Austria
trip
Day
1. Aire at Dudelange
We woke up at 6 am to get the ferry – the DFDS 8am
sailing to Dunkirk. The boat was very quiet except for two men snoring nearby…I
had a coffee and read yesterday’s papers. We bought some gin for the journey at
£15 for a litre so that made Pete happy and we were soon off and on the road to
Luxemburg via Lille. We stopped for lunch at a nice little aire near Mons. I
programmed Mrs Hinny, the sat nav/nag to take us to a garage we’ve used before
on the south side of Luxemburg at Bascharange. We filled up with fuel and got
some Gordon’s gin at 15 euros a litre.
Mrs Hinny then locked up at refused to work. This was a bit awkward as getting
to the aire at Dudelange was going to be tricky with only a map and the back up
Garmin decided that France doesn’t exist neither does Luxemburg! I pointed us
in what I hoped was roughly the right direction and Mrs H decided to work
again, stopping only when we were about half a mile from where we were going.
We were looking a bit lost at a junction and a group of girls helpfully pointed
out the direction. We saw a camper van on a sign and pulled in to the station
car park but it didn’t feel right. I leaped out, waving the Bord Atlas at two
men who had obviously seen our predicament and asked where the aire was. They
answered in perfect English of course and told us that the aire was further on
up a hill. We found it- it overlooks a skate park and a station, has a water
emptying and filling point and it soon filled up with other vans. We had smoked
haddock chowder for tea. I tried to sort the sat nav out- we’ll see tomorrow if
it works. We played backgammon M3-P1
Day
2 Lech Camping Affing, Augsburg
We emptied water out in a very full aire. The sat
nav works but still cuts out. We stopped at an aire before Landau for lunch. We
were plagued by traffic jams and roadworks all the way to Augsburg. The
campsite is one we stayed in in 2005. It’s very nice, with a small lake and
lots of things for children to do. There are bikes and go carts for them to
play with and sails, boats and boards for the lake. The facilities are all
spotless . We were met there by Katie and Stew who are on the Romantic Road…not
a second honeymoon, but the German tourist board created route which has
castles and lovely scenery. It was so nice to see them. I did some washing and
got it dried too. Katie cooked salmon and I did potatoes, salad and raspberry
yogurt ice cream. They showed us some pictures of their trip so far and we had
a good ‘catch-up’.
Day
3 Lech Camping Lech,Affing, Augsberg
Katie lent Pete her computer for a while to check
on email. We got the number 301 bus from outside the campsite into the centre
of Augsburg- 15.20 euros for a day pass. Augsburg centre was all dug up- roadworks!
We had coffee in the lovely little market where the flower stalls were beautiful with lovely little arrangements
that you don’t get in England. The vegetables looked wonderful too. We had a
look around the Dom- the main church square and a few shops before having
another coffee. We got the bus back from Stand B at the bus station. We popped
over to the Netto shop- just across the road. I cooked a chicken, chorizo and
vegetable casserole with kritheraki ( little Greek pasta shapes like big rice)
and Katie brought strawberries and cheese. A lovely day- but time to move on
tomorrow.
Day
4 Stellplatz Liezen Austria. Vignette or Go box?
We stopped off at Rasthof Samerburg for coffee
where the car park was full of lorries – a Bank Holiday. We headed for Bad
Ischel and saw our first snow capped mountains. As we got near to the border,
we went to buy a go box – something you need if the motorhome is over 3.5 tons
instead of a vignette for under 3.5. We stopped at a service station where
there was a go box sign but they didn’t have any. The lady directed me to the
next service area. We pulled in and went to a pay station but they only had
vignettes. The lady there told us to go across to the petrol station. They
didn’t have them and directed us to the lorry park. It was Bank Holiday and the
guy at the desk was quite old and spoke no English and I spoke no German (
then) so it was difficult. I gave him our van documents and he asked me a
question that I didn’t understand. Luckily a young man came in to buy an ice
lolly and asked if he could help us. How kind. It transpired that the cashier
was asking where we were going and when we told him, he said it would cost 120
euros. The young man recoiled in horror and told us not to pay it, it was too
much. I’d worked out that around 70 euros would get us to Weiz and back on
motorways so I told the cashier that I would ring my friend and we left the shop without a go
box with the young man who told us just to get a vignette as the van doesn’t
look over 3.5 tons. We went back to the petrol station and got one but I was
really anxious……We drove on the autobahn to Salzburg and on to Thalgau where we
left it and had a lovely drive through
St Gilgen. We saw lots of people in national costume and a maypole. We even saw
a guy in a wonderful Tyrolean hat on a bicycle carrying a huge tuba but I
wasn’t quick enough to get a photo. We arrived in Liezen at the stellplatz next
to a sports centre which looked quite new. There is space for three vans with a
picnic table and tap and stunning views. We walked into the very quiet and
closed town where there was one café open. Pete sat out in the evening sun with
a beer.
