate, i.e. pick the most unlikely looking  narrow road between two houses and yes, that’s the main road. Once out, the scenery was dramatic- we went up a gorge where the mountains rose up steeply. We stopped at a pull in next to a dried up river bed and looking up we saw Elonas monastery clinging to the mountainside- how did they ever build it? We carried on up the steeply winding road to Kosmas where we had to go round to the right in the village square where the whole town ‘s inhabitants appeared to be having coffee under a huge plane tree. Of course we couldn’t quite get round the corner so a bit of reversing was required. Further up round a narrow bend we met  a French campervan coming the other way. We’d nowhere to go and Pete pulled in as close as he could to a tree and the French guy’s son and a driver behind us helped direct operations but it was a matter of millimetres to spare to get past. The road went up and up and the scenery was stunning but it was quite a relief to get down to Skala at the other side of the mountains. We turned left down  into Glyfada taverna before Gythio  where we parked on hard packed sand with four other campers for the night. We had dinner in the taverna and it was lovely but a mozzie undetected under the table ate my ankle for it’s dinner too….ouch!

36  Monemvassia,  Elefonnisos and back- ferry beach

We had a quiet night and drove past Skala to Lidl to shop and got blocked in by a woman who Pete asked not to park there- she gave him a look and said ‘ a few minutes’ in Greek and scarpered! She was ages and we managed to get out when a van moved. Pete was not impressed. We had a lovel drive to Monemvassia where we parked by the sea and walked to the town across the causeway. We hadn’t realised there was a bus up to it till it passed us, neither did we realise it was quite so far to walk. It was very hot but so worth the walk when you get there. I wasn’t prepared for the magnificence of the place or quite how upmarket it is…..very chic shops and cafes. It’s wonderful and much bigger than I thought. The tiny streets have bevelled corners on the houses to allow pack animals to pass easily. It’s a paradise for hide and seek players- as I found out trying to find the central square in the lower town where I said I’d meet Pete after he’d scampered round. We did find each other  and walked back down the hill for a well earned beer. 

We then went looking for Camping Paradise and didn’t find it so we headed  for Neapoli and the ferry to Elefonissos. So many people had told us about how wonderful it is the ( the Greek Maldives as it’s been called) I had bad feelings about going as I thought I was bound to be disappointed. We got to the ferry just in time as one was leaving. It cost 23.50 euros to cross for a 15 min ride over turquoise water. We went to small Simos first but couldn’t find anywhere to park- it was so busy. Then we tried big Simos but there’s a campsite there that we didn’t like the look of and again nowhere to park. We went to the other side of the island but again, nowhere to park. I had a headache and was feeling a bit anxious so we parked by the side of the road and I had a sleep and Pete had a swim. We decided to go back to the ferry and Pete had to reverse on! 

ferry to Elafonnisos

towards Simos beach

He did so well with the boat guy getting his left and right mixed up and me screaming ‘Stop!’ from the back of the van as we got so close to other vehicles under his direction. As we were crossing we saw several campervans parked on a beach near the ferry so we took the second right and came to it. We had a sunset swim and it was lovely. We had a peaceful night there .

Penistone to the Peloponnese - again 4

Day 24  Karathona Beach, Napflion

We drove the Kalamata/Tripoli road on the old road. We stopped above Megalopoli where there is a monument to people who gave their lives in the war 1944. The road and the view looked a bit like standing on Mam Tor looking down at Castleton- really ! The road is slipping away and you can see a big cement works. We had lunch there.

I missed a turn in Tripoli which meant a lovely three point turn  from Pete while I stopped the traffic ( very embarrassing but it was okay) We followed a scenic route with lots of hairpins down to Mili where Pete had camped in the 70s then along into the port at Napflion. We parked there and went for a walk round the lovely town streets with steps leading up to the castle. However an Olympiakos fan had graffitied ‘gate 7’ everywhere and it made it look so scruffy. It was too hot to be tempted to go up to the castle .

We thought we ought to check out Karathona Beach to park overnight as an alternative to the port and it was signposted so we found it easily. It’s a big bay with beach bars at one end and a hardly started holiday village at the other where we parked under eucalyptus trees and had a swim in warm water. There were five other vans there so we stayed. People came to the beach to have swims and picnics till after dark.

