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Whittingham Beer and sausage festival and Scotland for the not so brave

 Whittingham Beer Festival

No, we'd never heard of it either but friends Phil and Karen had been before so off we went to Whittingham and Goosnargh Social Club near Preston for a weekend. It cost £10 for three nights camping and another £5 for your beer glass and weekend entry to the beer festival. We were  made very welcome at the gate and tried very hard to try as many of the 30 available beers .We ate in the van after drinks. It was quite busy but it was a very well behaved site and quiet during the night.

We had our first bowls game ever as Phil and Karen introduced us to the sport.  I tried some delicious cider and a not so delicious sausage.  There were various bands on during the festival and lots of people having a good time. The site was friendly and there was water and toilets and toilet emptying available. 

Scotland trip.

The Slanj restaurant Tarbet 
Station Road Tarbet. Free overnight.
I'd read about the Slanj being welcoming for motorhomers  so after stopping at Morrisons in Carlisle for a diesel fill and shopping,  we headed up to Loch Lomond.  I had emailed the Slanj to see if it was okay to stop and got an email back almost straight away.  We parked up and Tom the young manager came over to talk to us. He was very friendly . We had a walk then came back for something to eat. The waitress was new and also friendly. It has mixed reviews on Trip Adviser and I can see why. If it was busy and bustling with a band on, it would  be very different but it was quiet. We talked to Tom later about the food. I was honest and he seemed to appreciate it  and while I would stop there again, I wouldn't  have the 'pie' which was a filling, microwaved unevenly with a slice of pastry stuck on the top. The chips were great.  The guy is obviously finding his feet with the business and I wish him good luck. It was pricey for what we had but a good place to spend a night.


 Sheiling Campsite Craignure, Mull
This is where the title 'Scotland for the not so brave' started because Pete told me he wasn't sure of how much gas we'd got and we would have to be brave to risk losing a freezer and fridge full of stuff if we wild camped and the gas ran out! As we are changing vans soon and getting a different gas system, he didn't want to buy another cylinder.
I had read about lots of lovely places to stay on the very friendly Scottish Motorhome Wildcampers group on Facebook so I was keen to search some places out but the possible lack of gas made me wary....I didn't want to be cold with my fridge not working.
Thanks to a suggestion on that page, we bought a CalMac hopscotch ticket for ferries to Mull, Mull to Ardnamurchan Peninsula then Mallaig to Skye. It was a good suggestion.


We got to Oban in time to see friends Andy and Carol's van on the ferry that was leaving the harbour. We bought a quick crab sandwich and were on the next ferry across. Other people on the ferry must have thought we were daft , waving like mad people as we approached Craignure but we could see our friends already set up on the campsite waving madly back.




 We got a front row parking spot and sat in the sunshine catching up.  While Pete and Andy went to see reception to see the guy there, Carol and I saw otters! It was so exciting and I just managed to grab my camera. When the guys got back they didn't believe us, so it was lucky I had something to show them.

 We could also see Ben Nevis with the top covered in snow from our pitch as well as watching the ferries coming and going.


The next day was also sunny . We walked around the headland and saw a seal. After lunch, we went on the bikes to Duart Castle through a woodland way that the lady in the tourist office had told us about.  After a welcome cuppa and scones we sat in the sun while Andy and Carol went inside the castle and they came back and told us the stories of the castle. I saw another otter.




 Carol cooked us a Scottish breakfast for dinner....while it was great, we decided that it really was meant to be eaten in the morning so you could work all the calories off in the day. So after Rennies, we watched a beautiful sunset.







We had to move from our front row pitch - there is a somewhat strange booking system but it was okay. So we moved to pitch 19  and Andy rented a car for two days from Billy the undertaker. Yes, really. It was all a bit Greek.....but Billy and the car were there for Andy to collect and off we went down the single track road to Ffionphort through the most amazing scenery- bright green spruced up spruces and green and brown hills past Ben More. 


We got the ferry over to Iona ( £3.30 each return)  We had lunch overlooking the sea. We walked around the nunnery and museum marveling at the weather, the blue sea, blue sky, white beaches and how lovely it was. We watched a group of people clustered around a garden then had to ask what they were looking at. It turned out to be a corn crake- rare around here and we saw it too. 







Heading back towards Craignure, we stopped because we could see two otters playing about not far from shore. It's impossible to tear yourself away from watching these creatures. We turned down another little road to Lochbuie where there is a little old post office with an honesty box for tea and coffee. The road was very narrow but there were three small motorhomes parked down there.......too scary for us to do......not so brave! We had a meal in the Craignure Hotel and the food was surprisingly good. We sat outside the van till sunset.




We set off for another drive around  Mull. We drove to Salen then west to Killiechronan stopping where possible to take photos of the amazing views. We saw lots of motorhomes even though the road was narrow, luckily we met the bus in a good passing place. We stopped at Calgary Bay where the beautiful white sand and turquoise sea reminded us so much of Greece. Carol even went in the sea..up to her knees. The road back to Dervaig was quite windy and narrow so I didn't envy the motorhome drivers we passed. 


We went into the yellow pub Minchninch for a lunch of mussels then had icecream walking past the multicoloured houses.  Andy and Carol went to have a taste in the Ledaig whisky distillery.  We had another good meal in the van and watched yet another super sunset. 

The next day was cooler and cloudier so we did some van jobs Pete cycled for bread and we had a day around the site. Andy and Carol packed up ready to get the ferry tomorrow.

