Penistone to the Peloponnese again 3

Day 12 Aginara

I forgot to write that Yiannis tried my electric bike yesterday- and loves it! It’s strange how  everyone who has a ride on it comes back with a smile on their face. Pete has collected driftwood and sticks and had his first attempt at making a frame for a mirror- it’s not as easy as he thought but he seems pleased with the result. 

We had another chat to our German neighbours ,leaving tomorrow in their VW. What lovely people. We went to eat at the very quiet restaurant- lamb in the oven and chicken which went very well with the rose wine and 2 ouzos on the house. Now for another first- we’ve been to this site so many times and never , ever been to the bar that sits amongst flowers near the beach. I’ve no idea why we’ve never been- just never fancied it I suppose. Well, we went after our meal and it was lovely! It was so pleasant to watch the lights of Zakynthos twinkling across the water, the fireflies dancing , and the beautiful moon. ( Mind you, several fireflies were eaten by swallows zooming past but that’s nature for you) We talked to an older guy who works in the bar- he lives in Kastro and hasn’t been to the castle for years so I showed him my photos. It was much cooler in the night.

Day 13  Camping Kyparissia, Kyparissia

We set off early for Kyparissia  but didn’t do our usual stop for shopping at the A and B supermarket ( closed) or stop at Kaifa Lake for coffee. The road was quiet. There’s a new receptionist at the campsite as Nikos has retired  but Apostoli was very good, explaining about the site and facilities- he didn’t know we’d been there a few times. We got set up in the area known as the bar- on grass, next to bamboos and about ten metres from the sea. We’ve got a lively bunch of cicadas who lie to balance on the awning strap for company. We had a lazy internet afternoon in the shady, breezy spot before going to the next beach ( Trefylias) for a swim and a float about though it was a bit like being on a roller coaster with the big waves rolling in. we had the beach to ourselves. We watched the sun sinking into the sea- fab sunsets here- then walked for a least a minute to the restaurant  to order a salad, souvlaki and pitta. The guy who does the grill here does a really good job. We had Patsouras rose wine to go with it and sat under the trees watching the sky change colour. We caught up with some phone calls and texts to England and Greece.

Day 14 Kyparissia

We’ve put the white curtains with ties up on the awning to give us some morning shade. Pete made toast, trying out the Camping Chef new kitchen ( £20  reduced at Asda in the winter) He found out it’s quite fierce and fast!

We cyled up to the square and had coffee, watched the  comings and goings, then went poking about the little shops. There are so many little ironmongers and handy bits shops- Pete is in his element and isn’t having withdrawal symptoms  from the lack of a Wilkinson’s shop. Another first- we went to buy a lovely little basil plant ( good for keeping away mozzies) and found  a secret garden – well, garden centre, behind the shop. What a lovely green oasis and we’ve never seen it before despite walking past loads of times. The chap there was really nice and we had the sort of Greeklish conversation I resort to when I don’t know the words………I dissuaded Pete from buying an olive tree ( his didn’t manage the frost this winter) as I couldn’t bear the thought of travelling with it in the way. He did buy some fish, fruit and salad- the tomatoes are so delicious. We went right along the next beach and the one after so Pete can indulge his passion for skinny dipping as it’s an accepted place to do it. He took garden shears with him so he could get rid of the scratchy bits off plants on the cliff path as well as a large plastic bag so he could pick up any plastic bottles and rubbish- good man!

We had the fish grilled for tea with ‘George’s salad’ ( George from the Aegean restaurant on Kalymnos makes a wonderful salad with garlic, lemon and oil and it’s my favourite salad) Pete toasted tortillas on the Cadac grill  and they were great filled with salad. I updated my blog  and sent a bit of an emotional email to my Dad trying to encourage him to eat and get active again after his bowel cancer operation.