Day 25 Karathona Beach

We got ‘ mozzied’ in the night though we’d had a burner coil on earlier. There  was a flat calm sea

And we cycled along the cliff path into Napflion- 2.2 miles by a beautiful sea on one side and cliffs and trees on the other. There are a couple of places to swim from- little pebble areas. We had to lift the bikes over a low barrier at the Napflion end but it was the best bike ride I’ve ever done. We went down past the Palace walls , parked by a square and went for coffee in the old railway station. We bought local bread and hoummus and cycled back. We went for a swim  then sat reading and watching people. We cycled then to the other end of the bay to take sunset photos, past the beach bars and the no camping signs. It’s possible to use the showers and loos there though. It got hot later as there was no breeze and one of the beach bars played loud music till late. It’s a good place to stop apart from that. Pete did a Good Samaratin bit when I noticed that a priest had got his car grounded on a tree root so off he went to assist armed with leveling ramps etc. A German guy with a jack also assisted and a happy chappy got his car cleared just before his fireman friend arrived.

Day 26 Ancient Corinth via Epidavros/ Achea Epidavros

We woke up early and headed for Epidavros. We passed a Mycean bridge, just by the road so had to stop to take a photo. ( 6000 year old bridge!)

 We got to the almost empty car park at Epidavros and parked in the shade. The Theatre is awesome!!!! I’d seen lots of pictures but hadn’t got  the scale of it at all. I glimpsed it through the trees after paying 6 euros to go in and was amazed. The actual stage had a set on it as Kevin Spacey was doing a play there later. We had a shady quiet walk around the site and the museum and still I couldn’t get over the majesty of the construction and the amazing acoustics. We watched in total fascination an archaeologist painstakingly measuring as  a workman lowered one stone onto another using a tripod. We seemed to stumble into a work area where pile sof stone and columns were waiting to be sorted and moved………so much work for people to do.

Returning the van after a really good look round, we had bread and marmite (!) and coffee and talked about what we’d seen. We’d had a super time there. We set off for Achea Epidavros , followed signs and turned along a road to Camping Nicolas and carried on to a tiny beach and café. The owner parked us up close to his bar and we had a drink.

We were going to swim there but I felt uncomfortable for other people seeing this big van next to the café spoiling the view so we went into the little town port, parked there and cycled along for a swim. We didn’t feel like parking there overnight so we headed for Corinth. The drive there is quite scenic.  We parked down by Isthmia by a small beach after looking at the bottom end of the canal. We sat about and has swims and watched a gypsy extended family arrive ( 22- 9 adults, 13 kids) who put down mats on the pavement and all the children went in the water. At one point, some of the adults were engrossed in burying one of the children in sand and didn’t see one little one face down in the shallows………the grandma saw and screamed and the whole beach seemed to hold it’s breath till the little one breathed too. Almost a tragedy..........

They then carried on swimming and playing then all got in the van ( some soaking wet) and headed off. We watched the huge ‘gin palaces’ going up the canal and the big ships waiting to go through and I pondered on the realities of so much money in one place and so little in another- the wealth of the yacht owners and the contrast with the gypsy family.

It got very hot in the van so we thought it wouldn’t be a good place to overnight so mistake 1 was to move.

Mistake 2 was not to check the co-ordinates to the Camperstop so we ended up on the Tripoli ‘motorway’ with no way to get off for 18 kilometres and a toll booth. Mistake 3 was to try and use another road to get ot Ancient Corinth with few signposts. Pete was anxious as it was starting to get dark so we ended up turning round and going back to the motorway where of course we had to payanother 6.20 to go back to Corinth. We found the road and the Camperstop (www.camperstop.gr.) and even though it looked a bit unlikely a place, we were warmly welcomed by Vassilis and Fotini the couple who run it. We were brought Greek coffee and spoon sweets before we’d even hooked up. There was an English van there already and Pete spoke to the lady while I was talking to Fotini.

There are views there over the sea though it’s close to the main road with some noise. We went up the hill to the village and had fantastic food and some really nice ( cheap ) wine and coming back to a camper where we could run fans, have good long showers and be cooler made me feel happier.