Liezen stellplatz |
Day 5 Weiz, Austria
We decided for my sanity to stay off the autobahn
which was tricky with the sat nav deciding to only work intermittently.Thank goodness for good maps. It was
a scenic route but we eventually got to
Sylvia and Michael’s, our friends we first met in FInikounda in Greece. Their house is in a super place with lovely views. It was
so good to see them. Michael had been cycling the evening before and fallen off
his bike- he had a black eye and cuts and bruises and had been to hospital
overnight. They took us for a walk
around the town and we spent a long time chatting with them and their children,Clemens
and Martina.
Day 6 Weiz
We went to visit the Zotter chocolate factory. We
watched a film about the making of organic fair trade chocolate then went round
the factory tasting as we went along- lovely! ( and I am not a big fan of
chocolate but this was great) We sat in the sunshine drinking elderberry
cordial, apple juice and beer for Pete. We drove on to Reigersburg castle which
stands on a volcanic plug and took a lift to the top. It was stunning. When we got back, Sylvia cooked weiner schnitzel
and we had apple strudel too. Michael had a text from his insurance company to
tell him about a thunderstorm coming with possible hailstones. Michael and Pete
climbed up on the van and covered it with old cloths to prevent damage from the
hailstones and just after they got it covered, the hail stones started. The
sheet lightning that came with the storm was very impressive and lit up the
night while heavy rain thundered on the roof.
oooh chocolate! |
Strange guys at the chocolate factory! |
Michael and Pete - Reigersburg castle in background |
Day 7 Weiz
We had a lovely long breakfast before going
shopping to Hofer and Interspar where it was great to have our friends help us
with the language. It certainly made shopping easier after that. I was
surprised to see wild garlic being sold- why can’t we get it here? I can get it
if I go and find some to pick. The area around Weiz produces apples but the trees
are small columns, not big trees and the hillsides are covered in rows of
trees. Sylvia told me that this area is called ‘the green heart of Austria’ and
it’s easy to see why. We had a barbecue
but ate inside because the rain started. Over coffee and strudel, we chatted
and chatted and talked about so many things. That’s the joy of visiting friends
who can tell you so much about their country.
Day 8 Weiz
Sunshine! We had breakfast in the garden. Sylvia
and Michael took us to a boggy area next to a lake up a mountain for a walk.
It’s called Teichalm Moor and we walked along a wooden walkway over the marsh
area. There is an enormous statue of a bull made from overlapping wooden slates
there. We had coffee and cake at a hutte
on the mountain then went to a ‘summer ride’ – a metal toboggan run down the
mountain. It was fast and fun. We drove to another lake which was busy with
walkers, joggers, cyclists and roller bladers while overhead there were people
hang gliding in the sunshine.
Day 9 Weiz
A little setback- Pete hurt his back getting out
of the shower (!) Sylvia and Michael’s house was built in the 1930s but is very
modern and has wonderful views. Because of backaches and awful weather, we
stayed at home talking……then we went out for a meal in a local restaurant. We
went for cocktails after dinner and a sadness crept in as we said
goodbye to Sylvia and the children in the evening as they would be at work and
school when we left. More thunderstorms in the night kept up awake.
Day 10 Restaurant Stelplatz Sachsenburg
We were invited to stay longer. Sylvia and Michael
had been so kind and it was sad to leave. We went shopping and got diesel then
travelled via Graz, Klagenfurt and Villach to Spittal an der Drau and
Sachensburg. It was a very scenic drive with no motorway driving but I was glad
when we eventually stopped at the restaurant. We had a meal watching fish in
two enormous fish tanks behind us. Somehow we managed to order snitzel and
goulash. We sat in the van watching the sunshine on the snow at the top of the
mountains but it started raining again. It was free overnight parking and there was free hook up but we didn't use it. I caught up with some diary writing.
