The Pull of the Peloponnese: Summer trip to Mainland
Greece 2012
In dark November,
when the days are short, we get to thinking of sunshine and travelling……………Pete
gets twitchy round the ferry booking sites on the computer wondering why they
don’t load their schedules sooner……and we browse through pictures of sunnier
days. It’s then we talk about places we’d like to go and invariably, because we
are creatures of habit, our thoughts turn to the lovely times we have in
Greece……and feel the pull of the Peloponnese. So here we go again.......
Day 1 .
It’s pouring with
rain and cold- who wouldn’t leave this all behind if they had the chance? We
were due to leave this morning and had slept in the van overnight ready for an
early departure when a last minute trip to the cellar revealed water rising
down there. We’d just got claims sorted from the last flood, replaced the
fridge, freezer and tools and the water was rising rapidly again. We got a
neighbour’s pump and the Council guys came out to try to clear the blocked drain
that seems to be causing the problem but they didn’t manage to do it. We got
all the water out but left the pump in situ in case it started rising again.
Friends offered help
( again- bless you!) but we decided not
to leave till tomorrow. Chris and Colin our neighbours came round- their cellar
had flooded last time but not this so we are convinced about the blocked drain.
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Southsea |
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Southsea Beach |
Day 2 Southsea
Everything remained
dry in the cellar so we made an early start to Southsea for friend Andy’s 60th
birthday party. We saw another friend drive past on the way down so we stayed
together and got to the campsite. It’s not a place we would choose to stay
again having stayed here before, but it’s very convenient for Andy and Carol’s
house. There are lads in tents, families in statics, people on seasonal
pitches, workmen in vans as well as top of the range coachbuilts and
demountables……all having to splash about on the puddled gravel . The graffiti
on the back of the toilet doors and the run down feel of the place doesn’t appeal
much and although the site prides itself on being next to the beach , a
huge grassy bank prevents any sea
views- still it serves a purpose for us.
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We popped round to
Andy and Carol’s for a couple of hours before returning to the site for showers
( I had to hold the button in all the time as it wouldn’t stay on at all) and a
change of clothes. We got taxis to the Still and West pub on the Portsmouth
harbour front and went into the Vanguard room upstairs. ( so called because HMS
Vanguard ran aground there – Pete’s dad was in the crew of the Vanguard during
the Royal Tour to South Africa- George Vth and his Queen…….) The restaurant
upstairs has fabulous views over the harbour and we loved watching all the
boats and ferries to the Isle of Wight come close. We met lots of friends and had a great time, helped by the really
good beer and fish and chips served in
paper.
Day 3 Dover
It was sunny!
Blinking at the unaccustomed sight of sunshine, we had breakfast then left the
van in the car park while we walked up to Andy’s for lunch. Lots of people came
who we hadn’t had time to talk to the night before and we ate in Carol’s
beautiful courtyard garden where the different jasmines smelled fantastic. We
left to go to Dover, picking up some diesel at Morrison’s at Horndean on the
way out of Portsmouth. We parked on Marine Drive where we were joined later by
other motorhomes though I searched in vain for a public loo. We had an early
night.
Day 4 Stenay France
We went to the port
early – and got pulled in for a van search! It’s never happened this side of
the Channel before. The guy wanted to see the cutlery drawer and asked if we
were carrying knives ( well how else am I going to cut things up?) guns or
weapons (!) He was good-humoured and it
only took a minute or two then we were off to queue for embarkation on an
earlier ferry than planned. We had a bacon sandwich and had just cleared up
when we were called on. The ferry was awash with schoolkids. They were
everywhere. I pondered about taking young kids abroad in groups especially from
past experience and listening to some of the conversations of the ten and
eleven year olds around me…….’are we on a ferry then?’ ‘ are we up France yet?’
The older ones made me smile as they eyed each other up………….However Miss Mardypants
( me) wasn’t too enamoured of the huge din
so many voices make or the lack of spatial awareness- how come they
always bump into/ fall against me? We moved from our comfy seats only to find
that there was nowhere for old grumps to read the papers in peace and to make
matters worse, the queue for coffee didn’t ever get smaller! We headed for the relative quiet of the Duty
free shop where buying gin had a soothing effect.
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Stenay |
We had a change of
route this year heading along the A16 towards Dunkirk then heading for
Lille. We had a necessary coffee stop
then tootled down the motorway joining our usual route at Cambrai. This is a
lovely drive so the ‘Mavericks’ went on the stereo played loudly to get us into
holiday mood. We headed towards Charlesville Mezieres and stopped at a picnic
spot in the woods just after Le Nouvion but sadly the ‘frites’ (chips) van
wasn’t there so we had a healthy salad instead while watching a family with
seven children having lunch. They had a minibus and trailer with 9 bikes on a
frame over the top of the trailer.
You’d need to be organised with such a big family and it seemed they
were but as usual there was always one being a bit naughty………..memories of French lessons at school
came back as the mother said ‘ You’re
driving me mad’ ! Did Madame Emerson say it so often that it’s really clear in
my mind?
We got to the Port du
Plaisance in Stenay just as a huge downpour happened but we waited two minutes
till it stopped and went into the office where three older ladies were sitting
doing crosstitch and chatting. We had a
little chat and a giggle as I paid my seven euros, the same as last year, and
got the key code for the toilets and the gate. We drove over the bridge into
the aire and parked near the shower block. We had a walk along the river in the
sunshine watching the swallows swoop, the fish jump and the ducks dabbling.
It’s a popular aire with fishermen. We walked up into town to see what has
happened to the Intermarche that used to be a good stocking up point but it’s
completely closed so we carried on and just popped into the Lidl for a tub of
cream for my spaghetti though somehow
two litres of wine, some apricots and peaches managed to find their way into my
bag. I cooked some chicken livers with brandy and cream sauce and we enjoyed it
as the walk had made us hungry. I messed about with the Kindle and it froze. I
think it was because the battery was low but something else happened- when I
charged it up, I could suddenly put text into Facebook which I couldn’t do
before so that’s good as it’s a brilliant way to keep in touch without wifi.
(Thanks to whoever it was who wrote on a motorhome website about Kindle 3G with
keyboard being able to be used anywhere for free- it’s already proved a useful
though slightly clumsy way of communicating)
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the lettuce garden! |
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Stenay roundabout |
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Kayserberg Aire
Day 5 Kaysersberg France |
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nesting storks |
We woke with the ringing of the bells but waited a while
before going for a hot powerful shower. We went back round to the office and
emptied waste and put on a bit of water before driving across to Longuyon. I
messed about with the sat nav as I couldn’t
remember how we’d got to the petrol station in Luxembourg that was
nearest but we found it at the beginning of the A13 for Metz. I missed a turn
for Metz as I was still messing about trying to save the location L but we got back on the road fairly
quickly. We stopped around Nancy at a wooded aire for lunch then drove over the
Col and down into Kaysersberg parking down at the bottom of the aire next to a
little park. It’s always a lovely scenic drive over the mountain to get there.
We saw the usual storks nesting on a tower. The price of the stay there has
changed- it’s usually 2 euros for the day and 4 euros for the night but now
it’s 7 euros for 24 hours. However getting 7 euros in change proved to be
tricky! We went to Intermarche and got some bits of shopping. I asked politely
for change but the grumpy lady said no they didn’t give change. We went to buy
ice creams- another treat here, but the helpful lady showed me her till- no
euros. By putting small coins together with a 50 centimes piece we found in the
van we managed to get the 7 euros together for a ticket. An English van was
parked over the way and the guy came to talk to Pete while I cooked salmon and
veg. I didn’t enjoy it and left most of it but I ate my strawberries! Pete was very tired so he went to bed around
9.30pm.
Day 6 Fontanellato
Italy.
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on the road |
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Swiss rain |
We had a big deep
sleep not noticing the road noise or any vans coming and going. After tea and
toast, we set off for LeClerc in Colmar to stock up on diesel and groceries.
It’s on the road to Freiburg. A wide load was coming through when we turned
left onto the road, so we waited for it to go through and the workmen putting
the cones back so we could get past. Turning into LeClerc, there were guys
painting white lines on the road so we had to do a nifty move to get in the car
park. We set off towards Breisach to look at an alternative aire for the return
journey- we didn’t see it because we were too busy looking at the Rhine. It was
a nice drive down the German side, stopping at Bad Bellingen for a Swiss
Vignette at 35 euros. It seemed easier to get through Basle from that direction
and we went through border control without a stop. There were no queues for the
Gotthard tunnel but there was a heavy downpour of rain going through
Switzerland.
We stopped in the second services after the tunnel where there
were no lorries at all- in fact there had been a ‘no lorries’ road sign
flashing earlier. Where do they go? We got round Milan fairly easily keeping in
the middle lane as you never knew whether the nearside lane would take you off
somewhere . We turned off at Fidenza heading for an area da sosta at
Fontanellato which was deserted.