Day 27 Athens

We got up and took the clothes in from the line, had a chat to Fotini and set off for Athens. Our friend George rang to say he was at Camping Athens already and he’d had an argument with the woman there who said we couldn’t leave the van there and go and stay at his flat . He said she was a nutcase……….I made a mess of getting us to the campsite but the plus side was we got cheap diesel when we stopped at a garage to ask the way. I tried to be diplomatic with the woman at Camping Athens but she wasn’t having it- I said I’d heard of people leaving their vans there, she said they didn’t do it- then contradicted herself saying sometimes they let people leave their vans while they go to the islands……….aaarrgghh- we left!  ( I heard later via www.motorhomefacts.com that several people had trouble with this 'lady' . George and Zoi came so we followed him ( hairy drive) into Athens and parked across the street from the flat. We went to eat in the local taverna with Dragana  then George went home and we went to Dragana’s new flat. It’s very nice and near to George’s. We went back to George’s then to Nikos Bodega bar for drinks with other friends Gregoris, Vangelis and Yiannis who was driving down to get a ferry to Kythera that night. Nikos and Pete came back from the bar to put the bikes inside the van as Nikos was worried about them being stolen. I went to the swings with Dragana and Zoi.

It was very hot- George went to work and we stayed in his room but it was  hot and noisy and I always forget  that about Athens till I get there..

Day 28 Athens

Hot! Pete went to the bakery for bread and got two free little pies. We went to Dragana's for coffee and while I stayed there, Pete went round to Tota’s  coffee shop with George and Vivien. We then went back to George’s – they’d ordered food in from a restaurant. Vivien showed us some pictures of sculptures she’s working on for an exhibition.  Later we went to Nikos’ again and then to Joker’s bar where George works as a DJ near Syntagma.

Day 29 Athens

It wasn’t so hot in the night- we put a fan on. The day followed a similar pattern, Dragana’s for coffee, Nikos’ for drinks. It was an evening tinged with a bit of sadness because we planned to leave the next day.  We had a bit of fun describing the rules of cricket ( !) and Pete made George, Vivien and I play cricket in the flat……..silly mid what???? We formed the  Fostiras Cricket Club but we didn’t have quite enough people for a proper game………!

Penistone to the Peloponnese again 3

Day 12 Aginara

I forgot to write that Yiannis tried my electric bike yesterday- and loves it! It’s strange how  everyone who has a ride on it comes back with a smile on their face. Pete has collected driftwood and sticks and had his first attempt at making a frame for a mirror- it’s not as easy as he thought but he seems pleased with the result. 

We had another chat to our German neighbours ,leaving tomorrow in their VW. What lovely people. We went to eat at the very quiet restaurant- lamb in the oven and chicken which went very well with the rose wine and 2 ouzos on the house. Now for another first- we’ve been to this site so many times and never , ever been to the bar that sits amongst flowers near the beach. I’ve no idea why we’ve never been- just never fancied it I suppose. Well, we went after our meal and it was lovely! It was so pleasant to watch the lights of Zakynthos twinkling across the water, the fireflies dancing , and the beautiful moon. ( Mind you, several fireflies were eaten by swallows zooming past but that’s nature for you) We talked to an older guy who works in the bar- he lives in Kastro and hasn’t been to the castle for years so I showed him my photos. It was much cooler in the night.

Day 13  Camping Kyparissia, Kyparissia

We set off early for Kyparissia  but didn’t do our usual stop for shopping at the A and B supermarket ( closed) or stop at Kaifa Lake for coffee. The road was quiet. There’s a new receptionist at the campsite as Nikos has retired  but Apostoli was very good, explaining about the site and facilities- he didn’t know we’d been there a few times. We got set up in the area known as the bar- on grass, next to bamboos and about ten metres from the sea. We’ve got a lively bunch of cicadas who lie to balance on the awning strap for company. We had a lazy internet afternoon in the shady, breezy spot before going to the next beach ( Trefylias) for a swim and a float about though it was a bit like being on a roller coaster with the big waves rolling in. we had the beach to ourselves. We watched the sun sinking into the sea- fab sunsets here- then walked for a least a minute to the restaurant  to order a salad, souvlaki and pitta. The guy who does the grill here does a really good job. We had Patsouras rose wine to go with it and sat under the trees watching the sky change colour. We caught up with some phone calls and texts to England and Greece.

Day 14 Kyparissia

We’ve put the white curtains with ties up on the awning to give us some morning shade. Pete made toast, trying out the Camping Chef new kitchen ( £20  reduced at Asda in the winter) He found out it’s quite fierce and fast!