Day 11 Krimmfalle Hotel Krimml
There was more rain in the night. We woke to the
sound of a guy chopping wood- there were lots of wooden statues outside the
restaurant along with a tepee, totem pole and wooden animals. We
drove up the Felbertaurn pass and stopped after a gallery for lunch
sitting in bright sunshine surrounded by snow. It was so picturesque- we took
lots of photos- far too many but it’s hard to stop when everywhere you look is
so beautiful. We drove down to Mittersill where I missed a turn due to road
works but we found the Krimml road. We found the stelplatz in the hotel grounds
and went to pay but the hotel was closed. We had a walk around the little town
and used the sparkling clean toilets. Everywhere seemed shut but it was early
afternoon. We plugged into the electric but the water taps were turned off. It
was hot so we slapped on the suncream and went for a walk to the Krimml
waterfalls. There was a huge amount of water coming down and we could see one
of the falls from our van window. It was late afternoon so we decided against
going up the falls and instead walked round a small lake and along the river
back to the still deserted town. We tried the hotel again to pay but we saw a
notice about the hotel being closed for a week- how lucky! We had a free night
with hook up. There were only two other vans there. There was some noise in the
night that sounded like young people talking.
top of Felbertauerrn Pass |
Day 12 Zell am See , Seecamp
The night noise had come from some young people
camping in a tent nearby and they were up early so we were up and off too by
eight o clock. The scenery when we opened the van blinds was perfect- white
capped mountains, waterfalls, meadows and sunshine. A short drive got us to
Zell am See and the lovely Seecamp site. We had a choice of pitches so we
picked one with a lake view, not realising that there was another half of the
site to choose from. Our neighbours moved off after we’d had a bacon sandwich
with fresh rolls from reception even though it was a bank Holiday. We sat a while in the sun and Pete cleaned
the van then we cycled the eight miles around the lake heading left out of the
site along the road. We stopped at the end of the lake and watched cyclists,
walkers, skaters hang gliders, gliders, parachutists, small planes….a hive of
activity. There were lots of people lying on the grass in swimwear but only a
few children in the water. We had a drink in town which is quite a tourist spot.
There were lots of really nice motorbikes about too. After cycling back we sat
in the sun reading then got the awning out for some shade. We played backgammon after tea then went for
a walk to look at the lights sparkling on the lake. It had been a really lovely
day.
We woke to the familiar sound of rain on the roof.
What a difference to yesterday. We walked in the rain with brollies to Zell am
See and sat in the market square under a canopy for a coffee. There wasn’t much
else to do in the rain. It was dismal. We had a soggy walk back and did some
jobs around the van. I read a book I’d started yesterday- and finished it. We had a depressing read of the weather
forecasts.
It rained all night- time to move. It was an
expensive stay at 67 euros for two nights but it included metered electricity
which was eight euros eighty! How that could be right with one kettle and the
fridge on. I’m not sure? Still we had one lovely day there. We stopped for
coffee after an hour and found the flask had broken and in typical fashion, the
sat nav stopped working in Salzburg where I hadn’t got map detailed enough to get us to the
campsite. This was when the kindle really became useful - I searched for the
campsite on it and clicked open the map..result! We even saw a Hofer on the way
so we stocked up. The campsite reception man was really friendly and we had a
pitch overlooking Salzburg. The facilities are immaculately clean and tidy
here.
Day 33 camping Des Dunes, Fort Philippe, Dunkirk
Day 14 Panorama Camping Salzburg
Our friend Gerd, who we met in Finikounda, Greece came round to the van
to welcome us before collecting Gabi his wife and Alex his son and taking us
into Salzburg and we went for a wet walk around the city. It was fascinating
hearing about the city from people who
know it so well. In the Marketplatz in front of the church, there was a brass
and wind festival being held and we listened to them playing- they were very
good! We walked round to the Mozart statue then went back to listen again as
they were playing ‘ Gabriella’s song’ from a film with a haunting melody.
There
were so many things to see from old shops signs above doors in the streets to
the bridge where the railings are covered in padlocks. It has become a
tradition for couples to write their names on a padlock, lock it to the bridge
then throw the keys in the river. We saw the lovely marble staircase in the
Schloss Mirabel before going to the Augustiner Brewery. What a place! Firstly,
it’s very old and then it’s enormous and it’s got great beer! We sat in a huge
hall with big pots of beer and Gabi got some food to share from the little
shops in the brewery…my first Leberkase, a meat loaf. There was a really good
atmosphere with people of all ages all sitting drinking and eating together,
families and friends meeting up, - you could even take your own food. Gabi
kindly took us back to a very quiet camp site.
Day 15 Panorama Camping Salzburg
It rained in the night and it was cold. Gerd came
to take us back to the square where the music festival was being held and we listened to an Austrian folk band playing ( harp, Styrian harmonica, three
trumpets and a tuba) The guys sang as well so although rain threatened, we sat
in the sun with a beer and coffee watching all the people in national costume
milling about in the square and listening to the music. The sun came out and it
was lovely to see people smiling, singing, clapping and tapping their feet to the music. Gerd
once more was our tour guide and took us round some interesting places before
going back to the camp site. After lunch, we went for a walk up the hillside
towards a church but it started raining heavily so we rushed back to the van.