Day 15 Kyparissia

It was very cool  in the night. We cycled left out of the camp along to the blue flag beaches

were lots of people go , looking for a little cove to ourselves. We cycled past the port which is being gentrified- new grass area, buildings renovated…looking very smart. We went to check a fig tree we know but it’s too early for figs yet then cycled  back as there was nowhere that took our fancy for swimming. So off we went to the usual beach and when we got back it was after seven o clock. Salad Nicoise for tea.

Day 17 Kyparissia

We didn’t hear the sea from our bed when waking up this morning- partly because of the noise of the church bells and partly because it was absolutely flat calm. We swam opposite the van and saw two cyclists from the site push their bikes along the sand and up a little lane which we’ve never explored. Of course we had to find out where it went. It was a steep stony track to start with that leads to the Apollo Art Hotel and through olive groves to the main road. We saw the railway that is now overgrown since Greece shut down a lot of its railways in January. We walked back then Pete cycled along to the archeological site where last year he met the archeologist and she told him about the Roman ruins they were unearthing. They hadn’t many finds last year and the dig had started when the water park was being demolished. She wasn’t about but there were more walls and building footprints  to see and it looks like ongoing work.

 

Day 18 Kyparissia

There was a howling gale in the night so we got up to put the awning in. We put it out again this morning though the wind is strong. We cycled up to town  and went to the Atlantik supermarket but sadly it’s no longer a supermarket- just a half empty shop. It seems like the out of town Lidl and Carrefour must have taken the trade. When we got back- the awning got up in again as the wind got up even more. Pete went round the headland for a swim  under strict instructions from me to be careful  but came back dry clutching two carrier bags full of rubbish that the sea had thrown up. He’d wisely decided not to go in, in case of undertow.  We went over to the grill for a meal- the spaghetti carbonara here is really good ( 6 euros)  Greek people were sitting in the garden in front of the bar enjoying the wind but it felt rather blustery.

Day 19 Kyparissia

The wind died down in the night and I had a big cleaning session. Pete went to the bike shop in town as his back tyre kept going flat. He came back with a new tyre , inner tube, greased and checked over for 25 euros so he was happy and the bike guy was pleased to see him- we had the bikes respoked here last year for less than £50. We walked to the far beach and were delighted to see a small fox scurrying off through the shrubs. Another first for here! Pork chops and veggies for tea. Pete spent ages getting pine resin from Aginara off the front of the van- note to self- don’t park under pines!

Day 20 Kyparissia

We cycled to the market- always worth a look to see the people and what they are selling. Pete got some new shorts as he’d split his ancient favourites climbing down from the fig tree yesterday when he was cleaning. I bet they don’t get put in the bin though….( he's wearing them as I write)

Our old beach brolly lost yet another spoke yesterday so we treated ourselves to a strong one and had a laugh getting it back to the van on the bike! Pete bought a whole chicken which the butcher chopped into pieces- they cut meat so differently here- and I thought it was a daft idea to get so much but he cooked  it all on the Cadac with sliced courgettes and new potatoes while I did green beans and carrots. It was really good. I had very newsy emails from Katie and Lucille which was lovely.

Day 21 Kyparissia

We eventually got the maps out today- been going to do it all week but it’s so easy to be last here. It was flat calm and I swam from the ebach outside the site to the next beach while Pete walked along to meet me- a big swim.  We went along the far beach later and Pete’s good planning with the chicken meant a quick tea of chicken salad. We had a look on the net at stopovers, places to stay if we went to Athens to see friends etc. Decisions, decisions….how do people who travel all the time ever decide where to go? We'll check with friends in Athens to see when they have free time then decide when to go.

Day 22 Kyparissia

We had a disturbed night as it was windy again but we didn't need to put the awning away. I washed bedding in the huge sinks they have here- I quite like splashing about doing the washing here. ( No ironing either so I don't have a pile of it sitting like I do at home)

Lazy day looking at maps, going to the beach (- too bumpy for me to go in) and eating gavros ( small fish) at the restaurant.