We cyled up to the square and had coffee, watched the  comings and goings, then went poking about the little shops. There are so many little ironmongers and handy bits shops- Pete is in his element and isn’t having withdrawal symptoms  from the lack of a Wilkinson’s shop. Another first- we went to buy a lovely little basil plant ( good for keeping away mozzies) and found  a secret garden – well, garden centre, behind the shop. What a lovely green oasis and we’ve never seen it before despite walking past loads of times. The chap there was really nice and we had the sort of Greeklish conversation I resort to when I don’t know the words………I dissuaded Pete from buying an olive tree ( his didn’t manage the frost this winter) as I couldn’t bear the thought of travelling with it in the way. He did buy some fish, fruit and salad- the tomatoes are so delicious. We went right along the next beach and the one after so Pete can indulge his passion for skinny dipping as it’s an accepted place to do it. He took garden shears with him so he could get rid of the scratchy bits off plants on the cliff path as well as a large plastic bag so he could pick up any plastic bottles and rubbish- good man!

We had the fish grilled for tea with ‘George’s salad’ ( George from the Aegean restaurant on Kalymnos makes a wonderful salad with garlic, lemon and oil and it’s my favourite salad) Pete toasted tortillas on the Cadac grill  and they were great filled with salad. I updated my blog  and sent a bit of an emotional email to my Dad trying to encourage him to eat and get active again after his bowel cancer operation.

Day 15 Kyparissia

It was very cool  in the night. We cycled left out of the camp along to the blue flag beaches

were lots of people go , looking for a little cove to ourselves. We cycled past the port which is being gentrified- new grass area, buildings renovated…looking very smart. We went to check a fig tree we know but it’s too early for figs yet then cycled  back as there was nowhere that took our fancy for swimming. So off we went to the usual beach and when we got back it was after seven o clock. Salad Nicoise for tea.

Day 17 Kyparissia

We didn’t hear the sea from our bed when waking up this morning- partly because of the noise of the church bells and partly because it was absolutely flat calm. We swam opposite the van and saw two cyclists from the site push their bikes along the sand and up a little lane which we’ve never explored. Of course we had to find out where it went. It was a steep stony track to start with that leads to the Apollo Art Hotel and through olive groves to the main road. We saw the railway that is now overgrown since Greece shut down a lot of its railways in January. We walked back then Pete cycled along to the archeological site where last year he met the archeologist and she told him about the Roman ruins they were unearthing. They hadn’t many finds last year and the dig had started when the water park was being demolished. She wasn’t about but there were more walls and building footprints  to see and it looks like ongoing work.

 

Day 18 Kyparissia

There was a howling gale in the night so we got up to put the awning in. We put it out again this morning though the wind is strong. We cycled up to town  and went to the Atlantik supermarket but sadly it’s no longer a supermarket- just a half empty shop. It seems like the out of town Lidl and Carrefour must have taken the trade. When we got back- the awning got up in again as the wind got up even more. Pete went round the headland for a swim  under strict instructions from me to be careful  but came back dry clutching two carrier bags full of rubbish that the sea had thrown up. He’d wisely decided not to go in, in case of undertow.  We went over to the grill for a meal- the spaghetti carbonara here is really good ( 6 euros)  Greek people were sitting in the garden in front of the bar enjoying the wind but it felt rather blustery.

Day 19 Kyparissia

The wind died down in the night and I had a big cleaning session. Pete went to the bike shop in town as his back tyre kept going flat. He came back with a new tyre , inner tube, greased and checked over for 25 euros so he was happy and the bike guy was pleased to see him- we had the bikes respoked here last year for less than £50. We walked to the far beach and were delighted to see a small fox scurrying off through the shrubs. Another first for here! Pork chops and veggies for tea. Pete spent ages getting pine resin from Aginara off the front of the van- note to self- don’t park under pines!

Day 20 Kyparissia

We cycled to the market- always worth a look to see the people and what they are selling. Pete got some new shorts as he’d split his ancient favourites climbing down from the fig tree yesterday when he was cleaning. I bet they don’t get put in the bin though….( he's wearing them as I write)

Our old beach brolly lost yet another spoke yesterday so we treated ourselves to a strong one and had a laugh getting it back to the van on the bike! Pete bought a whole chicken which the butcher chopped into pieces- they cut meat so differently here- and I thought it was a daft idea to get so much but he cooked  it all on the Cadac with sliced courgettes and new potatoes while I did green beans and carrots. It was really good. I had very newsy emails from Katie and Lucille which was lovely.