The toilets were locked- the same as last year-
and some mucky Herbert had put plastic bottles down the loo dump making it unusable
though the waste dump on the ground now has a flushing mechanism. I cooked supper while Pete had a rest in the
evening sunshine and breeze. Next year we’ll park under the solar panel ‘sheds’
for early morning shade.
We put the memory
foam mattress under the other mattress as it was hot there.
Day 7 Fano Italy
Just as we were going
to empty the waste water, an Italian van pulled into the service area and we
watched the guys seemingly squirting water into the van (surely not?) and water
coming out of the bottom of the van so I’ve no idea what they were doing. Pete
filled about four watering cans of water and put it on- enough for showers
later. We headed back to the Autostrada
turning into Fidenza for fuel. After a
coffee stop south of Bologna we had a good run down to Fano. There are always
road works as they are widening the road to three lanes and every year there’s
a bit more done. The man in the toll booth gave me a huge beaming smile when I
gave him some sweeties. It was a little bit cloudy when we parked on the site
once again at the far left next to the bamboos. We had some salad and a little
doze in the shade then we went across the road for a swim. I had my big sunhat
on as the clouds had lifted but a good breeze kept the temperature bearable. We bobbed about close to shore and there was
more exposed pebble beach than last year. We lay about on huge flat rocks then
the Italian man in the van next door to us came to tell us that the van alarm
was going off. Pete hurried back and I followed – being fairly sure that the
breeze had wafted the net curtains and that’s what had caused the alarm to go
off. I cut up a small fruitcake and left it on the table next door as a thank
you. We showered and read then had supper before going for an evening stroll along
to Fano. We had a good time people watching! ( Katie – you would have loved
it!) There were the usual sellers of
mega-tat ( torches, toys and plastic wind up cyclists going round in circles to
the tune of ‘ the Lonely Goatherd’- cycling ‘Sound of Music’ fans would love
that one I’m sure) , flower sellers, people eating out or just cycling or
strolling having a chat as they did. We stopped to watch a beach tennis
session- talk about energetic! We also watched a beach volleyball tournament,
which was very fast and exciting to watch. We paused briefly at a huge
community gazebo set up with music and chairs all round- where people were
sitting watching an empty dance floor in the centre. We did think we might be the first to have a go then we
remembered a) Pete doesn’t dance unless he’s had a few to drink and it’s Irish
music, Wishbone Ash or Bruce Springsteen and b) we’d have looked completely
daft! Common sense prevailed over the alcohol .
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Fano |
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the new Taylormade bike cover |
We had a nice cool
night.
Day 8 Ferry to Patras
We left putting our 7
euros through a slot on the office door. It seems to take ages to get back to
the Autostrada because of the roadworks which take you a roundabout route. We
got to Ancona with only one little traffic queue and we checked in and got to
the port queue with only one van in front of us. There were hardly any
campervans unlike other years. Pete walked to ‘his’ bakery for bread, tomato
pizza and biscuits and came back very hot. I sat still reading and writing my
blog but it was hot hot hot. We got to
the port at 11am and didn’t get on till 2.30. I felt very sorry for groups of
German young people coming off the ferry who had to stand around in the
relentless heat waiting for their tour buses. It is a tedious hot wait and
there’s no way you can get round it- is there? I thought it was time we were
due a ‘window space’ on the boat and the deckhand motioned us behind a caravan-
I was just about to be Miss Mardypants again when the guy gestured for us to
reverse in to a space next to the open window! Perfect! So sitting on my own
settee with a glass of cider over ice watching Ancona disappear, I was a very
contented soul. Pete went walkabout but I wasn’t bothered as we’ve been on this
ship- Hellenic Spirit several times. He came back to report that there were young
people everywhere ( what? Again?) except the front lounge.
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a van with a view |
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Ancona |
They were setting up
speakers on deck by the pool for a party so people sleeping on the deck
wouldn’t have had the quietest of nights. Pete had the idea of a take-away
supper and went up clutching a piece of foil and a plastic bag and came back
with two plates of gyros. Great idea –they were delicious and 8.50 euros each,
a lovely plate of grilled pork meat, chips, pitta, tomatoes, onions and yogurt.
We played tavli ( backgammon) 3-2 to me though that sort of score won’t last.
Day 9 Aginara camp site Glyfa, Greece
We had both fans
running in the night and being at the bow meant we didn’t notice the engine
noise so much. I heard the call for Igoumenitsa so got up to watch the to-ing
and fro-ing of unloading.
I got a
facebook message from my sister,which was good. We had fruit and yogurt for
breakfast and I ventured into the now quiet regions of the boat but came back
to watch the coastline slipping past in the sunshine. We were off quite quickly
and were soon doing a Lidl shop picking up some fresh fruit and veg (and just a
little wine) By 4.30 we were parked in a lovely spot with a seaview at Aginara
after being greeted with a big smile by Angeliki at the gate. The site is much
quieter than normal- there are far fewer Germans here than usual.
We had our first
‘proper’ swim – the Italian swim doesn’t count for me- I don’t ever long for a
swim in Italy but I sometimes dream of swimming here. We went up to the
restaurant and we were made so welcome once more. It wasn’t very busy but we
did had a lovely meal- salad and super tzatziki, pork chops and ‘rollo’- rolled
chicken which probably won’t rank as one of my favourite dishes but they had no
fillet. We had our customary walk by the beach to watch the lights twinkling on
Zakynthos and look at the millions of stars.
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Aginara beach Glyfa |
Day 10 Aginara
A lovely cool night
but we were fooled by the fans- when we went outside it was hot. I enjoyed
myself- yes really- doing the washing. I used two deep plastic trugs from Asda
to compensate for the shallow sinks here and splashed about happily getting
things clean. The washing line looks a bit odd though with over a week’s worth
of pants on it ( yes Katie- I overcame my embarrassment at people seeing my
pants on the line! Hehehe)
Things dry here so
fast and smell so clean- and they don’t need ironing (how much do I hate
ironing?) Pete cycled up to take the passport to the office but Angeliki said
she knows our names now and doesn’t need one…….accepted regulars now eh? He was
away ages chatting- he loves to do it. Meanwhile I was on my second filter
coffee and when he came back I made a fresh pot! We spent time reading the news online and generally pottering
about having toast cooked on the little outside cooker sat on top of the recent
purchase- the camp kitchen- a very useful piece of kit. We eventually made a
move to the beach where the new Swimways swimfloat got it’s first outing. It
packs up smaller that the swimways swimfloat lilo size and is such good fun to
mess about in the sea on. Pete cooked sea bream on the cadac and we played
tavli- he won the set of course.
Day 11 Aginara
Another cool night.
Pete had an internet morning paying bills etc while I had another trip to the
laundry room to wash bedding and towels. There is a washing machine here- I
just like splashing about. We had a salad lunch followed by a lazy time on the
beach. We went to the restaurant which is a little busier and Pete ordered
kouneli stifado( rabbit stew) as Angeliki had told him they were cooking it. They
are ‘growing their own’ rabbits here now and they are kept in a huge netted
area with a massive mound of earth to burrow in. As a former vegetarian, it’s not
for me ( I had stuffed courgettes) but
you can see the logic where food prices are going up and wages are being cut.
Angeliki and Pete talked about pensions being cut by a third in Greece. In
Athens, a primary school teacher we know, had her wages cut from 1200 euros a
month to 580 but the rent and food prices haven’t gone down. It must be very difficult for most Greeks. We had a walk in
the dark round the rest of the site and sat out in the cool and quiet till
late.
I was looking at the
waiter’s notepad last night- he writes down the specials on the back and it’s
good practice for me to try to read it when I came across the word Agginara (
AGGINARA) and he told me it was ‘artichoke’. So the name of the site is
‘artichoke’? I’m not sure.
We had toast then a
cycle to Arkoudi village. We parked the bikes in the shade and I had my first
Greek coffee of the trip. We sat watching workmen tidying up in the square
opposite, a workman’s wagon knock the wing mirror off another van and attempt
to put it back on, and the endless law breaking that is Greek motoring. Arkoudi
has a one way system which is rarely recognised. The prize for the most
potential offences that morning went to the café owner who rode his not very
roadworthy motorbike up the one way street carrying a coffee in one hand ( due
care and attention?) without a helmet. Parking is another source of amusement
to me. I’m quite a law abiding parker and I get anxious if I’m not parked
completely straight so I love to watch the rebels here who just stop in the middle of the road and leave the car
with the engine running while they go into a shop…..and the arguments that
ensue when someone want to get past.
Having had enough
amusement for one day we walked down to the beach and back to the bakery for
rolls and eggs, then across the road to the shop with groaning shelves for
mosquito liquid and a cheap mask for snorkelling. I was a bit worried about
getting the eggs back to the camp as they came in a paper bag but they emerged
unscathed after the bumpy ride back. We had rolls for lunch then went to the
beach where the wind had changed direction and was coming off the sea, stirring
up seaweed and making it ‘bumpy’. We launched the lilo and the swimfloat and
swam out to where it was calmer and clearer for a float about. It was very hot
so I had the Greek old lady look swimming in my big hat and sunglasses- very
comfy. Pete grilled pork chops and I did a ‘George’s ‘ salad- taught to me by
chef George at the Aegean restaurant on Kalymnos. It’s Greek salad ingredients chopped small with a garlic oil and
lemon dressing- it’s very good.