Day 23 Kyparissia

We woke to an unusual noise- it was rain on the roof! Pete got up and put things away under the awning and I closed the rooflights but it didn't last long. It made everywhere smell fresh.  We cycled up to town, did some shopping and had beers with mezze at lunchtime in a street cafe bar under plane trees. There were lots of old guys sat putting the world to rights while we drank beer and ate all the lovely little bits on the plate- cheese, mini cheese pies, keftedis ( meat balls) olives, chips, pork pieces, salami....mmm.

When we got back the wind started up again, the awning went in and so did I! I slept the afternoon away....then we made definite plans for the move tomorrow.

Penistone to the Peloponnese - again 2

Day 7 On Board the Anek ferry  ‘Hellenic Spirit’

We set off quite early back down the autostrada to Ancona ( it takes ages going along the coast road though it’s an interesting drive). We emptied waste at the services before the Ancona Nord turn. I got checked in really quickly at the Superfast desk and was given a camping on board notice for Anek ferries – seems that Superfast have been taken over by Anek. We we down on the dockside well before eleven but so were lots of others. It was very hot on the docks and the loading took ages so we didn’t leave Ancona- on the Anek ferry Hellenic Spirit- till quarter to three. We followed a caravan on which had to reverse into a space at the edge of the camping deck and we thought we’d have no chance of a seaview but we were sent forward and got a nice spot one row in from the ‘window’. The boat was packed tightly with vehicles. We had a walk round the ferry decks but we’ve been on the ferry before and the only thing of interest to Pete was the price of spirits in the shop ( expensive) and for me, the places people choose to set up their sleeping arrangements. Those in the know seem to manage to find floor space in air conditioned quiet areas whilst others sleep out on the hot , sticky deck area. We retreated to the peace and quiet of the van, had salmon salad for tea and played backgammon.

 Hellenic Spirit in Ancona

                                                                         

Day 8  Arrival in Greece and Aginara Beach Camping

We were woken by the early calls for people to go back to their cars for arrival in Igoumenitsa but didn’t hear much engine noise as most people left the ferry. We had showers and waited for the boat to get to Patras watching Kefalonia and Ithaca slip past in the hazy morning light. We got a surprise in Patras though- we arrived at a brand new port! It is south of where the old congested port area is and had only just opened. It has designated parking ( unheard of!) an entrance gate with security and high fences. We followed lorries out of a guarded gate along the usual road where police stopped traffic to let ferry traffic out. We went straight up a new bit of road onto the New National Road when we realised that coming out of the new port meant that  we had missed our shopping spot at Lidl. We came off the National Road at junction 4 and went back down towards the coast and found the Lidl we usually shop at. We did a ‘big shop’ and then it didn’t seem so far to Gastouni where we turn off for Glyfa and Aginara beach. We filled up in Gastouni at a cost of 1.42 per litre- as cheap as we’d seen it. There were at least five petrol stations along the road that had closed down since last   year.

Angeliki greeted us smiling at the flowery gate ( an arch covered in bouganvillea). It’s always tricky to choose a place to camp here as there are so many nice spots but access to some is restricted by our three metre height and the overhanging trees. We found one with good shade, set up quickly and headed to the beach- all of a minute’s walk- for a swim but after the first delightful long awaited dip in warm clear water, Pete went back to get the brolly, lie beds and the new Swimways springfloat . We broke the other one after three years of sterling service and I’m not sure that it was meant to have two sturdy adults on it! It’s like a lilo but with netting in the middle so you only blow up the pillow part and the edge. It folds into a circle too so it doesn’t take up much space or require much ‘puff’ to inflate it. One of our best spends ever! We floated about on it eating nectarines- saves getting juice all over you. We stayed at the beach till well after six then pottered about putting up washing lines etc before showering and going to the restaurant. There was much hand shaking with the staff and smiley greetings there. Pete’s beef stifado was excellent, my pork chop was succulent and the rose wine tasted faintly  of strawberries.Two ouzos on the house rounded off a lovely meal.

 Aginara

Day 9 Aginara

We slept till 9am. We took the memory foam overlay off the bed and put it under the mattress as it seemed to be holding our body heat and making it too warm in the night. We also put the quilt away!