Day 21 Kyparissia

We eventually got the maps out today- been going to do it all week but it’s so easy to be last here. It was flat calm and I swam from the ebach outside the site to the next beach while Pete walked along to meet me- a big swim.  We went along the far beach later and Pete’s good planning with the chicken meant a quick tea of chicken salad. We had a look on the net at stopovers, places to stay if we went to Athens to see friends etc. Decisions, decisions….how do people who travel all the time ever decide where to go? We'll check with friends in Athens to see when they have free time then decide when to go.

Day 22 Kyparissia

We had a disturbed night as it was windy again but we didn't need to put the awning away. I washed bedding in the huge sinks they have here- I quite like splashing about doing the washing here. ( No ironing either so I don't have a pile of it sitting like I do at home)

Lazy day looking at maps, going to the beach (- too bumpy for me to go in) and eating gavros ( small fish) at the restaurant.

Day 23 Kyparissia

We woke to an unusual noise- it was rain on the roof! Pete got up and put things away under the awning and I closed the rooflights but it didn't last long. It made everywhere smell fresh.  We cycled up to town, did some shopping and had beers with mezze at lunchtime in a street cafe bar under plane trees. There were lots of old guys sat putting the world to rights while we drank beer and ate all the lovely little bits on the plate- cheese, mini cheese pies, keftedis ( meat balls) olives, chips, pork pieces, salami....mmm.

When we got back the wind started up again, the awning went in and so did I! I slept the afternoon away....then we made definite plans for the move tomorrow.

Penistone to the Peloponnese - again 2

Day 7 On Board the Anek ferry  ‘Hellenic Spirit’

We set off quite early back down the autostrada to Ancona ( it takes ages going along the coast road though it’s an interesting drive). We emptied waste at the services before the Ancona Nord turn. I got checked in really quickly at the Superfast desk and was given a camping on board notice for Anek ferries – seems that Superfast have been taken over by Anek. We we down on the dockside well before eleven but so were lots of others. It was very hot on the docks and the loading took ages so we didn’t leave Ancona- on the Anek ferry Hellenic Spirit- till quarter to three. We followed a caravan on which had to reverse into a space at the edge of the camping deck and we thought we’d have no chance of a seaview but we were sent forward and got a nice spot one row in from the ‘window’. The boat was packed tightly with vehicles. We had a walk round the ferry decks but we’ve been on the ferry before and the only thing of interest to Pete was the price of spirits in the shop ( expensive) and for me, the places people choose to set up their sleeping arrangements. Those in the know seem to manage to find floor space in air conditioned quiet areas whilst others sleep out on the hot , sticky deck area. We retreated to the peace and quiet of the van, had salmon salad for tea and played backgammon.

 Hellenic Spirit in Ancona

                                                                         

Day 8  Arrival in Greece and Aginara Beach Camping

We were woken by the early calls for people to go back to their cars for arrival in Igoumenitsa but didn’t hear much engine noise as most people left the ferry. We had showers and waited for the boat to get to Patras watching Kefalonia and Ithaca slip past in the hazy morning light. We got a surprise in Patras though- we arrived at a brand new port! It is south of where the old congested port area is and had only just opened. It has designated parking ( unheard of!) an entrance gate with security and high fences. We followed lorries out of a guarded gate along the usual road where police stopped traffic to let ferry traffic out. We went straight up a new bit of road onto the New National Road when we realised that coming out of the new port meant that  we had missed our shopping spot at Lidl. We came off the National Road at junction 4 and went back down towards the coast and found the Lidl we usually shop at. We did a ‘big shop’ and then it didn’t seem so far to Gastouni where we turn off for Glyfa and Aginara beach. We filled up in Gastouni at a cost of 1.42 per litre- as cheap as we’d seen it. There were at least five petrol stations along the road that had closed down since last   year.