13 Aginara
There was a sort of
mist in the night and the things out on the line weren’t dry. Pete turned the
fans off in the night as it was cool too. We had poached eggs for breakfast and
the German couple in the self build Boxer across the way left as did the Dutch
couple next door. Pete found a euro on the ground but once again left the tin
of ‘Lush’ shampoo in the showers- for the third time. ( I think this bar of solid shampoo from Lush is great for travelling- it does hair, clothes....super stuff.) He’s now got a big bottle
of cheaper stuff so he can see it better and not leave it. We read online that there are huge fires
around Patras so I put a note on Facebook to say we aren’t near there . After
supper we went to the bar for ouzo and talked to Fotis the bar man from Kastro
who chatted and played tavli with Pete.
14 Aginara
We went to the beach
early but I came back as I’d got a stomach ache. New neighbours arrived in the
form of a Polish family with a huge boat. I went back to the beach in the early
evening and floated about on the now flat sea. New neighbours arrived on the
pitch next door around ten o clock at night and it must have been difficult pitching in
the dark.
15 Aginara
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baby swallows |
We got up a bit
earlier and cycled up to Ligia where we had a coffee stop in a very shaded
cafĂ©. There were two swallow’s nests that we could see and probably some we
couldn’t because there were so many swallows about. We watched three baby swallows
hanging onto the nest stretching their wings- it won’t be long before they
fly. We cycled up to Kastro but didn’t
go to Chlemoutisi castle as we spent a long time in there last year. We found a
butcher’s and a bakery and I bought cheese pie and spinach pie. We cycled to
the edge of the village and had a beer mezze in ‘Klodia’ where they have a
lovely garden. We watched a drinks delivery,(health and safely officers would cringe)
and the restaurant being set up for the day. It’s a long downhill from Kastro
past the Roman mud baths at Killini where lots of people where covering
themselves in the smelly black mud, letting it dry then washing it off. I
wasn’t tempted. We came back for cheese pie and a snorkel and I saw a huge purple
jelly fish near the bottom by some rocks
being attacked by lots of fish. We went up to the restaurant for
kokkinisto and souvlaki and as we were last there, talked economy and politics
with the waiters. It seems that trade here at Aginara is 50% down on a normal
year.
16 Aginara
We had another beach
day and I cooked Halki pasta for tea ( On the Greek island of Halki, when we
were veggies, we had this pasta made by slowly cooking down lots of onions and
garlic in butter and oil then mixing it with pasta and grated cheese- it’s simple
but lovely).
17 Aginara
Two more Polish vans
and boats arrived plus a Polish caravan. We had a cycle to ‘Ionian Village’
beach where, because it’s Sunday, there were lots of people and cars. We didn’t
stay, but cycled to Arkoudi which was
also busy. Pete moved the bikes so the man selling honey from his truck could
park without knocking them over. We were just going to have a drink but the
food looked really good in the little café so we had a rocket, lettuce,
pinenut, walnut and sun dried tomato salad with balsamic dressing ( mmm) then
shared a gyros plate and some gavros ( little fish) It was lovely and a good place to watch the ‘new’ tourists that
the camp site staff had told us about…the area has become popular with Russian tourists and though we
saw lots of young women and children, we didn’t see any Russian men. We cycled
back just as it was getting dark and it was a perfect temperature for cycling.
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Arkoudi |
18 Aginara
We woke to the sound
of another Polish van towing a huge boat arriving. The wind had changed and the
sea was stirred up. I wasn’t tempted to go in as I watched a young boy fish out
several purple jelly fish. Pete cycled to Arkoudi for some more Melia rose wine
at two euros twenty for a litre of super organic local wine, it seemed like a
good idea. We packed away most things for an early start tomorrow ……..we’d been
here long enough.
19 Gythion Bay
Campsite, Mavrovouni, near Gythio.
We made a start
around ten ( okay- it wasn’t early!) calling in at Lidl in Ameliada– which had no
left turn into it from the dual carriage way but just after it was a break in
the grass with a ‘no u turns ‘ sign. We drove on looking for somewhere to do a
legal turn but eventually turned left into a disused factory then went right.
As we neared Lidl we saw cars doing U turns into Lidl…this is Greece.
Here's a 'Lidl' bit of information.......you can almost get the same groceries in all Lidl stores...it doesn't seem to matter which country you are in. We stocked up on basics but thought we’d
wait to get veg and fruit in the market in Gythio. We drove down to Kalo Nero
and debated going to see if the camp site in Kyparissia was really closed or
someone had opened it. We’d tried to book a space there but had an email back
to say that it was for sale and they were closed. We decided against and went
across to Tripoli stopping for lunch at
the monument to people who had lost their lives in the war up the twisting road
we call Mam Tor. ( Looking down towards Megalopoli , you can see power stations
and it reminds us a bit of Castleton in the Peak District)
We carried on and went on the A7 new
motorway towards Athens before turning off at Tripoli for Sparti. ( four euros
90 toll at Manari bridge) It was a nice drive down to Gythio through Sparti and
soon we were setting up at Gythion Bay campsite where we’d stayed last year.
Pete was delighted to find a spot where he could put his hammock up. It’s busy,
but not as busy as last year. A Greek family arrived with their caravan and
worked hard setting up their pitch with plenty of tarpaulins to give them shade
. They seemed unhappy about a tree root sticking up so Pete went to lend them a
hack saw but the man had a better plan …….he tied a rope around it and pulled
it out completely with his truck………..! We met Petros and Maria again who we met
last year. We had a celebratory margarita before going to Takis along the beach
for a lovely meal of pork in wine sauce. We were the last people there and talked to Takis
about the usual politics and economy. It’s fascinating to me as Greeks have no
reluctance to talk about how much they earn, how much they pay for electricity
etc whereas we are so reserved as a
nation. We walked back along the beach watching the stars and the wind there
was earlier died down so we sat out watching shooting stars and satellites.
20 Gythion Bay
We had a cool quiet
night. We needed to put a side curtain on the awning for extra shade in the
morning. I did some washing then went to the
beach. The sea was very ‘bumpy’ but we had a splash about. Petros and
Maria invited us to sit and have a drink with them. We learnt about Petros’
pension being cut after he’d waited months to receive it. The talk was of the
crisis of course but it is interesting to have different people’s views on it.
The wind got up again and was very strong so we put more pegs and straps on. I
cooked chicken in the oven as the Cadac wouldn’t light. We said ‘Hello’ to an
English couple who have been living here since Christmas.
21 Gythion Bay
We had an early swim
in a flat calm sea. We cycled into Gythio leaving the bikes by the harbour (
I’m not so confident about cycling round in traffic) and had coffee in the
‘roundabout ‘ cafĂ© we usually go to. It’s a good place to watch the world go
by…..some people were lugging suitcases so we reckoned there must be a ferry
due in . We walked along the waterfront picking up a bit of shopping and
calling at the butcher’s for some pork chops. We got pies from the lovely
bakery at the back of the ‘roundabout’ then cycled to the supermarket near
Mavrovouni for tonic and iced tea. We went to the beach where the wind was
coming off the sea and we bounced about on the waves on the lilo. On the way
back, I spoke to Viv, the English artist living here. She came round later and
we had gin and tonics and a chat with her and Alan about living in their
motorhome and people we both have met.
22. Gythion Bay
It was market day and
Pete loves markets so we cycled into Gythio and had coffee at the same place (
creatures of habit) The market didn’t seem as big or as busy as last year. Pete
bought grapes, onions and beans from one lady and her little girl and the lady
put a huge lettuce into Pete’s bag for free!
He was very happy!. We had a salad lunch and went to the beach where we
watched kite surfers throwing themselves into the air and windsurfers scudding
about on the waves. The vegetables we
bought were fantastic- the courgettes were as soft as butter and the green
beans were so fresh. We watched a young Greek couple put their tent up after walking round the site for almost an hour
before deciding where to put it. They were loaned a hammer as they tried to put
pegs in with a stone……..
23 Gythion Bay
We were woken up by
the same couple repositioning their jeep about fifty times……….! We went for an
early swim and talked again to Viv and Alan. Pete cycled to the bakery at the
top of the hill for fresh bread while I cooked bacon and made the coffee ( a
reward for a big long swim) I did some washing under the canopy of grapes…eat
while you work!