We had an early swim in flat calm water. The new dive masks are wonderful- they don’t fog and are really clear but in my haste to get them from the internet, I read reviews but didn’t check that they had nose pieces so I can’t manage with mine at all L. We had salad , brie and stilton for lunch. I had an internet session but couldn’t upload my blog as it was blocked as being a ‘social networking’ site. No rush_ I’ll do it later. We tried the new outdoor cooker today ( £20 from Asda) and it works a treat so we had spaghetti bolognaise ( very Greek). It saves me getting hot cooking indoors. I read about the new ferry port at Patras on www.motorhomefacts.com.

what a lovely swimming pool! Aginara beach.

Day 10 Aginara  

For the second morning running, a large bird had left it’s calling card on the bonnet. Pete was not amused. It was such a big sh*t that Pete decided it was an Elephant Albatross! We cycled into the village of Arkoudi and it was very pleasant to have coffee in the square  at Café Mambo . We went to the nice bread shop and I bought a cheap dive mask. The afternoon passed quickly with swims, trying the new mask and Pete collecting driftwood sticks to make three mirrors this year. I made a mirror last year with drifwood and it looks so nice, Pete thought he’d do some more. We had grilled sweetcorn, celeriac remoulade, salad and pork cutlets for tea. We got to three- three playing backgammon...tense!

Day 11 Aginara

Chemoutsi Castle - and me in the perfect cycling gear.

We set off for Chlemoutsi Castle- or Kastro as it’s known- a castle on a hilltop which can be seen for miles around. We’ve driven past it but never been in it. Angeliki at the gate couldn’t believe we were mad enough to set off uphill in such hot weather……….but ‘mad dogs and Englishmen’ and all that. We got up the hill to Loggia and stopped for coffee. It was really pleasant sitting under the deep shade of trees that had been formed into a canopy, listening to locals chattering whilst being assailed by swallows who have two nests under the eaves. Somewhat reluctantly on my part, we turned left towards Killini , admiring the views, listening to the chirruping of crickets and smelling the wonderful herby smell of Greece. We took a right towards Kastro then the right fork up the hill, then a left fork in the village up the last big pull to the castle. I’m  lucky- I’ve got an electric bike so on went the electric to get me up hills. We sat in the shade a while as six miles uphill had taken its toll on Pete. We paid our three euros each to go in to the amazing castle currently being renovated with European funding. The museum is small but has wonderful pieces of pottery with almost original colours. We watched workmen putting up timbers to retain the arched roof. We were so glad we came after  all those years of not bothering. We cycled into the village and stopped for lunch at Taverna Klodi  which has a pretty garden. We had salad and souvlaki pitas and fantastic cold beer served in big ceramic pots. We were offered melon too and we couldn’t refuse the dark pink cold chunks though trying to eat it without dribbling was a hard job- so I dribbled!

Penistone to the Peloponnese - again

Greek Trip: Penistone to the Peloponnese again July

The excitement of planning this trip had got to me by Sunday when we got the van out to pack it ready for the ‘big annual outing’. I was determined to be as organised as possible so I spent hours reading other people’s blogs, hints and ideas on www.motorhomefacts.com - a treasure trove (with a few lumps of coal in) .

We’d heard from friends Katie and Stewart touring the Moselle region of France so slightly changed our normal route to meet up with them.  So here we go again………

Day 1  The Black Horse Monk’s Horton. England

We set off around 10am and drove to Milton Keynes to see Pete’s 96 year old aunt who doesn’t recognise us anymore, doesn’t speak but we passed the time talking to her and getting smiles and nods. She hasn’t changed from the last time we saw her but it’s a bit sad to see a once active woman sitting in a chair like that. She is very well cared for though. We then headed for Dover via the Black Bull at Monk’s Horton  ( off Junction 11, M20) where Harry the landlord offers free overnight parking if you eat there. It was no hardship to eat there either! The menu is extensive and very different from the usual pub grub. They have a website which says they have a caravan site with showers and hook up but we didn’t see anything resembling one except for a campervan parked in a field behind. We parked on the big car park and had some food and drinks but the migraine that had been threatening all day took over so it meant an early night for me and time for Pete to nurse his leg which the pub dog had bitten- not exactly a warm welcome! It rained.