Angeliki greeted us smiling at the flowery gate ( an arch covered in bouganvillea). It’s always tricky to choose a place to camp here as there are so many nice spots but access to some is restricted by our three metre height and the overhanging trees. We found one with good shade, set up quickly and headed to the beach- all of a minute’s walk- for a swim but after the first delightful long awaited dip in warm clear water, Pete went back to get the brolly, lie beds and the new Swimways springfloat . We broke the other one after three years of sterling service and I’m not sure that it was meant to have two sturdy adults on it! It’s like a lilo but with netting in the middle so you only blow up the pillow part and the edge. It folds into a circle too so it doesn’t take up much space or require much ‘puff’ to inflate it. One of our best spends ever! We floated about on it eating nectarines- saves getting juice all over you. We stayed at the beach till well after six then pottered about putting up washing lines etc before showering and going to the restaurant. There was much hand shaking with the staff and smiley greetings there. Pete’s beef stifado was excellent, my pork chop was succulent and the rose wine tasted faintly  of strawberries.Two ouzos on the house rounded off a lovely meal.

 Aginara

Day 9 Aginara

We slept till 9am. We took the memory foam overlay off the bed and put it under the mattress as it seemed to be holding our body heat and making it too warm in the night. We also put the quilt away!

We had an early swim in flat calm water. The new dive masks are wonderful- they don’t fog and are really clear but in my haste to get them from the internet, I read reviews but didn’t check that they had nose pieces so I can’t manage with mine at all L. We had salad , brie and stilton for lunch. I had an internet session but couldn’t upload my blog as it was blocked as being a ‘social networking’ site. No rush_ I’ll do it later. We tried the new outdoor cooker today ( £20 from Asda) and it works a treat so we had spaghetti bolognaise ( very Greek). It saves me getting hot cooking indoors. I read about the new ferry port at Patras on www.motorhomefacts.com.

what a lovely swimming pool! Aginara beach.

Day 10 Aginara  

For the second morning running, a large bird had left it’s calling card on the bonnet. Pete was not amused. It was such a big sh*t that Pete decided it was an Elephant Albatross! We cycled into the village of Arkoudi and it was very pleasant to have coffee in the square  at Café Mambo . We went to the nice bread shop and I bought a cheap dive mask. The afternoon passed quickly with swims, trying the new mask and Pete collecting driftwood sticks to make three mirrors this year. I made a mirror last year with drifwood and it looks so nice, Pete thought he’d do some more. We had grilled sweetcorn, celeriac remoulade, salad and pork cutlets for tea. We got to three- three playing backgammon...tense!

Day 11 Aginara

Chemoutsi Castle - and me in the perfect cycling gear.

We set off for Chlemoutsi Castle- or Kastro as it’s known- a castle on a hilltop which can be seen for miles around. We’ve driven past it but never been in it. Angeliki at the gate couldn’t believe we were mad enough to set off uphill in such hot weather……….but ‘mad dogs and Englishmen’ and all that. We got up the hill to Loggia and stopped for coffee. It was really pleasant sitting under the deep shade of trees that had been formed into a canopy, listening to locals chattering whilst being assailed by swallows who have two nests under the eaves. Somewhat reluctantly on my part, we turned left towards Killini , admiring the views, listening to the chirruping of crickets and smelling the wonderful herby smell of Greece. We took a right towards Kastro then the right fork up the hill, then a left fork in the village up the last big pull to the castle. I’m  lucky- I’ve got an electric bike so on went the electric to get me up hills. We sat in the shade a while as six miles uphill had taken its toll on Pete. We paid our three euros each to go in to the amazing castle currently being renovated with European funding. The museum is small but has wonderful pieces of pottery with almost original colours. We watched workmen putting up timbers to retain the arched roof. We were so glad we came after  all those years of not bothering. We cycled into the village and stopped for lunch at Taverna Klodi  which has a pretty garden. We had salad and souvlaki pitas and fantastic cold beer served in big ceramic pots. We were offered melon too and we couldn’t refuse the dark pink cold chunks though trying to eat it without dribbling was a hard job- so I dribbled!

Penistone to the Peloponnese - again

Greek Trip: Penistone to the Peloponnese again July

The excitement of planning this trip had got to me by Sunday when we got the van out to pack it ready for the ‘big annual outing’. I was determined to be as organised as possible so I spent hours reading other people’s blogs, hints and ideas on www.motorhomefacts.com - a treasure trove (with a few lumps of coal in) .