At home, our friend’s daughter was getting married. We had been
invited to Lauren and Mike’s wedding but had already booked ferries. We thought
we would take a photo of us all dressed up holding a glass of wine so we could
send it to them at their wedding reception so we dressed up. The wedding was a
black tie occasion so I made Pete a bow tie from bin liner plastic and turned
his collar up so it looked authentic. I had brought a headband with me so we
did a head and shoulders shot which didn’t show my five pound ‘Factory Shop’
beach dress and Pete’s shorts. Then we took a full view to make them
laugh! We had a giggle doing it too……
We went round to Viv
and Alan’s where they had made some lovely chicken tikka and coconut rice. We
met Hera, the Doberman and Alan played guitar and sang. About 10.30, we went
along the beach to where a rock band had set up and we arrived to them
playing a Pink Floyd number…….super. We
had a drink but didn’t stay too long though it was busy with people eating and drinking. We sat outside to cool down
when we got back then realised it was 1am….a late night.
24 Gythion Bay
We had a swim then took laptops to the bar
where the signal is better so we could have an internet session. We played
tavli and Pete won every game before we walked along the road to the ‘butcher’s
taverna’. There were only two other couples there but when we ordered chops, we
heard them being ‘chopped’ in the kitchen. The food was very good and as it’s
above the road, we had a view of the moon on the sea . We rang Tom and Lucille
earlier and spoke to Lauren about the wedding- she sounded so happy and was
pleased with the pics we’d sent. People who went to the wedding had put some
photos on Facebook so I got to see how lovely she looked.
25 Gythion Bay
|
getting walnuts |
I had a clean and
tidy out. We spoke to Vassilis, our new tent neighbour. We had another beach
afternoon and looked at wedding pictures. Pete cooked bifteki, fasolakia and
fried courgettes with pitta bread and tzatziki for tea and it was wonderful. We
sat out chatting till late.
26 Gythion Bay
Another cycle to Gythio. We had coffee in a different cafĂ© ( 50 lepta more) . We walked up some steps and along some back alleys where improbable timbers supported jutting out house extensions ( a bit like a poor man’s version of York). here's some more photos-
It was very hot.
We’d been told there was a small market today but couldn’t find it and it was
too hot to go searching very far. We bought spinach pie and ‘ Mani Pitta’ ( sort
of a big flat fried salty doughnut which comes with a piece of cheese sliced on
the top) from the very pretty smiley lady in the bakery.
Earlier, in the café,
I’d noticed her standing under the air conditioner in the shop doorway. She was
wearing a pretty long pink dress and she was dancing about a little bit so we
had a little conversation and she laughed a lot. Pete bought a whole chicken
which the butcher cut up ( 6 euros) before we cycled back up the hill to one
supermarket and then down to the next one. We sat for ages talking to Vassilis,
Dora his wife and Mannfried from Germany who had arrived from Finikounda where
Vassilis and Dora had just been. We learnt lots- including the fact that we
were parked under two walnut trees and how to take off the outer skin and dry
them…being careful not to stain your hands..( is that where ‘nut brown’ comes
from?)
Pete cooked half the chicken and it was fantastic- you wouldn ‘t dream
of putting such tasty meat into a sauce, it was so good. The sky was a bit cloudy and people said it
might rain…….
27 Gythion Bay
It was very hot. We
went for a swim and stayed on the beach. Pete brought me some coffee in a flask
( wonderful) Big black clouds built up so we went back to the van and sure
enough, we had thunder and lightning and a little bit of rain.
After the rain, we
went for a cycle ride left out of the campsite. It’s a pity I didn’t take the
camera as the mountains and clouds were lit from behind by a fabulous sunset.
We cycled quite a way before we decided that we should go back as it would soon
be dark. Just after the turn back to Gythio my tyre went flat. I’d got a thorn
in it. Pete cycled back to the camp for the pump ( which we’d forgotten of
course) . It reminded me of last year around Asini where it happened to Pete.
We got back stopping only once to pump the tyre up.
28 Gythion Bay
It’s a full moon
tonight. The thorn in the tyre went, of course, through the seam on the inner
tube so it wouldn’t mend. We had a long chat with Vassilis. I went to the bar
to load my blog onto the internet……..always a bit of an interesting
experience…I never know really whether it has saved or not and when I load
photos, the text moves……I really should do more about learning how to do things
properly! It clouded over again around four o clock. George rang from Athens and
he’s coming to stay tomorrow. We went to the little taverna left out of the
campsite and just over on the right. I wasn’t sure about this at first as only
the family were sitting there but others came later. We had a lovely meal
watching the moon.
29 Gythion Bay
We cycled in to the
market but it was not as busy as the week before and not so much to buy. We had
coffee near the market. George borrowed a car and it broke down so he was going
to try to get a bus from Napflio but had to rent a car as there was no bus. He
arrived late with Georgia, his daughter, and we went to the campsite restaurant
to eat. Vassilis organised a surprise anniversary meal on the beach for Dora
complete with candles in the sand, roses on the table and heart shaped bifteki-
how romantic ! We sat with them later for a drnk and cake while Georgia climbed
the olive tree.
30. Gythion Bay
We went into town for
coffee and a visit to the health centre as George had forgotten his medication.
We spent a long time on the beach so Georgia could play in the water- she swims
like a fish. In the evening we went to Barba Sideris for Kondosouvli ( spit
roast pork pieces) Souvla ( whole pig spit roasted then cut up) and Kokoretsi (
pig insides rolled into a sort of sausage and spit roasted) It was lovely and
quite the nicest meat I’ve had here yet. Pete and George went to the bar as
there was a band playing but Georgia was tired so we went to bed.
swimways swimfloats- a great idea.
31 Gythion Bay
|
Pete bought me a double hammock a few years ago- I didn't want one .....but he did! |
We got up to say
goodbye to Vassilis and Dora – it was lovely to have met them. I cooked fried
eggs for breakfast as it’s Georgia’s favourite then we went to play ‘monsters’
in the sea again. I cooked spaghetti with bacon and ‘secret salami’ for lunch.
Georgia and me went back to the sea and she made some little songs up as we
were playing about on the float….very clever songs! I came back when Pete and
George came down to the beach and did what other campers do – watered the grass
all around our pitch to cool it down. Pete played a children’s tavli game with
Georgia and then we went to Takis’ taverna along the beach.
Everything was
good, Georgia played with other children and when Takis talked to George, they
discovered that George’s cousin is Takis’ good friend….small world. Petros and
Maria also talked to George and they found that they live 500 metres away from
each other in Athens….very small world.
32 Gythion Bay
The fridge was
flashing- the gas had run out. Pete changed the bottle but there must have been
a problem with that 13 tank as it should have lasted all the time we are away. ( When we got back home, we found the full gas bottle was still in the garage! ) I cooked eggs again and George and Georgia left around eleven o clock. We went
down to the bar to have an internet session and we had a musical accompaniment as Al
was putting some songs onto Youtube and was playing inside the games room. I chatted with Dragana- Georgia’s mother and
I was pleased to find that my last blog had saved. We ate lots of fruit on the
beach and just had a quiet afternoon. Pete went shopping while I made carbonara
– this time with feta and parmesan and as he’d bought some cream to put in the
pasta, we kept some and had it with frozen raspberries to follow as a treat. It was very hot (38 degrees) so we put both
fans on in the night.
33 Gythion Bay
We had a cycle into
town to buy a new sun bed as one had broken.
We bought new real fake RayBans for Pete and a cap for me to swim in
from Pete’s favourite shop (- where he bought the double hammock years ago) We found the small market up ‘Butcher’s street’ and
bought more vegetables. Pete cycled back with the sunbed strapped to the back
of his bike and he said I should write that he was heroic…….so I've written it!
We had a fridge clear out as some of the vegetables we’d bought on Friday were
past their best. Pete cooked sweetcorn but that was like wood too..
|
Pete the hero carries a sunbed! |
We had lemon and
coriander cous cous with beans carrots and Sparti sausage. Pete said ‘you can’t
fall out of a hammock’ but I proved him wrong by trying to move over on the
double hammock to watch the stars with him and doing a gentle roll straight
over the side. I wasn't hurt- not even
embarrassed!.
34 Gythion Bay
After we’d spent the
day on the beach, we had a cycle down the little lanes we’d never been down in
Mavrovouni Bay. I didn't enjoy riding along the gravel road where the stones
were very deep but it was interesting to see the houses and five star hotel. Al and Viv came round to be reminded how to play backgammon- at their request- and
I gave Viv a bottle of Avon ‘Skin so soft’ dry oil spray as it’s effective
against mosquito bites and I had a spare bottle.
|
Mavrovouni bay |
35 Gythion Bay
We went for an early
morning swim and I really didn't want to get out of the water – it was so calm
and lovely. We did a slow pack up and went for a last meal at Takis…..where we
will be always know as ‘Forever Fostiras’ ( he used to play football in the
same area as George lives and Fostiras is the local team we’ve been to watch
there) He chatted and we had yet another perspective on the crisis. He is a
business man of course and he just hopes he can keep going and that the banks
don’t foreclose on mortgages. We’d spent a long time talking with George about
what was happening in Athens. He told us how the fascists had got lots more
votes in his own working class area and that people were ready to blame
immigrants for everything. Even some of his friends held views that he couldn’t
believe they could…………people seem to need someone to blame for the problems. He
told us of a guy in the area who didn’t have enough money for the medication he
needed to live and George and his friends had gone round cafes collecting money
for him so he could buy some. There is now 55% of 16-25 year olds without a job
and 25 % of the rest of the population. There are thousands sleeping rough in
Athens. Some of George’s friends have lost their jobs and the government help
is restricted to a small amount for one year if you have been in work for the
previous two years. After the one year- there is no help at all. George has had
to re-negotiate his rent to a lower amount. The landlord was happy to do that
as the flat he has next door to George has been empty for a year…….Everyone we
talk to has something to say about the crisis but no-one can see a solution.
|
Pete and Takis |
|
Camping 'pods' Greek style |
|
Viv |
36 Karavostasi ( not
far from Neo Itilo and Areopolis)
Viv came round to say
‘goodbye’ and we saw Petros , Maria and
Dimitra too. We went to the office to pay our 425 euros for our 18 night stay .