 The Black Horse pub

Day 2 Aire at Stenay, France

We set off about half past seven and despite road works , were in Dover for just past eight so plenty of time to park up in the ferry queue and cook breakfast. This year, the staff were coming round checking that people had headlamp deflectors on , carried a warning triangle and had a reflective vest. The crossing was swift and smooth ( Seafrance) and soon we were merrily bowling along accompanied by The Mavericks on CD – our usual musical start to the holiday . We headed out of Calais, down the St.Omer/ Paris peage for a quick start. We turned off at Cambrai and took the N43 towards Charlesville Mezieres. It’s a lovely route through villages and long straight roads edged with trees.

 We like to stop just after Le Nouvion where there’s a stretch of road through a forested area with a picnic spot and a friterie ( chip shop!) . We’ve never stopped here when the friterie has been open so my joy knew no bounds when I saw it was open ….so off I shot like a startled rabbit clutching my chip money…oooh and the utter heaven of a chip butty  was mine…. We carried on to Charlesville Mezieres  and when we had to wait a while for roadworks, Pete changed into his shorts- summer starts here…..I did ask what he would do if it rained but he said ‘I will brook no rain’ …whatever that means! ( He’s posh you know) We took the Verdun/ Metz road turning off at Douzy towards Verdun to stop at Stenay. The aire at the Port du Plaisance there is very convenient for loo emptying, filling with water, etc. and an overnight stay. There are showers and it’s a pretty place next the river and canal and town. It’s been organised this year into plots as it was always a bit haphazard before.

 

 the aire at Port du Plaisance                                   

It costs seven euros a night including hook up and free showers. Pete went off for a cycle while I ‘blogged’ with a cuppa. We counted eight British vans there.

 

 

Day 3  Camping D’Ill, Colmar.

We left Stenay travelling towards Montmedy and the  643 towards Longuyon and Longwy, making a slight detour into Petange in Luxembourg for cheaper diesel ( 1.14 euros). It was a very small detour taking us to the A13 then A25 to Thionville  then on past  Metz, Nancy, and St Die. We opted for our usual route ‘par col’ ( over the top) instead of the tunnel route to Colmar.

We usually stay at the aire in Kaysersberg , just outside of Colmar . It costs two euros to park for the day and four euros for overnight with loos, emptying and filling point, a short walk into town where there are shops, a supermarket for diesel, some good cycle tracks, a castle to explore and lots of places to eat and drink. It’s a beautiful little town with fabulous tall wood timbered buildings in narrow cobbled streets. It’s really picturesque with a river running through, storks on the roof tops and flowers everywhere, but we wanted to meet up with Katie and Stewart, our friends who were doing a tour of the Moselle area and thought it might be nicer to be on a site for two nights so we could pitch up on grass next to each other. So we carried on through Colmar, taking the Freiburg road to Camping D’Ill . The site is lovely, right next to the river with loads of room, about four blocks of showers/ loos spread through the long site and  a restaurant. Lots of French people came to eat at the restaurant in the evening , probably because the terrace overlooks the river and the food’s good- though we didn’t try it as the barbecue chez Katie and Stewart was on. The rain came down heavily and we ate inside which wasn’t quite wasn’t quite how I’d imagined our evening but it was lovely just the same. We chatted  and tried to catch up with each other’s travels but there was too much to talk about for one evening.

the site by the river Ill.