Gerd arrived with chocolate cake for us.
Day 16 Panorama Camping Salzberg
We thought about cycling but then it rained so we
walked the cycle route into Salzberg, following the river into the centre. We
saw huge flood defence work going on along the Salzach river. ( It was needed
as just after we got back, there was terrible flooding and where we’d sat by
the river was under water) We took the big umbrella so we didn’t get too wet
and somehow we found our way back to the brewery! We had beers of course and warm ham hock cut up served with mustard and big bread
chunks. It was delicious. When we walked back, we took a shorter route via
Itzling. Gabi and Gerd came round later
and brought us some local wine, beer, bacon, cheese and home made
zirbenschnaps. ( pine needle liquer?) We chatted and laughed a lot. They said
it would be cold in the night – and it was.
Day 17 Panorama Camping Salzburg
Sunshine! Wow – what a difference it makes to how
things look and how you feel. The views from our windows were amazing! We sat
outside and watched the comings and goings of tourists on the campsite. We
watched hares running in the field next to us as the farmer cut the corn and
watched a hawk hovering overhead. Gabi
and Gerd came and we went together to the restaurant close to the campsite for
traditional Austrian food. We drank most- cider with the lovely food and the
cook’s husband came over to play music
for us. Then Gerd played and we had a
wonderful evening which ended by us watching the stars over the mountains.
Again, we were sad to be leaving lovely friends and such a lovely place.
taken from the campsite |
Day 18 Camping Bannwaldsee , Schwangau, Germany.
We found a Lidl on the way out of Salzburg near
Freilassing and stocked up. We bought lots of radishes- they are great here and
I’d eaten them in the brewery and they go well with beer! We stopped at
Chiemsee for coffee in a good parking area. We’d stopped here before on our way
back from Slovenia and swans, geese and ducks all came over to see what we had
for them to eat. ( nothing!) We had a
scenic drive on quiet roads but a road closure caused some difficulties as the
diversion took us through a tiny village where a double articulated lorry and a
bus were trying to get round a tight corner. Pete coolly reversed into a farm
gate way- if I’d been driving I might have had a panic attack! We parked in the
stelplatz on the outside of Camping Banwaldsee where we had a lake view. The
pitches are marked, have a tap and drainage and electric hook up- perfect. We
cycled into Schwangau but as it was nice and we felt like a cycle, we carried
on into Fussen. We walked round the beautiful town with lovely buildings then
went into the Netto shop – not that we needed anything- and cycled back to the
site over an impossibly turquoise river. It’s very nice here with the mountains
around and the fairy tale castle close by.
Day 19 Schwangau
Blue skies. The showers here are tricky- a three
second flow from when you push the button- useless. It’s a different sort of
stelplatz here- much more like being on a camp site and people go off for the
day and return. There are quite a few hired vans overnight and we spotted a New Zealand flag in
one. We cycled into Schwangau and stopped at what looked like a garden centre
but inside it was a super supermarket. Then we found a brewery! It looked
closed but it wasn’t- so we sat inside and I had coffee and Pete had Dunkel beer from the Schloss Brauhaus which
was a beautiful dark beer. I had soup
with pancake strips in and Pete had sausages- all shared of course. We went out
into the sunshine on the terrace where I tried to use the free internet but it
needed a connection to a link which my kindle can’t do. We went to the tourist
office and got a free map and cycled to
look at the campsite at Brunnen before cycling back past the stelplatz to the
end of the lake. An eagle flew overhead
as we cycled along. When we got back we talked to a Dutch couple sitting in the
sun. We had to cycle back to the Brauhaus for an evening meal as the food was so
good and the beer even better. The roast pork and red cabbage with knodel (
dumplings) was lovely. We sat in the evening light with views of the snow
capped mountains and the spectacular castle. We caught up with internet needs
and cycled back just as it was getting dark.