We had a lovely drive to Areopolis and
had Mani pitta and coffee in the square.
|
Areopolis |
We’d had a Mani pitta in Gythio but it was greasy compared
to the lovely light salty fried dough served with a piece of cheese on top. The
coffee shop we went to must be the local place to go for these as everyone
there was eating one!. We had a wander round the back streets to the Museum but
didn’t go in. Instead we went to the supermarket for local wine and the bakery and greengrocer’s. Pete had wanted to
get a basil plant in Gythio but I had vetoed it because it would get spoilt
carrying it back on the bike but next door to the bakery was a really nice
little plant shop with some super basil plants- just the right size. The friendly
old guy who ran the shop picked me a piece of every herb he had and told me the
Greek name for each and I told him which ones we had in the garden at home. He
gave me a plant saucer and lots of big beaming smiles. Pete was really pleased
with the basil plant.
We drove to our usual spot- the field marked ‘free
parking’ past the fish restaurant ‘O Faros’ in Karavostasi.
|
fantastic swimming! |
There were two huge
French campers there already. We parked in the middle with the awning facing
the sea just before an Italian van came. Sofia and her friend came out of the
caravan behind to go swimming and were delighted to see us again. She came out
of the sea very quickly though when the Italian van looked like it was parking
in ‘their’ drive. They have access to their land over the field so it’s best to
park only on the left side. We cycled
along to the right out of the field to our favourite swimming spot and got
there just as a group were leaving so we had it to ourselves. The water here is so clear and the place
between rocks is like a mini fjord so I
can float about without the wind taking me in one direction or another. We ate
some of the super bread from Areopolis with butter and Marmite for lunch and
felt like we’d had a feast , it was so tasty. We went for a swim just in front of
the field but it’s a little more difficult to get in the water there. We went to O Faros for fried courgettes in a
light crunchy batter, tzatsiki , bread toasted with oil on, little chips,
shrimp saganaki and sardines- opened and grilled flat. It was really good food
and the view from there over the bay is wonderful.
37 Karavostasi
We needed to use the
fan as it was hot in the night so I used the inverter . Sofia brought us some
figs and some pears from her garden and I gave her a little Christmas fruit
cake. She came back again with a bottle of wine from their own vineyard- just
as she did last year.
We cycled along the bay and had coffee at Mavro Pirates .
A guy wasn’t looking and reversed into our bikes but thankfully nothing was
damaged. We cycled along to Limeni where there is now a one way system along
the one lane. It’s strange to see how much money there is around here- there is
a lot of building going on and it’s all stone, upmarket houses and apartments.
We had a lovely swim past the second fig tree. It’s too difficult to find words
to describe the clarity and colour of the water here……’amazing’ might do it.
Something- maybe the wind or a passing car knocked my bike over and a passing
Greek guy stopped to pick it up. We cycled back and had sliced tomatoes on
bread for lunch. It doesn't sound very exciting but when the bread tastes home
made and the juice of the ripe tomatoes soaks into it, enhanced by salt and
black pepper, with a little bit of basil on top, it’s food for the gods. The
taste cannot be matched if you do it with sliced white bread and supermarket
tomatoes- not ever!
Pete spent time
taking the outer husks off the walnuts he’d collected with Vasilis....and despite warnings, got brown stained fingers.
|
nut brown fingers...... |
It was a
breezy afternoon and a dark cloud stayed over Areopolis all day. We went for
a swim in the ‘piscina’ –‘our’ pool which is clearly a favourite place for
others to swim. We avoided the cold spots where the water bubbles up from the sea bed ( I think). It isn’t really
cold- just cooler than the rest of the sea. We wondered about the big stone
buildings on the hillside that have been almost finished but left alone for two
years. In the evening we needed a walk so walked along to the end of the road in
the sunset. There had clearly been a lot of damage in the winter which had been
repaired with concrete and the stones had been cleared with a bulldozer. The sunset was beautiful.
|
looking across to Areopolis |
|
abandoned British caravan...it's been there for years |
38. Karavostasi
We found out a bit
more about this ‘field’ from the Greek speaking French guy in front. It seems
to be owned by a lawyer from Sparti. I sewed Pete’s sandals that the boys
bought him that had almost worn through the toe strap and I tried to make my old brown bikini last longer by sewing it.
The bikini sew worked, the sandals lasted another five minutes! We went to O Faros again for dinner.
|
Mavro Pirates |
|
Limeni |
|
swimming in Limeni |
39. Camping Thines
Finikounda
We set off around
nine o’clock and it was already hot. There was hardly any traffic and it was a
lovely scenic drive to Kalamata. We met a bus but fortunately, it was at it’s
turning around point so we only had to wait a minute till it reversed off the
road to turn around. We stopped above Kardamili for coffee and toast with a
fantastic view down to the sea….what
must it be like to be an eagle and see things from high up? We were
briefly joined by a fire crew and spoke to a Greek family stopping to take
photos.
|
above Kardamyli |
We went to look for propane in Kalamata. We’d been told to look on
Athinon Street but we tried two places- Pete crossing the very busy road so
many times- without success so we gave up.
We stopped in Lidl and did lots of
shopping because it’s always more expensive to shop in Finikounda. We waited ages in a garage just by Carrefour
while a guy filled up twelve cans with diesel in the back of his truck. The
garage owner looked fed up but he managed a huge smile when he got sweeties
from me! We stopped on the sea front at Petalidi and had more lovely bread and
tomatoes before going from Xarokopio to Finikounda . Pete drove carefully as
there are many dips and hollows in that road. Our first sight of Finikounda was
from the top of the hill and we felt like we were heading home…..and it felt
like that again when we got to Thines campsite and woke Takis up to tell us
where to park!
|
a resident |
|
Clemens |
|
Michael and Sylvia |
We’ve got a place
with lots of shade and it took the usual ‘wriggling in’ time to park in it. Our
friends who were already here came straight round to see us and it was so good to see them again. We got set up and
went for a swim. It felt cooler than Gythio. There are now brollies and sunbeds
down a wooden walkway to the beach which are free and a sign now for the camp
coffee shop. I cooked some carbonara and had a lazy evening.
***************************
This is where the
very boring stuff starts as we don’t do a lot here except swim, chat, eat, read
and go for bike rides so you can skip this bit unless you need help to go to
sleep……..
*********************************************************************************
40. Thines
We went for an early
swim and the sea was just about perfect- like an empty swimming pool with
hardly a ripple on the surface. The campsite isn’t full but there are only a
few spaces. I did some washing …I love the big deep sinks here. We were invited
to Sylvia and Michael’s for coffee but their coffee machine broke so they came
round here. I lent my coffee funnel to Sylvia as she needs her filter coffee! It was given to me by Katie-
thanks Katie. You made Sylvia happy! Pete talked to Clemens and Martina in the
water- they have both grown up a lot. Pete found two euros in the sea. We went
to Palamidi for dinner where we sat at a table on the grass with a lamp for
light. It’s a new thing this year and very nice. We went to Sylvia and
Michael’s for wine when we came back and laughed a lot with them.
41 Thines
It’s ‘Xronia Polla’
day- the Greek festival for the Assumption of Mary. We woke to church bells, a
priest singing in the distance and the sound of ‘Xronia polla’ being said to
greet people. Pete sent an email to his
friend Andy who came here last year with Carol , offering him the position of
‘Underwater Sculpture Park designer’ as this was what the two of them did last
year, moving rocks under the water…………
Pete brought lunch to
the beach. He made lettuce ‘sandwiches’ – he rolled up large lettuce leaves
around hummus, ham and cheese…..and
interesting new recipe! We went into
Finikounda with Sylvia Michael Martina and Kathi for a walk and a drink.
|
Pete the cleaner |
42 Thines
Pete cleaned the bird
muck from the front of the van- it was expected as we are parked where the
birds roost every night. The ant
population came to check us out too …….We counted 52 brollies or shade
structures along this stretch of beach which I don’t think is as busy as last
year though we didn’t count the camp site umbrellas. We had yogurt and honey
for lunch then I made bifteki when Pete cycled to get mince. I twisted my knee
somehow in the van so had a painful night.