Day 4 Camping D’Ill Colmar

It rained all night and first thing, Stewart and Pete did their Good Samaritan bit and lent grip mats and brute force to  a motorhome stuck in mud. I missed all the excitement as I was in the super clean shower. After breakfast, we all cycled into Colmar on marked cycle paths, past Lidl and LeClerc  to the town centre. The old town is so like Kaysersberg on a bigger scale- there were even storks. The timbered buildings dated back  hundreds of years and the sunshine lit up the buildings, the flowers and fountain, and glistened on the canal.

 riverside

      

among the fabulous town buildings                                                                      

The pristine covered market was a veritable foodies’ heaven – we bought bretzel- sort of bread dough pretzels with onions and cheese. We walked round looking up at all the amazing buildings- so much to see. We came across Little Venice where we walked along the canal and were amazed to see a coypu gliding by with it’s head  just above the murky water. It got out onto a step and groomed itself while we watched, fascinated. We’ve never seen one before.

Apparently the little monkeys waste 80% of the plants they eat- bad guys! I was trying to upload a video of this one but got fed up waiting for it to upload.........

We stopped at a café for beer and coffee then cycled back via Lidl and then LeClerc where Pete treated me to my favourite, raspberry tart. I had a bit of a problem walking but overcame it to go and see the heron in the river and the stork that was stalking (!) about the site…….we went so close to it and it seemed unperturbed by us.

look like it's got a carrot stuck on its face!

 

We had a lovely meal- this time outdoors and attempted a catch –up  but both couples still have travel tales to tell………….and I showed my Cuba pictures and no-one fell asleep so they can’t be too boring…………

Stew and Katie

Day 5 Fontenellato , Italy

So, saying goodbye to lovely friends, we headed for LeClerc, a fill of diesel  ( 1.27 euros per litre) and some shopping. We headed off south and went a long easily till we came to the queue for the Gotthard tunnel . It took an hour from the  queue at the northern end to get through. We saw snow on the peaks.We stopped at three o clock for a late sandwich lunch, fuelled up again at Somaglia services ( 1.41 ) and then headed for Fontanellato area da sosta. Last year , we followed directions posted on www.motorhomefacts.com but this year, I trusted myself to find it and got there much more easily by going off at Fidenza and following signs for Fontanellato. It was about 10 mins from the autostrada and  easy to find. There were two other vans there and some new ‘sheds’ – big metal constructions that surely couldn’t just be for shade? On closer inspection, they housed solar panels- what a good idea. I checked out the facilites and , as last year, the loo emptying place was unusable, the loos were locked but there was fresh water available. It’s a free , convenient stop so I won’t complain but how does the loo thingy get full to the brim when there’s a lever to empty it? I tried the lever but other people’s waste didn’t disappear and I’m no plumber…….

Pete sat out in the sun, then we ate a load of fresh prawns ( Pete couldn’t resist getting them in the supermarket) . We moved down the site a bit as the restaurant was running air conditioning of a generator which was a bit noisy- we had plenty of spaces to choose from.

Day 6 Sassenio Spiaggi, Fano, Italy

It was over 30 degrees last night with no breeze so it took a while to go to sleep. We both woke in the night scratching- three mosquitoes had got in- we’d been careless. Anthisan to the rescue and flyswatter to the kill………We got back on the autostrada at Fidenza ( Fidenza village is a huge retail outlet type shopping area)  in ten minutes and off we went into heavy traffic, especially around Bologna. We watched Italian driving in disbelief- motorbikes using the hard shoulder as their special  lane.  We stopped at Rubicone services for a quick sandwich then headed into Fano. We followed signs for Spiaggi and went over the railway to the camping field we’ve used before. It was heaving! I found us a nice spot at the edge where we had a slight sea view and a slight breeze. It’s seven euros a night. You can get water and there’s a sort of  cold shower behind a curtain but the best bet is to go to the beach shower. Lots of Italians come and park for the day, go across the road to the pebble beach, come back to their vans for lunch and a sleep then go home in the evening. We had a lovely swim and a sit on a sun-baked rock. The Italians in the next van brought a plate of water melon over for us so we returned their plate with some sliced fruit cake on it which was appreciated. S'nice to share...... We went for a walk into Fano to get some money and to look at the lovely town .

driving through Switzerland

beach at Fano

the camping field, Fano

evening in Fano