It was a grey morning and we couldn’t decide to
stay or go. The low cloud
decided it, as we couldn’t see much. It cost 38 euros 80 on a fully serviced pitch for two nights. We drove down and parked next to the brewery so we could buy some bottles of beer. I went to the bank. We drove towards Bodensee along a bit of the Alpenstrasse and we had another diversion down a tiny lane and over a narrow stone bridge- breathe in! We got to the stellplatz at Lindau but we didn’t like it- it felt hemmed in and dark. The camp site looked nice but it was very busy and the weather was still grey so we drove around Lindau and picked up some diesel in Bregenz then drove to Friedrichshafen. We found the stellplatz easily- once again outside a campsite and 12 euros. We walked along the lakeside into the town. There were swans everywhere- and midges! We saw a band dressed in Victorian costume playing on an old boat outside the Zeppelin museum. It was expensive in the lakeside cafes so we walked along to the Schloss and back picking up a better map of Germany in a book shop. We watched boats coming and going across to Konstanz in Switzerland. It brightened up as we walked back but it was still coat enough to need a coat on. The night was quite quiet considering we were next to a main road.
decided it, as we couldn’t see much. It cost 38 euros 80 on a fully serviced pitch for two nights. We drove down and parked next to the brewery so we could buy some bottles of beer. I went to the bank. We drove towards Bodensee along a bit of the Alpenstrasse and we had another diversion down a tiny lane and over a narrow stone bridge- breathe in! We got to the stellplatz at Lindau but we didn’t like it- it felt hemmed in and dark. The camp site looked nice but it was very busy and the weather was still grey so we drove around Lindau and picked up some diesel in Bregenz then drove to Friedrichshafen. We found the stellplatz easily- once again outside a campsite and 12 euros. We walked along the lakeside into the town. There were swans everywhere- and midges! We saw a band dressed in Victorian costume playing on an old boat outside the Zeppelin museum. It was expensive in the lakeside cafes so we walked along to the Schloss and back picking up a better map of Germany in a book shop. We watched boats coming and going across to Konstanz in Switzerland. It brightened up as we walked back but it was still coat enough to need a coat on. The night was quite quiet considering we were next to a main road.
Sunshine. We tried the showers in the camp site
but they needed tokens . Heading for Meersburg shouldn’t have taken long but
the road was very busy and a broken down vehicle caused tailbacks.We found the
stellplatz easily and parked up past the Fire Station next to a park. There’s
electric points nearer to the main road and there’s loo emptying and water here
for 8 euros. We cycled down into town though there is a bus. It’s a beautiful
town with the old part build on a steep hill down to the lakeside. We looked at
the little shops and the houses built in the
moat on the way down to the lake. We passed bars and cafes – all busy
and we sat and watched the hustle and bustle and the boats crossing to
Mainau. As we sat, a zeppelin flew by
doing a round trip. We had ice cream sitting under some ‘purple rain’ –
wisteria flowers which seems to be everywhere. We cycled along the lake then
back up via a supermarket after getting some lovely pumpkin seed rolls from a
bakery. Loaded with salad, we cycled back up to the now busy stellplatz. After
salad and chicken fajitas, we walked round the houses and up the hillside where
we saw rows of vines growing up the slopes and got a glimpse of people’s houses and gardens.
It’s a good time for flowers- there are
lots of tulips and loads of wild flowers. We walked to the other stellplatz
which is 12 euros . It has marked pitches and it was full too.
Meersburg |
Day 22 Camping Bankenhof Titisee
We woke to the sound of rain on the roof again. We
had breakfast and set off for our next stop which was to be Papiermuhle at
Stockach. We found it next to a Caramobil shop which had hundreds of caravans
for sale. We parked up ( opposite and English Autotrail) but as it was still
raining and looking unlikely to stop, we moved on to our next choice, Loffingen
which was only a half an hour’s drive. The stellplatz appeared to be outside a
water park/activities centre. Two vans were in a chained off area and there was
no-one around to ask so we had a coffee and a think. The area is heavily wooded
and is clearly one that is usually busy with walkers etc but it was
deserted. We decided to drive on to
Titisee. It was a lovely drive but the stellplatz outside Camping Bankenhof had
no electricity thought the Bord Atlas said it had. We parked up and had lunch
and saw an Alan Rogers camp site inspector’s van pull in. We cycled round the
lake to Titisee which was pretty but awash with tourists of every nationality.
The shops were full of tourist tat and we decided that it really wasn’t for us.
We wheeled the bikes through the busy street through groups of tourists with
guides and took the cycle track back to the camp site. We saw another
stellplatz outside camping Sandbank which looked like it had electricity. It
isn’t in the Bord Atlas. We bought two hours of internet so we could be lazy
and watch the last game of the season
against West Bromwich and Sir Alex Ferguson’s last game as manager. We
had to open one of the special beers from Schwangau too. I went for a shower in
the rather dingy facilities of the campsite. The shower head was hanging at
waist height and drooped down so you needed one hand to direct the flow. To
operate the water, it was a push button so I had no hand spare to wash with …….I
pushed the button constantly and got cold and not very wet! The music from next
door’s van was very loud. I think they’d gone out and left it on for the dog.
Having moaned- the site is pretty and next to a stream.