43 Thines
My knee hurt when I
got up but was okay after a swim. Sylvia and Michael came round with a cake
with a candle in and sang ‘Happy Birthday’- that was so nice! I had five cards, some DKNY perfume and two
bars of soap ( buying presents is not one of Pete's strengths!) from Pete. He looked after me all day making me a bacon sandwich
and bringing me a cup of tea on the beach in the afternoon.
|
my bacon and egg sandwich!
I had lots of birthday messages and texts
and a card from Mam and Dad made me a bit tearful, the words inside were so
lovely. We went to To Palamidi for a seafood plate which was so good after drinking peach juice and sparkling wine.
|
44 Thines
I had more birthday
messages on Facebook. We had a quiet beach day then walked up to the restaurant
in Kamaria. Bernhard had organised it so a big group of us walked up to the
house on the hill where we had an amazing buffet meal.
|
Sylvia the official photographer leads the walk up the hill...Martina pretends she's not with us! |
|
lovely food and lots of laughs |
We were so lucky as our Austrian and German friends spoke English and translated conversation for us……..we
had lots of laughs too! We had a cool, much quicker walk back down the hill at
the end of a lovely evening.
45. Thines
Pete brought lunch
down to the beach. We played tavli and I won a set- it doesn’t happen often. We
went round to Ferdl and Christina’s for a drink and met Andreas and Andrea. The
highlight of the day was the Al Mirqab- an enormous yacht- turning up in the
bay and mooring opposite the campsite. It’s one of the largest in the world and
all the people in the campsite watched then went online to check out who it was
that spoiled my view!
46. Thines
Andreas called round
for a chat and talked about driving to Greece. Lots of people are getting ready
to leave the site. Pete watched the football- Man Utd v Everton but the signal
was poor on the computer.
47. Thines
Pete was praised by
Despina for cleaning so often. He just doesn’t like to leave bird droppings on
the van for very long! Sylvia and Michael brought us a cheese pie round after
they went shopping- how kind! Pete read a whole book. We went to Bernhard and
Uschi’s for dinner and had lovely chicken in sauce. I whizzed some frozen
raspberries and yogurt together for instant ‘ice- cream’. We had a very
interesting talk comparing attitudes and customs in Germany and Britain. They
are in awe of the National Health Service- it’s a pity more people in Britain
don’t appreciate how brilliant it is,
even with all it’s faults, it has to be better than paying thousands of euros
for treatment. Even a simple dental treatment is about two hundred euros in
Germany. We had a lovely evening with two very kind people.
48. Thines
Pete was talking
football to Theo- it’s an international language! We had souvlaki from the cafĂ©
then went to Sylvia and Michael’s for a drink with Ferdl and Christina. Another
lovely night.
49 Thines
Pete put covers over
the front of the van after a ‘rainstorm’ of bird mess as lots of birds have
started to roost in the trees. We went to To Karavi for dinner- fried
courgettes circling a hollowed out tomato filled with tzatsiki followed by pork
roasted on a spit. There was so much pork, we took half home with us.
50 Thines
Cold pork sandwiches
for lunch! We went out for a meal to To Palamidi with Bernhard, Uschi, Michael,
Sylvia, Christina, Ferdl and the young people as it was the last night for
some. We had a wonderful evening with Michael telling some very funny stories
which had us laughing till we cried.
|
Mr Smiley -Michael's a great advert for toothpaste! |
51 Thines
It was a sad morning as we said ‘goodbye’ to
Sylvia, Michael , Clemens and Martina as they left for the boat home. The young
ones had slept outside on their last night. Later, Bernhard and Uschi left too.
It always feels sad when they all leave as they are such good campany. We heard
from our Tom who is in England for a friend’s wedding. I made spaghetti
carbonara.
|
the cat we all liked that no-one saw after Michael and Sylvia left...... |
|
Uschi and Bernhard left too |
52 Thines
Takis came to say we
could move to a place on the front but it’s nice where we are – except for the
bird problem- so we didn’t move. Pete instead asked Takis to put up a canopy so
the mess doesn’t land. Pete won a set at backgammon. I felt a bit ‘down in the
dumps’ – I think I was just a bit sad.
Instead of cooking, we went to To Palamidi and that cheered me up. I
don’t really like eating horta- greens- Pete loves them but we ordered horta and
gigantes ( big beans) and putting the two together meant that I didn’t taste
the horta but got some iron in my system. I had prawn saganaki which is little
prawns in tomato and feta sauce….so delicious. It was quite romantic sitting in
the garden there eating by lamplight. When we came back , we walked through
Camping Anemomilos and back along the beach.
The moon looked like a big slice of lemon over the sea.
53 Thines
It was very cool in
the night . Takis came round with a cover and put it up with Pete. It’s lots
better now. We cycled into Finikounda to Gardenia for a double Greek coffee. It
seemed ages since I’d been into town on the bike and I was a bit nervous. Pete
cooked Mani sausage- it’s a local sausage with orange in- it’s very tasty. The
wind was very strong in the afternoon and evening but we didn’t need to take
the awning in- we just closed some windows.
54 Thines
Pete did lots of extra swimming today. He went
shopping and got some lovely bread- ‘miso miso’ half brown, half white. We had
to try very hard not to eat the whole loaf! We cycled along towards Methoni to
Lambas bay where we stopped in the middle of the bay and splashed about in the
huge waves. Pete was like a little boy bouncing about and jumping up and down.
There were lots of sea daffodils- they are such a beautiful flower that grows
out of the sand. We cycled further to the taverna at the end of the bay where
we had lunch- fresh fish and salad. There’s a beach bar too- Destino- with a
pool , sunbeds and cafĂ© but we didn’t stay there. Pete helped Theo move the
beach beds further back from the sea as the tide was high. Pete cooked chicken
and we watched a tv programme.
|
sea daffodils at Lambas beach |
|
Pete jumping about like a little boy!...spoiling my photo!!! |
|
windswept look.....no hairbrush! |
55. Thines
We had a wonderful
early swim. The contours of the beach have changed due to the high tide and
rougher sea. I made hummus- I’d brought some chick peas with me. We had an
evening cycle along the road to Koroni, up the hills as far as the church and
water tower. It’s very high up and the views over the coast and the islands
were stunning in the evening light. We cycled the last bit uphill and as I was
going quite slowly and almost stopping, I started laughing because we passed a
parked car with the door open and Spandau Ballet’s ‘True’ was on the radio……..(
it’s ‘our song’ though the words are terrible, it’s the music that was playing
when we danced together for the first time) Coming back down to Finikounda was
fantastic and exhilarating. We hardly pedalled till we got to Finikounda and
the sun setting behind the coast and sparkling on the sea was magic. When we got back we talked to Gabi and Gerd
next door and he played melodion softly as we ate our pasta puttanesca. The
gentle Austrian polkas sounded wonderful.
|
here she comes! braking hard...... |
|
Pete and Gerd...the music man! |
56 Thines
Oh no! Someone has
taken the buoy away so Pete can’t swim between the two now- he’ll have to find
another marker to show the distance he swims. A flock of birds, black with
white undersides, circled the bay as we swam. We couldn’t recognise them
because of the angle of the sun. Gerd showed me his website for friends- he
has friends who climb on Kalymnos and I saw some lovely photos of the island.
Despina was sitting at the outside table with Voula in the evening and it was
quiet and peaceful so Pete took them a glass of rose wine each and some cake.
They asked us to join them and we were soon drinking ouzo with the family. We
went later to La Foca in Finikounda for the first pizza of the holiday. It was
delicious but maybe next time we’ll have just a small one!
When we got back Gerd and Gabi invited us to
drink with their friends, as it was their last night. We had a good chat with them and Johannes and Heike.
57 Thines
Gabi, Gerd and Kathi
left this morning leaving us with a lot of space in front and a big sea view.
Pete went shopping and a huge German van arrived and parked in front. Theo had a try on Pete’s electric bike and
Despina gave us our glasses and plates back- and about a kilo of tomatoes!
Johannes and Heike came to the beach to say goodbye. That evening, we went onto
the beach when it got dark to lie on sunbeds watching the full moon shining on
the sea….should they be called ‘moonbeds’ at night? It was so lovely. We are so
lucky to be able to do what we do. How many people have ever had the chance to
sit in the moonlight watching the sea like that?
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Kathi |
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so many goodbyes..... |
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Pete being busy thinking... |
58 Thines
59 Thines
A beach day and I
listened to music instead of reading. Pete came back to watch football v
Southampton and Mario kept popping over to check the scores and try to get a
better website for Pete to watch it on. Man Utd wont 3-2. We played tavli and I
went to bed while Pete watched a BBC programme about Azul Nadir then ‘Match of
the Day’……you can tell the football season has started.