We’d heard from friends Katie and Stewart touring the Moselle region of France so slightly changed our normal route to meet up with them.  So here we go again………

Day 1  The Black Horse Monk’s Horton. England

We set off around 10am and drove to Milton Keynes to see Pete’s 96 year old aunt who doesn’t recognise us anymore, doesn’t speak but we passed the time talking to her and getting smiles and nods. She hasn’t changed from the last time we saw her but it’s a bit sad to see a once active woman sitting in a chair like that. She is very well cared for though. We then headed for Dover via the Black Bull at Monk’s Horton  ( off Junction 11, M20) where Harry the landlord offers free overnight parking if you eat there. It was no hardship to eat there either! The menu is extensive and very different from the usual pub grub. They have a website which says they have a caravan site with showers and hook up but we didn’t see anything resembling one except for a campervan parked in a field behind. We parked on the big car park and had some food and drinks but the migraine that had been threatening all day took over so it meant an early night for me and time for Pete to nurse his leg which the pub dog had bitten- not exactly a warm welcome! It rained.

 The Black Horse pub

Day 2 Aire at Stenay, France

We set off about half past seven and despite road works , were in Dover for just past eight so plenty of time to park up in the ferry queue and cook breakfast. This year, the staff were coming round checking that people had headlamp deflectors on , carried a warning triangle and had a reflective vest. The crossing was swift and smooth ( Seafrance) and soon we were merrily bowling along accompanied by The Mavericks on CD – our usual musical start to the holiday . We headed out of Calais, down the St.Omer/ Paris peage for a quick start. We turned off at Cambrai and took the N43 towards Charlesville Mezieres. It’s a lovely route through villages and long straight roads edged with trees.

 We like to stop just after Le Nouvion where there’s a stretch of road through a forested area with a picnic spot and a friterie ( chip shop!) . We’ve never stopped here when the friterie has been open so my joy knew no bounds when I saw it was open ….so off I shot like a startled rabbit clutching my chip money…oooh and the utter heaven of a chip butty  was mine…. We carried on to Charlesville Mezieres  and when we had to wait a while for roadworks, Pete changed into his shorts- summer starts here…..I did ask what he would do if it rained but he said ‘I will brook no rain’ …whatever that means! ( He’s posh you know) We took the Verdun/ Metz road turning off at Douzy towards Verdun to stop at Stenay. The aire at the Port du Plaisance there is very convenient for loo emptying, filling with water, etc. and an overnight stay. There are showers and it’s a pretty place next the river and canal and town. It’s been organised this year into plots as it was always a bit haphazard before.

 

 the aire at Port du Plaisance                                   

It costs seven euros a night including hook up and free showers. Pete went off for a cycle while I ‘blogged’ with a cuppa. We counted eight British vans there.

 

 

Day 3  Camping D’Ill, Colmar.

We left Stenay travelling towards Montmedy and the  643 towards Longuyon and Longwy, making a slight detour into Petange in Luxembourg for cheaper diesel ( 1.14 euros). It was a very small detour taking us to the A13 then A25 to Thionville  then on past  Metz, Nancy, and St Die. We opted for our usual route ‘par col’ ( over the top) instead of the tunnel route to Colmar.

We usually stay at the aire in Kaysersberg , just outside of Colmar . It costs two euros to park for the day and four euros for overnight with loos, emptying and filling point, a short walk into town where there are shops, a supermarket for diesel, some good cycle tracks, a castle to explore and lots of places to eat and drink. It’s a beautiful little town with fabulous tall wood timbered buildings in narrow cobbled streets. It’s really picturesque with a river running through, storks on the roof tops and flowers everywhere, but we wanted to meet up with Katie and Stewart, our friends who were doing a tour of the Moselle area and thought it might be nicer to be on a site for two nights so we could pitch up on grass next to each other. So we carried on through Colmar, taking the Freiburg road to Camping D’Ill . The site is lovely, right next to the river with loads of room, about four blocks of showers/ loos spread through the long site and  a restaurant. Lots of French people came to eat at the restaurant in the evening , probably because the terrace overlooks the river and the food’s good- though we didn’t try it as the barbecue chez Katie and Stewart was on. The rain came down heavily and we ate inside which wasn’t quite wasn’t quite how I’d imagined our evening but it was lovely just the same. We chatted  and tried to catch up with each other’s travels but there was too much to talk about for one evening.

the site by the river Ill.