Titisee |
Day 23 Breisach Germany
Next door’s music was full blast at 7.30am. It
rained heavily in the night. Pete went to brave the showers while I made toast.
It was a very long downhill drive through the Black Forest where there was
still snow on the tops. And it took less than an hour to reach the stellplatz
at Breisach and a spot right by the river Rhine. We’d seen this spot last year
but there’s no electricity and we thought we’d need electricity for the fridge
which wasn’t working but it didn’t work on electric either. I messed up with
the ticket machine not changing how many days I needed but the ticket showed
that I paid 10 euros which was right for two days. It was very cold and windy so we didn’t
bother taking the bikes off. Pete made me two cups of coffee in honour of
having a lovely spot with a river view.
We walked to town and were stopped by two people ,British Australians,
who had emigrated to Australia, came back to England but still have a house
there.
They were lovely people and we chatted for a good while. We went up to the church and tower. It was still
cold and windy and the town was very closed. It’s a Bank Holiday and only the
coffee shops and restaurants were busy with tourists from the Rhine cruises
boats. We came back to the van for lunch then walked again to the old fort and
over the bridge into France. My hips were aching which was a pity as I wanted
to walk more. We spent time looking at the Bord Atlas trying to decide a route
and stops on the way back to the ferry-
we have so many choices. I cooked bolognaise sauce for tomorrow and made some
burgers with the other half of the mince. We marked our route out on the atlas
and it’s a sort of figure eight. We were very content in our river view spot
despite the weather.
Breisach |
Day 24 Breisach
We hoped for sunshine but it wasn’t to be. We went
into town for bread and Pete had a chat to the bakery lady. We walked up to the
Old Town again and looked round some of the places- the old Rathaus and an
amazing treadle wheel that plays bells, a Montessori school and we had lovely
views over the river. It’s quite high up.
We’d planned a cycle and a picnic but it started to rain. There were
loads of swans on the river and the barge that had pumping something all day left.
We walked north along the river but it was very industrial that way so we
walked up to the Old Fort which also had marvellous views. It brightened up a
bit and we sat outside the railway station in a beer garden in the feeble
sunshine. There was a little market going on- about five stalls, of which one
was a sausage and hot dog stall. After we’d showered, we saw a guy come round
on a bike to check the parking tickets. Two German vans across the car park
didn’t seem to have tickets and a heated argument went on. Both couples came
out of their vans and starting shouting at the parking guy. They all went over
to where the site rules are posted but they didn’t get a ticket. Then it all
went quiet again so we went back to looking at campsites and the route back.
Rain again. We drove to Ettenheim where we parked
at a stellplatz outside an Ernst caravan/motorhome sales place. We bought a new sun brolly ( daft thing to do
as it was raining). There is electricity there on a meter and an emptying point
1 euro. We drove on to Lahr where we did a spot of Lidling ( shopping in Lidl)
We drove up in to the Black Forest again to Nordrach where it was raining of
course. It’s a nice stellplatz which cost 1 euro for six hours electricity and
free parking. So everything went on charge- computer, bike batteries, e books
and we went walking. We had a wet walk to the Rathaus then up the hill, past
the Doll museum and lovely gardens.I left Pete to walk more while I went back
to the van. I found a wifi hotspot and signed on 5 euros for 24 hours. There
wasn’t much to do there in the rain so I lost myself in the internet. We had
a nice meal then browsed the evening away punctuated by the sound of hourly bells.
Nordrach is a very pretty place and I imagine it’s lovely in summer.
Day 26 Camping Municipal Pierre De Coubertin,
Ribeauville, Alsace , France
We had a very quiet night and we snuggled under
the quilt. The church bells started at eight so we got up to blue skies and made
bacon sandwiches. We set off for Ribeauville in France which was about an hour
and a half away over the Rhine. The
route was interesting passing alongside the Rihine canal and huge hydro
electric works. We deviated from route and went into Selestat to see what
diesel prices were like as they’d been up to 1.48 euros in Germany. We saw a
big LeClerc so bought our usual French treats- prawns, rillettes, baguettes,
cheese with figs and nuts , not forgetting my favourite- a raspberry tart. We
got to the Ribeauville camp site around
1.30 pm and it was closed for lunch so we waited- just having a bit of baguette
and rillettes to pass the time! The reception lady was very nice and we
got a good pitch with electric and a tap for 12 euros plus 3.80 for electric.