60 Thines
We cycled to town for
coffee and spinach pie ( sharing one!) I went to the supermarket while Pete
called at the butcher’s but he was away ages…..he eventually came into the
supermarket to tell me he still didn’t have the chicken because he’d been
drinking beer and eating bread, cheese and cockerel with the butcher! I went
home while he went back to get the chicken and a couple of hours later, he came
back to the camp site. I don’t think that will happen in our butcher’s in
Penistone especially as the butcher had sent him with a big piece of liver ‘
for your wife’! We went for an evening cycle around the back roads of Finikounda, up to Kamaria and Evangelismos, round to Finikes, down to Lambas and back just as it was getting dark. I cooked the liver with onions and gravy while Pete grilled sausage, courgettes and potatoes.
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we didn't know why there were steps in the middle of no-where till I read the sign that says the steps show what the view from the first floor of a house built there would be.................... |
61. Thines
Swim, beach, towels
washed…the German family with lots of children parked in front of us left and
within minutes in came a little yellow
VW camper with five people in. They did put a tent up too. Pete cleaned the
bikes and adjusted his chain and I put the memory foam mattress back on top of
the bed as I’d ached a bit from
cycling. Pete cooked fabulous chicken with pitta.
|
happy chap! |
62 Thines
It was windy so we
didn’t have the usual swim. We did mundane and boring stuff on the computer-
trying to change electricity and gas providers. We saw three buzzards above the
camp and what looked like an eagle. We cycled up to Lachanada which was steep,
carried on up, then down and round to Zizani and down the steep and twisting
road to Grizokampas. It was quite tough for me but we did it. It was worth it
for the views as you can see across to Mani from up there. We had an icy cold
gin and tonic before going to To Palamidi for oven lamb and bifteki. The four
tiny kittens under the hedge persuaded me to part with most of the bifteki-
they are really cute…and really hungry.
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oh my aching knees!I've no idea why I was smiling....you can't see the pain.....
|
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above Lachanada |
63 Thines
We were woken in the
night by cats jumping about on and under the van screeching as they ran about.
The yellow VW van left and was replaced an hour later by a similar van in
silver…a popular place. Pete spent hours trying to work out the best deal to change companies for
electric and gas suppliers. Pete took some English
beer to the butcher’s and came back
with yet more liver and lamb chops. We cycled to Lambas again, this time with a
picnic. We sat under an abandoned palm beach brolly and enjoyed the view and
the sea. We had a lovely meal that night and looked at photos we’d taken during the trip.
64 Thines
An exciting morning-
I defrosted the fridge! Pete finally sorted the gas/electric issue after
ringing Uswitch to get advice. The guy there was really helpful. Juanita and
Peter ( English couple with caravan) came round for a drink. They talked about
Morocca and Spain and their visits there.
65 Thines
Super early morning
swim. We cycled to town and were a long time in the butcher’s talking about
Nestor’s buried treasure and how his grandfather had been told by a French archeologist where it was (?)
and how he had spent his life looking for it as he’d forgotten what the archaeologist
had told him……..The butcher himself had bought metal detectors to try to find
it too. (But why hadn’t the French guy found it if he knew where it was? …I
didn’t ask that question) We went to To Kima for chicken and souvlaki then
Gardenia for the first caramel ice cream of the trip.
66 Thines
Lazy morning- Pete
spent most of it in the hammock. We ate the last of the bacon with egg and
tomato L but had pork chops and kidneys in
brandy and cream sauce. Despina and Takis came to sit with us and have a glass
of wine.
67 Thines
The silver van left.
Ricki and Gerd, the Austrian ‘neighbours’ put their boat together and though we
had considered getting one, I realised that it was too much effort and we
wouldn’t use it very much. We met up with Jane and Kerrigan from Leicester who
are here on holiday. We know them from their work in the National Union of
Teachers and Palestine Solidarity campaign. We’ve met them here before and it
was so good to see them again. They’d had a good flight and they are very
pleased with the accommodation at Panorama Apartments. We some lovely food met
at To Palamidi and shared some lovely food. We had lots to talk about.
|
when Pete cooked lamb chops |
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my annual 'favourite seat in the whole world' photo |
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Rainbow's end- Finikounda |
68 Thines
Pete swam for over an
hour. I went to get binoculars from the van as I couldn’t see him and I was
worried. It made me think about what I would do if anything ever did happen
while we were away. We cycled into Finikounda and met Jane and Kerrigan for
coffee and Pete gave them some fresh figs. It clouded over and I made lentil
soup…..it felt like a soup day. We went to the beach around four o clock then
Pete cooked chicken. We watched a tv programme I’d downloaded .
69 Thines
We had a big swim,
then cycled to Methoni where we went to the bank, got bread and had a coffee.
There was a coach trip in and people getting off the bus were unmistakably British. We went to Dionysos for lamb souvla which was wonderful. We went to
Gardenia and had ice cream and saw Jane and Kerrigan.
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Gardenia cafe |
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Jane and kerrigan |
We tidied up- we were
having visitors! I made some hummus and salad for lunch. Jane and Kerrigan came
round for a swim and lunch. It was a lovely sunny day.
The guys from the
campsite, Mario, Yiannis and some others, started to knock down the bar area of
the café. They are changing it so it will be used more in the winter. We were
told that the wind was going to be
strong so we went to the beach and brought back the sun brolly and beach chairs
as the sea would be high. Pete helped Ricki and Gerd bring their boat higher up
the beach too. It got very windy so we stayed inside and it was dark by eight o
clock. We went to bed then got up again to wind the awning in.
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the wind started...... |
71 Thines
The wind howled all
night and the waves crashed onto the beach. I did some washing but hung it out
round the back of the site while Pete went shopping. The wind was blowing sand
and salt air into the van so we closed the windows. It was Stavroula’s name day
and she brought us some little nut pastries around- how kind! The sea came up over the sand and onto the road
and the sand/ salt mix in the air went everywhere. It got hot in the van but we couldn’t open the windows because of
the sand. We went on the internet and read- a different day to the normal one
here. Pete braved cycling to the shops and I spent the afternoon cooking
stifado and spaghetti bolognaise.
72 Thines
It was raining when
we woke up. Pete put the awning back up as the wind had dropped and we tried to
clean the salt and sand off the chairs but it was too wet. I talked to Katie on
Kalymnos and Tom in South Korea. There was a huge thunderstorm with spectacular
lightning. Pete watched football on the computer.
73 Thines
There was weak
sunshine this morning but it brightened up.
We washed the groundsheet in the big sinks as it was a mess. We walked along
to the end of the beach on very flat packed sand. It made walking easier for
me. The weather has once again reconfigured the beach. The campsite now has
another huge round table as Mario has made it. We went to To Palamidi with Jane
and Kerrigan for more food , wine and chat. The prawn saganaki was delicious.
74 Thines
The sea was calm and
we had the beach to ourselves . I cooked bifteki and onions inside as it was
another cool evening.
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I love the colours after the rain |
75 Thines
An Austrian van
arrived and the man came knocking on the door and told us to move our bikes and
chairs in quite a rude manner. He seems to be a regular visitor but he had no
need to be so rude. They also have a noisy dog. They came over and introduced
themselves later and told us not to even look at the dog as ‘it’s crazy’………it
looked a nice dog but it drove us crazy in a short time and we made plans to
move earlier than we would have done. We went into town for something to eat
and joined Jane and Kerrigan in To Venetikos. It has a lovely balcony
overlooking the sea and the food and company were good.
76 Thines
The sea was flat but
I didn’t swim as it was a bit grey and cloudy. We went to Jane and Kerrigan’s
apartment at Panorama for a swim in the pool and lunch. They have fantastic
views over Finkounda and the rooms are super.
We came back to swim and tidy up as we’ve decided to leave tomorrow. We
went to To Palamidi for a last meal there with Jane and Kerrigan. We’d had a
lovely time in Finikounda which was made even better by the people we met there and the friends we see there too.
77 Methoni
78 Methoni
We have a nice pitch here with views…..and views
of the caravans closed up for winter. It feels a bit strange but everything is
working and we like Methoni. The cleaner came round to collect five euros. We
went for shopping and saw the Autotrail again so we had a lovely chat with the owners, Margaret and Mike Mitchell. We told them about the campsite and she had
read some of the things I’d written on the internet. We went to the ‘Everything’ shop- a little hardware shop that has
almost everything you need. We bought a metre of shower matting to cover the
space between the two front seats as there is a little gap that attracts dirt.
We went to the café opposite for internet and coffee. When we got back to the
site, Margaret and Mike were there , set up and doing some washing and they
were happy. We were sitting in the van when the guy from last night came over and invited us to
eat with him and his friend in the caravan in the corner. We were delighted and
later on we went into their caravan to eat. The caravan outside looks very
ordinary and old but inside it was super! There were lots of little wooden
cupboards, lovely lighting and lots of cushions…and just a little bit kitsch.
The table was all set and we had ouzos with Dimitris and Aris from Patras. We
had Gemista ( stuffed vegetables) that Dimitris had cooked, with wine and cake
too. We had a fantastic evening , laughing so much. We cleared up the misunderstanding of the night before. Aris had
asked me if I knew where the key was- not because he didn’t know where it was
but to tell me where it was hidden so we could use the gate! Their families have been coming to this site
for many years and we learned a lot. And laughed a lot more!