Day 4 Camping D’Ill Colmar

It rained all night and first thing, Stewart and Pete did their Good Samaritan bit and lent grip mats and brute force to  a motorhome stuck in mud. I missed all the excitement as I was in the super clean shower. After breakfast, we all cycled into Colmar on marked cycle paths, past Lidl and LeClerc  to the town centre. The old town is so like Kaysersberg on a bigger scale- there were even storks. The timbered buildings dated back  hundreds of years and the sunshine lit up the buildings, the flowers and fountain, and glistened on the canal.

 riverside

      

among the fabulous town buildings                                                                      

The pristine covered market was a veritable foodies’ heaven – we bought bretzel- sort of bread dough pretzels with onions and cheese. We walked round looking up at all the amazing buildings- so much to see. We came across Little Venice where we walked along the canal and were amazed to see a coypu gliding by with it’s head  just above the murky water. It got out onto a step and groomed itself while we watched, fascinated. We’ve never seen one before.

Apparently the little monkeys waste 80% of the plants they eat- bad guys! I was trying to upload a video of this one but got fed up waiting for it to upload.........

We stopped at a café for beer and coffee then cycled back via Lidl and then LeClerc where Pete treated me to my favourite, raspberry tart. I had a bit of a problem walking but overcame it to go and see the heron in the river and the stork that was stalking (!) about the site…….we went so close to it and it seemed unperturbed by us.

look like it's got a carrot stuck on its face!

 

We had a lovely meal- this time outdoors and attempted a catch –up  but both couples still have travel tales to tell………….and I showed my Cuba pictures and no-one fell asleep so they can’t be too boring…………

Stew and Katie

Day 5 Fontenellato , Italy

So, saying goodbye to lovely friends, we headed for LeClerc, a fill of diesel  ( 1.27 euros per litre) and some shopping. We headed off south and went a long easily till we came to the queue for the Gotthard tunnel . It took an hour from the  queue at the northern end to get through. We saw snow on the peaks.We stopped at three o clock for a late sandwich lunch, fuelled up again at Somaglia services ( 1.41 ) and then headed for Fontanellato area da sosta. Last year , we followed directions posted on www.motorhomefacts.com but this year, I trusted myself to find it and got there much more easily by going off at Fidenza and following signs for Fontanellato. It was about 10 mins from the autostrada and  easy to find. There were two other vans there and some new ‘sheds’ – big metal constructions that surely couldn’t just be for shade? On closer inspection, they housed solar panels- what a good idea. I checked out the facilites and , as last year, the loo emptying place was unusable, the loos were locked but there was fresh water available. It’s a free , convenient stop so I won’t complain but how does the loo thingy get full to the brim when there’s a lever to empty it? I tried the lever but other people’s waste didn’t disappear and I’m no plumber…….

Pete sat out in the sun, then we ate a load of fresh prawns ( Pete couldn’t resist getting them in the supermarket) . We moved down the site a bit as the restaurant was running air conditioning of a generator which was a bit noisy- we had plenty of spaces to choose from.

Day 6 Sassenio Spiaggi, Fano, Italy

It was over 30 degrees last night with no breeze so it took a while to go to sleep. We both woke in the night scratching- three mosquitoes had got in- we’d been careless. Anthisan to the rescue and flyswatter to the kill………We got back on the autostrada at Fidenza ( Fidenza village is a huge retail outlet type shopping area)  in ten minutes and off we went into heavy traffic, especially around Bologna. We watched Italian driving in disbelief- motorbikes using the hard shoulder as their special  lane.  We stopped at Rubicone services for a quick sandwich then headed into Fano. We followed signs for Spiaggi and went over the railway to the camping field we’ve used before. It was heaving! I found us a nice spot at the edge where we had a slight sea view and a slight breeze. It’s seven euros a night. You can get water and there’s a sort of  cold shower behind a curtain but the best bet is to go to the beach shower. Lots of Italians come and park for the day, go across the road to the pebble beach, come back to their vans for lunch and a sleep then go home in the evening. We had a lovely swim and a sit on a sun-baked rock. The Italians in the next van brought a plate of water melon over for us so we returned their plate with some sliced fruit cake on it which was appreciated. S'nice to share...... We went for a walk into Fano to get some money and to look at the lovely town .

driving through Switzerland

beach at Fano

the camping field, Fano

evening in Fano