The wifi was free. It’s quite ‘Caravan Club’- hedged pitched and very neat. It
has two resident storks who looked a bit muddy and bedraggled but happy to
stalk about. The reception lady told us
the cycle route to E LeClerc and town which was useful. We wlked into
town in the rain with a big brolly. We found the aire there but we were ready
for a campsite and a ‘luxury’ stay. The very pretty town was very busy and
there were lots of older students heading for coaches. The town is quite
amazing- a bit like York but multi-coloured instead of stone. There’s lots of
Alsacienne tourist stuff featuring storks etc but it was lovely to walk through
the narrow streets and beautiful old buildings. It was fascinating to look at
the dates on the buildings. We just kept walking and walking till we came to
the higher part of the town and we went up a lane by the ramparts away from
people. The sun came out and we walked by vineyards around the outskirts of
town. We came back down again to find the tourists had mostly gone and went
back to the site. I fed one of the storks (who had a missing toe ) with damp
bread and he caught every piece in his beak. We sat in the sun until another
rain cloud decided to drop its contents- still , two gin and tonics can make
you find the cloud’s silver lining. We ate prawns and salad and had a bottle of
champagne just to celebrate life. We went over for long hot showers- there are
lots of showers and loos- and though they were push button, they were very good
and had ‘waterfall’ drenching shower heads- super. I liked the floor level
lighting around the camp too as it wasn’t too bright , but you could see your
way around.
Day 27 Ribeauville
We woke to the sound of kids playing football- not
rain. There’s a school next door to the site. We’d had a comfortable quiet
night- somehow it feels different on a campsite as on a stellplatz/aire. We
walked along the South Ramparts by the river. Unlike yesterday, it was
deserted. We hid under the brolly and a tree by an old tower until a heavy
shower eased a bit and we did ‘snicklepaths and ginnels’ ( old names for little
lanes and alleyways) seeing things we hadn’t seen the day before. We got some
sausage and Tutiac wine but had to cook it inside instead of out.
It was a beautiful sunny morning . We set off
through Kaysersberg – our usual route from Greece to home- and over the Col du
Bonhomme where it was snowing at the top! Strange weather. We stopped at a
bakery in Fraize and I had a conversation with the lady in the shop who was
wearing thick wool clothes and long boots …and there was me in a sun dress and
flip flops. I bought bread and two of the lovely rolls cooked with cheese and
ham in-they are amazing. We cut off the usual route and went via Gerardmer
where we stopped before the town at a
picnic spot and had coffee. It’s a very
picturesque area and even in the showers we saw lots of cyclists up and down
the mountains. Gerardmer looks like a
good place to stay on the lake – very scenic. It got brighter over by Epinal.When
we got to Charmes we parked by the river near the where people were playing
boules. The grass and ground were wet so we were careful to park where we could
easily get off. We noticed a English van
that we had seen before at Titisee parked opposite. We went for a short walk
but came back to watch the people playing boules. We sat out, then sat in, then
sat out as the weather continued to play games too. We had chicken wings and
drank a lovely German white wine. I sope to the English guy and invited him over
for a drink and a chat. He was glad of
the company and we had a nice evening.
Day 29 Saarburg, Germany.
It was a grey morning and after another chat and
coffee, we emptied out at the easy access point and set off in the rain. It’s a
good aire with 6 amp electric and toilets for 6 euros with showers available by
purchasing a 1.50 euro jeton from the guy who collects the money in the
evening. There is work going on now to install a barrier and ticket machine. It’s
between the Moselle canal and river and
you can get free internet up at the library/ culture centre. There’s a pizza man who comes round on his
bike to get orders then delivers the pizza later. We drove in heavy rain past
Nancy and Metz. We stopped at a motorway aire for a sandwich and it was really
busy with lorries everywhere. We went to Pont a Mousson where we were going to
stop but there was some sort of festival on and the aire was impossible to get
to. We drove around but decided to leave and head for Saarburg. The stellplatz was neat and very soggy! We
tried parking in one place but couldn’t get level and the ground was so soft.
We moved to another pitch and went across to the wooden hut that is reception.
We found it was also a mini café and pub and two people with a dog chatted to
us. We paid 8 euros then had tea and cake in the van. After that welcome drink
we walked along the river into Saarburg. We crossed over the bridge into the
castle and old town area. It was lovely. Pete went right up to the castle while
I waited. We went to the waterfall which was heavy with water and very
spectacular. We looked for somewhere to eat but ended up coming back to the
van. The electric on site was 50 cents per kilowatt hour and lasted three and a
half hours. It was cold so we had an early night reading in bed.
Day 30 Schwebsingen, Port du Plaisance, Luxemburg.