79 Methoni
And still we haven’t
moved! We are comfortable and for five euros, it’s cheap. Aris told me that the
cleaner asked for 2 euros in August when there were a lot of people there but for five euros now. The guys came over with Greek coffees for us! It was so nice to
sit in the sun and chat. They had a look in the van and liked it. Pete went for
a swim and I looked for Olympia campsites as we’d planned to go to Gialova but
the guys had been there the day before and they said there were lots of
mosquitoes and we just didn’t fancy being bitten. Gerd had also told us that
his friends had had their caravan broken into while they were in a café there-
they could see the caravan but the thieves had gone round the other side and
stolen things from it. Aris and Dimitris said that Dimitris wanted to cook
again and they wouldn’t let us take them for a meal. We had an evening walk
into town to get cakes and see the sunset behind the castle (7.36) . It was
amazing to see the castle walls edged with golden light.
Margaret and Mike had
moved their van nearer us as they had connected to a broken electricity
box. Dimitris made little bread/pastry
rolls filled with feta and basil which were absolutely delicious. Then we had
spaghetti with huge chinks of meat cooked in a wine sauce……and he made it in a
pressure cooker! Dimitris ‘fast food’!!!! What a super cook! Pete brought
sparking wine and cakes but when he opened the wine, it went everywhere! But
Aris and Dimitris just laughed even more. I asked them why they had invited us
to eat with them and said that we could
have been axe murderers……….more laughter!
Another lovely night.
80 Methoni
Aris and Dimitris
brought coffee over again and they had a look in Margaret and Mike’s Autotrail
Navajo. Margaret and Mike are moving back to the harbour for their last day
here as it’s easier for Margaret to get into the water there. Pete learnt a lot
from Mike who has the van kitted out with everything to make life easier for
Margaret who uses a wheelchair. Margaret decided she wanted to take Dimitris
with her to be her chef! How lovely it is to meet people who don’t let life and
disabilities get them down but travel, meet people and laugh a lot.
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Pete supervises, Aris advises and Dimitris does the work! |
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Dimitris...'eat something' Raptis |
We helped
Aris and Dimitris pack the caravan away for winter by moving it to a more
sheltered place, said goodbye and thank you to them and that we hoped we would
meet again.We went to the café opposite O Nikos to watch football ( I
know…..not something you should be doing while the sun’s shining) We met some
more English people there who live here for part of the year or all year round.
We went back to the site for a shower and a change before going back to O Nikos
for souvlaki and pork chop.
81 Camping Diana ,
Olympia
82 Aginara Beach camp
site Glyfa
( again)
We had an early swim
in a flat sea then ate eggy bread because I'd broken two eggs during the drive there. I’m trying not to use the gas as it’s low
and we’ll need it for travelling back where there’s no electricity. We spent a
long time on the beach with a sunset ouzo and orange. I washed bedding and towels. We went out the restaurant for dinner
and had super little courgette
fritters, cauliflower stifado and rabbit stifado. Pete watched football on the
internet.
84 Aginara Beach
We had a good sleep
but there is a crying baby here who cries a lot. There was a problem with
electricity in the area so we cycled to Arkoudi. We had a coffee in our usual
spot on the corner of the square. A man stopped his car in front of the café (
that’s usual) and spoke to a man sitting on another table. They were arguing
about whether we were German or not and were quite surprised when I said we were
English. The conversation went on for a while then Constantinos- the guy in the
car- asked Eleni, the coffee shop owner, what we were drinking and paid for our
coffees! I asked him why but there wasn’t an answer that I could
understand…..We saw Mario , who is a waiter at the restaurant at Aginara but
he’s finished now for the summer as there aren’t many people there. We swam
again and saw loads of little fish jumping in front of us. The old chap at
Camping Diana said that the Ionian sea is warmer than the Aegean sea at this
time of year and it feels like he’s right.
|
towards the sunset and Arkoudi |
We cycled along to Arkoudi for our
evening meal where we had coffee. We had rocket and marouli salad, chicken and
gyros. It was wonderfully tasty and the cycle back in the dark was fine with me
using the head torch as extra light though there was a moon.
85 Aginara beach
We had a fantastic
swim in the flattest sea ever- just perfect. The van with the crying baby left
and you could almost here the collective sigh of relief coming from the rest of
the campsite. I was on my own on the beach for quite a while when Pete cycled
to Arkoudi for salad. We did a slow pack up and went to the restaurant hoping
for more courgettes but there wasn’t a lot of choice and no courgettes.
86 Patras and Ferry
to Ancona
We had a last swim
and left just after 11am. We went to Patras Lidl and Aris and Dimitris came to
meet us there. We all drove along the beach road south to a lovely little
taverna where we got parked easily. ( I forgot the camera!) We had a super lunch, chips, fresh kalamari
and gavros, salad and kolokeftedes.
They brought us gifts of wine, liqueur, sweets and loukomia- all local
produced. We gave them a bottle of sparkling Saumur to throw over the
furniture! Maybe this time they’ll get to drink more than one glass each this
time as Pete’s not opening it and throwing it about. They are so sweet and
kind. They kept to our ‘must get to the boat by 2pm’ timetable though when we
said goodbye, we went for diesel and had to wait ages while the tanker filled
up the petrol station’s tanks! We learnt from a waiting lorry driver that he
doesn’t go through Switzerland and few lorries do as the government charges one
euro for every kilometre! We got to the
ferry office and booked in easily. We were checked by security guards though
the lorry in front had to go off to be searched further as they couldn’t see
right inside. Pete drove to the front- no British queuing with this man. When
we went to go on board, an officer checked the tickets and said we had the
wrong ones as we were over two metres high. I argued, unsuccessfully, that they were the same tickets coming out
and no-one said anything but he said we had to pay 43 euros more so he took the
ticket and the money and said to come to reception later. We made some people
smile, security guards and deck hands by giving them sweeties. We were put
right at the back, a noisy place but near the shower and loo but this time there’s
not much of a view…..well, you can’t have everything and we had a great view coming
out. There weren’t many camper vans on but there were lots of buses . The ship
was very busy with lots of young people from Slovenia and Germany who were
travelling from Zakynthos on package holidays and they were everywhere on the
upper decks. We retreated to our van and watched ‘The Kite Runner’ on dvd. It wasn’t hot in the night but it was a bit
noisy so we shut windows and skylights .
87 We had a long lie
in- the skies were grey so we were in no hurry to get up. I caught up on my
blog though I couldn't upload it. I made some sandwiches for the next part of the journey. We left the boat an hour after arriving in Ancona . The rain started just after Rimini and didn't stop until after Milan. We had lots of music to listen to on the way.....
The traffic was not too heavy but the rain was!The sheet lightning lit up the mountains and lakes and was quite
spectacular. It was 12.30am when we got into Switzerland and Coldrerio services where we were going to stay overnight but there was a problem- it was closed! We had no choice but to carry on another half an hour to Bellinzona. The next problem was that the fridge wouldn't work on gas- it stuck on 12 volt which meant it wasn't cooling unless we had the engine on. The castle around Bellinzona looked very pretty lit by lightning and floodlights.
88 Stenay
It wasn't raining when we woke up but there were amazing low cloud formations in the valleys. We saw an English van and when we pulled in for coffee at Lucerne, it pulled in behind us. Annie and David from Bideford came over for a chat- they said they hadn't seen any English people for weeks. We then went up the German side of the river from Basle to Briesach . We had a look at the closed campsite but didn't stay at the stellplatz there as we had planned because the fridge still wouldn't work on gas and we thought it might work if we had electric hook up so after stopping at Colmar Le Clerc for shopping and fuel, we headed over the Col (949 metres high) towards Stenay. I tried a different route and turned off south of Metz and went via Ars and Verdun. It was a nice route but no quicker than the usual one. We got to Stenay about 7pm . The fridge still didn't work so we transferred the contents to the portable fridge we have. We had a welcome gin and tonic and tarte Alsacienne and an early night.
89 Home
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prawns! |
We set off at 9.45am though we couldn't use the showers and toilets on the aire side of the river as they are being improved. A lady came to collect the camp fee but my French suddenly went out of my head and I could only think of the Greek words...how embarrassing We stopped in Le Nouvion woods for coffee then via drove via Douai and Lille to Auchan in Calais then down to the port. We had to pay extra because we were two days early for the boat ( happens every time!) but we sat waiting for the ferry eating our customary prawns and salad with fruit tarts- delicious! The ferry crossing was quiet and we were one of the first off as we were outside the car deck- a first. Pete drove to Leicester on quite quiet roads and we stopped there for a drink before driving the last miles home- listening to the football game on the radio to pass the time. We got home around 12.30 am. We went in the cold damp house and I tried to put the heating and hot water on and all the power went off! Welcome home! We went back into the nice warm van to sleep.
The next morning, we looked around our lovely garden and saw the birds arriving to feed and thought about how lucky we are to have good friends who look after the house and garden for us and how nice it is to have a lovely home to come back to..............the end of another fantastic trip to Greece.