We did yet another pitch move- it's no trouble but maybe the site needs to sort out the bookings.  We had coffee with Andy and Carol before they went to catch the ferry and we watched  their ferry sail off.  We had a lazy day and a tv catch up.

Portnadoran campsite Arisaig
We left the very full site and drove to Tobermory where we joined the queue for the small ferry to Kilchoan. We did a little bit of shopping in the local Co-op then went across the very calm Loch Sheil. 



It was a beautiful drive along the Ardnamurchan peninsula  where a deer hopped across in front of the car and we could see a stag near the fence. There were rhododendrons in flower with huge pink blooms, gorse glowing yellow,  bluebells nesting in every shady spot and primroses sunning on the banks.  


We hadn't really decided where to go to stay but pulled in to Portnadoran  camp site just outside of Arisaig and were welcomed there. We pitched up with a beautiful view of the sea and views over to Eigg and Skye. More turquoise sea and silver sand and sun. It is quite unbelievable...and not a midge in sight.


We decided to walk back to Arisaig  but after a while, I realised that it was too far and we turned back. I was aching a lot so we went back and sat in the sun again and the good hot shower soothed the aches. 

The weather forecast for the day showed cloud on Skye so we stayed put. We had a walk along to Silver Sands and sat for ages watching oyster catchers and the sea. Pete went walkabout climbing on rocks and generally scuttling about while I sat ...and sat....




In the morning, we tried to book a campsite on Skye but it was full.....several around here are very busy too. It was not as easy to get a booking on the ferry from Mallaig to Skye either- also busy. We got booked on to the 2pm. We drove into Mallaig and parked on the east harbour as the car park was closed for repairs. We watched the 'Jacobite' steam train blowing great clouds of smoke into the air at the station. 





There is no parking at the actual ferry as they have only enough room for the vehicles waiting to board. We used the last part of our Hopscotch ticket  and we saw seals as we approached Armadale. There were glimpses of sunshine  as we drove the very scenic road up to Portree. The campsite guy was very welcoming and gave us a bus timetable . We chose a pitch right away from the reception and we were so lucky to be able to watch the buzzards who had a nest in the trees close by. After a cuppa we walked down the hill into Portree- it took me 25 mins at  my snail's pace.




We had a drink at the Portree hotel then went into the Royal hotel where we ate...bit of a mistake!Never mind, we went down to the harbour and then listened to a pipe band in the square before going back up the hill in a taxi ( lazy but necessary £4.70).

We set off for a trip around the island in the van. It was fab!  We parked at the Old Man of Storr and were so happy to watch four golden eagles soaring. We parked and walked at Tote  then again past Brogaig where we had lunch watching the sea. 







We also stopped at Dunvegan- there was a chip van in the car park. It was hot so we didn't go in the castle. It was such a good drive round- the scenery is fantastic.  We treated ourselves to a lovely meal in the Portree hotel where I listened to live music and Pete watched the football ( sound off) ..perfect!


The campsite has good emptying and filling facilities for motorhomes  and good showers. 

Crossing back to the mainland was also a beautiful drive.  We followed the train line along the Kyle of Lochalsh towards Lochcarron- we'd travelled on the train here one winter but it was nicer in sunshine.



  Broomfield site in Ullapool was our next stop. It's a lovely spot especially  as we had a front row spot with amazing views. 



We went to the Ferry Inn then had ice cream from the chip shop!  We sat outside the  Arch  pub talking to two of the crew of the Olympus tall ship that was in the harbour. 

 I had my coffee fix and Pete had good beer in the Ferry Inn


 The sunset was absolutely amazing- I couldn't stop taking photos.  The site itself is fairly basic  but the views make up for  anything. There's loads of sunset photos to follow.....feel free to scroll past  fast











Despite rain in the night we decided to stay another night and we had another wander round , went into little shops, shared fish and chips and had a lazy day. The gas ran out so it will be one pot meals for the rest of the trip on the electric ring. We watched the Tall ship set sail too....



A visit to friends:
We drove up and around via Bonar Bridge to Alness. The single track roads didn't seem to bother Pete and he enjoyed the driving. The route was very quiet and beautiful and the weather was just as nice on the east coast. It was so good to meet Marje and Mike again. We had met them years ago on a campsite in Greece. They were so welcoming and unchanged  after four years.  We went out for a lovely meal and saw a hare sitting in the road as we ate.


The time went all too quickly but we will see them again in Greece.
We left with a pot of Marje's plum jam and a loaf.  We drove down the A9 and it seemed hugely busy after the little roads we had been on. We stopped at Kinross services then drove over the Firth of Forth comparing the new bridge with the bridge at Rion, near Patras in Greece- it's the same design.



We had a really nice welcome at Mortenhall campsite on the south side of Edinburgh. It is a nice well set out site .  We walked around the site and had a drink in the Stable bar where we ate some good food with good service later.




We have never driven along the coast from Edinburgh so off we went via Musselburgh, Prestonpans  and North Berwick where we thought about staying but headed on to Berwick where we have been before.






The campsite warden was helpful and told us which pitches were best for the 7 m van. We had good sea views. We walked into Berwick and had a little wander then an historic moment occurred- Pete used his bus pass for the first time! We got the bus back to the site as my legs were tired. We had another walk in the next day stopping at a favourite pub Barrels.  Pet had the worst crab sandwich ever from a deli but we had salted caramel icecream from the Loovre- formerly ladies loos.

I have seen more bluebells this trip than I have ever seen!



The next day we drove down to Mam's in Newcastle to do some jobs before heading home after a super holiday.



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