We had a lazy start to the day. There’s only one
ladies’ loo and one gents on this site. They were very clean and had electric
points in both. Places can be reserved on this stellplatz. We headed into town
to do some shopping then a half an hour drive got us back to the motorway where
we drove a little way then arrived near Remich at the Port du Plaisance. We
went to the right and into the yacht
club where we paid 9 euros and 2 euros
for electric. We parked up in brilliant sunshine looking over the river and
marina. We had lunch sitting outside on the grass and stayed there relaxing in
the sun till 5pm when we cycled the flat route along the Moselle to Remich. It
was lovely- families with picnics on the grass, people walking, cycling,
rollerblading, while the swans postured, preened and posed for the camera. It
was such a nice evening. Pete cooked outside and we sat out enjoying the
warmth. It was light till past nine o clock.
Pete used the lovely showers in the caravan site (
just on the left of the entrance). They have a huge central shower rose in the
ceiling and a washbasin in each shower. It was a lovely sunny morning. We
planned to head for Montherme north of Charlesville Mezieres . We turned right
out of the site and into Remich and then took a left turn towards Luxemburg.
There were about seven garages along that stretch of road. We went in a Total
garage and it was like a huge supermarket stocking drinks, cigarettes and more
coffee than I’ve ever seen in one place before. We filled the tank at 1.18
euros a litre. We headed on up the motorway past Luxemburg but it got cloudy so
we changed plans again. We attempted a stay in Charlesville Mezieres but missed
a turn so just carried on to Le Nouvion where to Pete’s delight, the friterie
was open in what we call ‘Chippie Woods’. Possibly the best chips in the world
were stuffed into a baguette we’d bought and savoured slowly……..
Onwards then- maybe to Bavay? No, we stopped at Le
Catillon by the canal where we’ve tried
to stop before but it has always been busy. We pulled in opposite and a kind
French guy helped us reverse in and showed us where the electric and water was.
He liked the sweets I gave him. W parked u and connected up then went for a
walk around the village and to the other side of the canal where a rough piece
of ground has been tidied up, fenced and had hedges planted for motorhome
parking. There’s no electric or water that we could see but it’s a nice place
to park. You can dump water and wc just outside the aire on the other side of
the road. We carried on walking around but there isn’t much to see at all. It
started raining so we went back for a cup of tea and sat watching a chap
fishing. Two British vans arrived and pulled in- very close- too close in fact.
We had a lovely walk along the canal and back. We smelled new grass, hedgerows
and flowers and saw lots of wildlife including a vole. It was a very quiet
night.
Day 33 camping Des Dunes, Fort Philippe, Dunkirk
Cuckoos woke us up! Then we had an amusing time
watching the English vans trying to extricate themselves without falling in the
canal. At first it was sunny and we rolled through Le Cateau – home of the
Matisse exhibition. I missed a turn in Cambrai and went through it instead of
round it as we usually do. Hmmm- ring roads are good! We were heading towards Lille and came across
a huge traffic jam so I took us round Carvin and Seclin to miss it.Others did
that route too. When we got onto the
A25/E42, we stopped at a busy services for lunch. Rain and gloom descended. We
went to find the aire at a windmill in Hondeschoote, It was nice but in pouring
rain everything looks grim. We found the Leclerc in Bergues and had a look
around the shop but there was nothing to get excited about though we bought
some wine. We fuelled up and then came to a tricky bit…looking for the aire at Gravelines with no address and only a vague
idea where it was. Not good. We drove through the centre of Dunkirk which
looked nice but we were tired and a bit cross. We got the last parking spot by
the Marina ( 6 euros) but the van next to us was running a very noisy generator
and we couldn’t stand the noise. We decided to try for an aire outside a
campsite but when we got to Camping Des Dunes, the nice guy, Len, explained
that they don’t do that anymore. We thought we should just stay there. Len took
us to a pitch that was wet grass and sloping down so we would likely get stuck
trying to get off. He took us to another one which was fine except the electric
didn’t work Pete plugged us into another pitch which was vacant. We had a beer
and then went to look at the sea through the drizzle. There was a lone jogger
but nothing else much to see so we came back to the nice warm van. I went for a
shower using a system I’d never seen before. You buy the card at reception and
it gives you minutes of water. The water wasn’t very hot. We enjoyed our prawns and salad for tea and
we had a quiet night.
Day 33 Home
We were woken by blackbirds and a cuckoo. We got
up at 8am and it was raining. We emptied out most of our water and len at
reception gave me a map of Gravelines. The ferry is around Loon Plage and we got there in time to be put on an
earlier ferry with no extra charge. We had an uneventful trip back taking the
M11 towards Cambridge and coming up the A1.
We’d had a great trip and learnt lots of new
things and my knowledge of German has improved greatly…even if it’s only words for food and drink!